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Thursday, October 18, 2012

Butternut Squash and Apple Risotto


The butter had been melted.  The shallot had been added, and was wonderfully soft.  The rosemary and sage gave off their woodsy scents.  Garlic was emitting its pungent fragrance.  It was time to add the rice.  So I measured out the rice and stirred it into the onion and butter mixture, letting the rice get all toasty in a quick herbal butter bath before adding the white wine.

Then I noticed something strange.  I had poured in long-grain brown rice?  How did this even get into the cupboard, let alone get into my pan?  I must have purchased it up by mistake.  Do not make the same mistake I did.  I gave it a chance, trying to cook it for a bit, praying that somehow a risotto would force its way out of this mixture.  A risotto did not emerge.  I guess it could have, if I had given it about a year to cook.  So yeah, do not mistakenly grab long-grain brown rice at the grocery store than grab it from your cupboard to make risotto.

I had to restart the whole thing, of course.

Ingredients 
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large shallot, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 sprig rosemary, needles removed and chopped
1 tablespoon chopped sage leaves, plus more for garnish
1 1/2 cups Arborio or medium-grain rice
smoked sea salt, to taste
ground white pepper, to taste
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 cups chicken stock
1 1/2 cups butternut squash puree
2 Granny Smith apples, cored
1/2 cup toasted pinenuts, for garnish

Note: I roasted a whole butternut squash in a 425 degree oven for about 90 minutes to 2 hours, then scooped out the seeds and stringy parts and ran the flesh through a food processor.
To toast the pinenuts, I place in a dry skillet over medium high heat and toss until they have developed a golden brown color (about 4 minutes).  

Instructions 
In a medium pot over medium heat, keep the chicken broth warm.  Melt butter in a large saute pan.  Add the shallot, rosemary, and sage.  Once the onion has softened (about 4 minutes), add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, til fragrant.  Add the rice.  Stir the rice and let the butter coat the rice.  Sprinkle a bit of salt and pepper.  Pour in the white wine and stir the rice.  Once the rice has absorbed the wine, add in a ladleful (about 2/3 cup) of chicken stock.  Stir and let the rice absorb the stock.  Once it has absorbed it, add the next ladleful, and keep repeating.  Be sure to stir frequently.  Once the rice has cooked, stir in butternut squash puree.  Grate the apples into the risotto and stir.  Top with toasted pinenuts.

The Epicurious Cookbook & MyRecipes America's Favorite Recipes


Despite the popularity of recipe websites, we enjoy printed cookbooks too much to dismiss them. Fortunately two big website publishers have compiled cookbooks that are truly stellar in some ways marrying the best of both worlds. They not only share their top rated recipes, but give use quotes and tips from readers and reviewers. The result is cherry picked recipes with plenty of reader insight. 




The Epicurious Cookbook has over 250 "four fork" recipes that are tried and true. There are plenty of photographs, though not for every single recipe. The recipes are from magazines including Gourmet and Bon Appetit, as well as members. The headnotes for the recipes are particularly helpful, making serving, storage, and even substitution suggestions. The recipes have a certain practicality to them, as the back cover says "recipes you'll make again and again." There are also recipes from beloved chefs like Dorie Greenspan, Alfred Portale and Tom Colicchio. The photography is often elegant and have a consistent style (yes, more weathered wood finished backgrounds...) I love the sound of Eggplant Lasagna with Parsley Pesto, Beet and Carrot Pancakes and Mahogany Chicken (glazed in a soy, mirin and ginger sauce). The only thing I don't like about this book? The recipes are organized seasonally. Calling granola a Winter breakfast just seems dumb to me. There is no good reason not to make it and eat it all year long. Perhaps in some parts of the country this is helpful, but not in California where seasons overlap and are not always so distinct. 



MyRecipes America's Favorite Food culls recipes from magazines including CookingLight, RealSimple and Sunset. It has 200 recipes all highly rated and tested. If you are the kind of person who prefers photos with every recipe, you will be happy with this book. If you are the kind of person who likes to read helpful headnotes, you will be disappointed, because there are none. There are some tips now and again, but more often there are symbols prompting you to scan a photo with your smart phone. Once you do that, you might get more recipes or a technique video. I'm a little bewildered. I use my phone for recipes, but not while I am reading a cookbook. It's an attempt to "bridge the digital divide" but frankly, it seems a little gimmicky to me.  I like that they tell you where the recipes come from, something the Epicurious book does not do. Recipes that peaked my interest include Brandied Cranberry Short Rib Stew, Pasta with Asparagus, Pancetta, and Pine Nuts and Red Lentil Rice Cakes with Simple Tomato Salsa. 

Both of these books have really great recipes, so which one is right for you? It depends on where you generally turn for recipes. I actually think the Epicurious book has more interesting vegetarian recipes and more creative recipes in general, and the MyRecipes book has more healthy options. I've bookmarked more in the Epicurious cookbook but that's not surprising since it's my go-to recipe site. Have you seen these books yet? Let me know which one you like best.