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Friday, October 22, 2010

Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon?



Who among us doesn't love good mustard? French, coarse, honey, yellow...you name it, there are millions of flavors and brands on the market, some better than others. Just imagine, a beautiful corned beef on dark rye, slathered with spicy brown deli-mustard or..........oh, sorry, I was drifting off into a deluxe hot dog fantasy.

But, before I get into this wonderful recipe, I have to give mad props and a shout out to the sources that inspired me to stay home on a Friday night to make mustard - really, who does that? It all started with a Facebook post by David Lebovitz, a food blogger living in Paris, who along with his own awesome foodie adventures, often posts links to other bloggers who are doing insanely cool things. The link led me to Hank Shaw's blog, honest-food, which I consider to be the zenith, the apex - no, the sick-nastiest foodie blog I've come across...possibly ever.

Here's how the mustard deal went down......and once you realize how easy it is to make, you'll be down too.

Start with a nice clean jar - it doesn't need to be a mason jar - any kind that has a tight seal will do. I just happen to like the way these look, and since I have a thing for glass, I tend to collect all kinds of interesting containers to decant stuff into. I know, don't say it - I stay in Friday nights to make mustard and I collect glass containers - I'm a freak - there, I said it.
 You can use a little coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle to grind the seeds, but I like my mustard coarse, so I opted for the old fashioned way - plus, I really, really, really like this tool.
 Grind the mustard seeds up - making sure to leave plenty whole.
 Okay - besides glass, I love. Love, LOVE salt. This is coarse sea salt.

 I used this lovely raw honey to sweeten up the mustard from  Kirk Webster, a Vermont bee keeper - Rock on Kirk!
p.s. Thanks for the gift Bill&Kat
I used straight up golden sherry because I love the rich flavor
 I had chives in my garden, so I used those - just snipped 'em up and blended them in
There she is - my lovely jar of mustard that will now sit for 24 hours before I can use it. I'm already planning to use it on a ham, a mongo deli-style sandwich and salad dressing.

Mustard - Makes about 1 cup (Recipe adapted from honest-food)

  • 5-6 Tbsp. mustard seeds
  • 1/2 cup mustard powder
  • 3 Tbsp. vinegar (cider, white wine or sherry) - I used straight up sherry
  • 1/2 cup white wine or water (I used both)
  • 2 tsp. salt

Optional

  • 2 Tbsp. honey
  • 2 Tbsp. grated horseradish
  • 1/4 cup minced fresh herbs (anything you like)

1. Grind the whole mustard seeds for a few seconds in a spice or coffee grinder, or by hand with a mortar and pestle. You want the seeds to remain mostly whole because you are using mustard powder too.
2. Pour the semi-ground seeds into a bowl and add the salt and mustard powder. If using, add one or more of the optional ingredients too.
3. Pour in the vinegar and wine or water, then stir well. When everything is incorporated, pour into a glass jar and store in the fridge. Wait at least 24 hours before using. Keeps for several months in the fridge.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Day 71! Honduras - How 'bout a Road Trip to HMart? Spicy Curry Conch Chowder - Up Next, Hungary

Exotic Curry Conch Chowder




Yes! I found conch!! But wait - not only that, I discovered a whole new shopping galaxy known as HMart  and nothing, I mean NOTHING could have prepared me for the...the...volume, variety and sensory-overloadness of this Asian market experience. 

Picture, if you will, a BJ's-sized store packed full of every possible type of exotic produce, seafood, meat, noodles, rice, spices and virtually anything needed for Asian cooking, including a huge selection of dishes, cooking utensils and gadgets. 

So about Honduras and tonight's meal...Curry Conch Chowder
Located in Central America, Honduras is bordered by Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua. Honduras' cuisine is a fusion of African, Indigenous and Spanish flavors. Interestingly, this country uses more coconut in sweet and savory dishes than any other Central American country. Papaya, plums, pineapples, soups, seafood, roasted meats and rice & beans are all enjoyed by Hondurans.

 Not just any conch - oh no baby, these are Baby Conch - sweet and tender

 That's right, I got to use my grinder to mince them up - is this not the most badass rig ever??!!
 Look at that - a simple disk attachment, a crank of the handle and presto - beautifully minced baby conch
 Bay leaves. I took the picture because I love this jar (.50 at a yard sale) and the camera saw a psychedelic image -viva the 60's - I can't help it - I'm from Cambridge.
 A lovely twist to the chowder - curry powder mixed with cream - I used Jamaican curry because I love the yellow color and the rich flavor. Indian curry would have been too dark and would have muddied up the color of the chowder.
Oh, wait - another HMart score - I made these for my son tonight - shazam - they were crazy good!
The Scallion Pancakes - not part of the meal, but they were too pretty not to include
 I couldn't decide whether to serve corn or flour tortillas with the chowder, so I went with both
 Lovely curried cream, blended into the chowder along with sherry at the end
Fantastic and beautiful to look at as well. I loved the combination of conch, curry, cream and tomatoes

Exotic Curry Conch Chowder ( Adapted from Caribbean Recipes from Roatan Honduras)
  • 1 lb. conch
  • 1 large onion
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 1-2 cups conch broth 
  • 4 tomatoes, chopped
  • 2 tsp. curry powder (or more to taste)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 1 pinch thyme
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 Tbsp. butter
  • 1 small can tomato paste
  • 3-4 Tbsp. sherry
  • Fresh chopped parsley for garnish
Grind the conch and boil in water until tender. Reverse cooking water. Fry onion in frying pan with butter until cooked (not browned). Add bay leaves and thyme.Add tomatoes, sugar, conch broth, conch and tomato paste. Simmer until tomatoes are soft. Add cream/curry and sherry and simmer (do not boil) until hot. Serve in bowls, with tortillas and garnished with parsley.

Final Assessment: This was a wonderful dish. I'd never had conch before. They're not that different from sea clams and the combination of tomatoes, curry and cream was sublime. A+

Why do YOU cook, Vanessa Barrington?

Vanessa Barrington
There are lots of books out right now about canning and preserving and making all kinds of things from scratch. So how is D.I.Y. Delicious. different? It's written by Vanessa Barrington, a talented cook and writer, who figured out how to make stuff on her own, in a real home kitchen. It's filled with recipes for everyday things you will get excited to make yourself when you see how easy most of the recipes are. Soon you'll be making mustard, yogurt, pickles, horchata, crackers and more.

The book also features recipes for using many of the things you'll learn to make. So after you learn to make Creme Fraiche (pg. 116) you can make Artichoke Soup with Creme Fraiche (pg.119). It also includes lots of cool ideas you probably haven't considered before like Savory Porridge with an egg and cheddar cheese or Pulled Pork Canapes with fig rosemary jam.

Vanessa Barrington is creative, socially conscious and just plain fun. She's a talented writer, recipe developer, and coincidentally a terrific conference roommate. So, why does she cook?

"The simplest answer is that I don’t know how NOT to. I feel more like myself in the kitchen than I do anywhere else. Sometimes it’s the only thing that makes any sense to me, especially during times of emotional upheaval, national strife, (elections/terrorist attacks/the televised aftermath of hurricanes) or on ordinary bad days. Even on a good day spent in front of my computer answering emails and writing all day, nothing feels so good as pulling out a cutting board and knife, and beginning the soothing work of chopping.

It wasn’t always like that. In fact, there have been periods in my life when I didn’t really like food. As a kid, I was a picky eater. I’d sit at the dinner table for hours, after everyone else went out to play, rather than eat the gray, overcooked pork chop and the canned peas on my plate.

When I started working in the restaurant business in my 20s, a whole new world opened up to me and I realized that I wasn’t really picky, just discerning. I started out by trying to recreate the dishes I served to customers. I had no idea of technique, but usually the results were somewhat ok. I was good at figuring things out. Eventually I taught myself how to cook.

These days, I’m not so much into restaurant food. Of course I go out and I do enjoy it. Occasionally I even have a meal that bowls me over. But what I like best is just poking around in the refrigerator, the garden, and the farmers’ market, figuring out what I want to eat, and then perhaps calling a friend to share it with me. I cook because I really like my own cooking and feel healthiest when I cook for myself. At the end of even the most delicious vacations, I can’t wait to get home and cook something simple to eat."

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Keys To Good Cooking by Harold McGee: Book Review

Keys to Good Cooking
I love Harold McGee's classic tome, On Food and Cooking. I turn to it often when doing research for posts or articles I'm writing. But it's not the best book when I'm looking for practical advice. McGee's latest book, The Keys to Good Cooking is a bit like On Food and Cooking, only for dummies. Keys To Good Cooking is nothing BUT practical advice. And there is no book that I know of that answers quite as many questions about selecting ingredients, cooking and food storage.

The book is a reference guide, not a cookbook. While it might be good to read the whole book the truth is, you are going to turn to various sections when you are cooking and the book is organized to make that easy. For example turn to the Sauces, Stocks and Soups to learn why you may not want to make mayonnaise with all olive oil or go to the Fruit section to learn why European plums are best for baking. My only quibble is that from time to time I would like a little more information, for example McGee says to rinse poultry thoroughly before cooking, but doesn't answer the question why? I've read rinsing is more likely to lead to cross-contamination and that any bacteria will be destroyed by heat during cooking. Though I suppose you have to draw the line somewhere, if McGee is a proponent of rinsing, I want to know why.

Some of the most helpful sections I've come across so far are the ones on cooking temperatures and which are most desirable for different cuts of meat, the explanation of differences between Asian, European and American pine nuts and guidelines that address how long you can store certain ingredients. I also learned which types of bread will keep for a few days--levain and sourdough because of their acidity. Did you know you can store miso indefinitely in the refrigerator? Good to know! As is almost everything in this new indispensable cooking reference guide.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Whoa - Look what I dug up whilst cleaning out the woodshed! I know you wanna know...


How cool is this? While cleaning out "my" corner of the woodshed today I found a beautiful old manual food grinder I'd forgotten about.


I bought it for $2.00 at my local Senior Center yard sale about 3 years ago, tucked it away and that was the end of it until now. I distinctly remember it catching my eye on a table full of knick-knacks, candle sticks and crocheted pot holders.
 
As soon as I picked it up, I immediately loved the weight of the solid heavy metal (the thing must weigh 7 pounds) - "Sargent" and "Made in USA" embossed on the steel. And, as an unexpected bonus, there were 4 disk attachments taped to the worn wooden handle of the grinder.

Lastly, it's a beautiful "simple machine" - wooden handle, gears, and a blade. It takes a little more work than my Cuisinart, but you get a much better texture from the hand crank and disks than the very fine mince you get from pulsing the blade of food processor. I'm going to use this for the first time to mince conch for Honduran Conch Soup I'm planning for later on this week. YAY!

Potluck Posts 10/17

Kohlrabi
If things have seemed a little quiet around here, it's because I've been busy traveling, writing and developing recipes. Since many of you have asked, each week I will be sharing links to recipes and posts I have written. Thanks for your interest and enjoy the Potluck Posts!

Last month I was in Switzerland and this month I had a quick trip to Wisconsin to visit cheesemakers and dairies and to eat cheese; my thanks to the trip sponsor, Wisconsin Cheese. You'll be hearing more about the trip and my discoveries soon. For now, let me just say, it was wonderful. Those kohlrabi are from the Dane County Farmers Market in Madison, Wisconsin, and the picture is in honor of one of my new friends, Greg of Sippity Sup, who I met on the trip.

In between my trips, I had the pleasure of hearing the very inspiring chef Rene Redzepi of restaurant Noma speak. My post on Rene Redzepi and Noma, is on EpiLog. Also on EpiLog are my posts on Savoring Sichuan Peppercorns, Hot Fresh Cookie Cookbooks, Preserving Heirloom Tomatoes and Wine Tasting Snacks.

Meanwhile on Between Bites at Frommers.com, you'll find my post on Half Moon Bay for the Day.

Recent recipes I developed for MyWinesDirect are a super easy and delicious Pork Tenderloin Crostini with Camembert and Cranberry Sauce that pairs with an elegant Crianza Spanish Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon and a Three Cheese Manicotti.

UPCOMING
Look for my post on Harold McGee's latest book, The Keys to Good Cooking here, on Tuesday, October 19th.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Day 70! Haiti - Conch Fritters with Watercress Dip - Subbbbblime - Up Next, Honduras



It took me four stores, but I finally got the watercress. Yet try as I might, I could not find conch in canned, frozen or fresh form. So, although I do my best to stay true to authentic ingredients, I had to opt for fresh chopped clams as a conch substitute for tonight's wonderful Haitian meal of conch fritters with watercress dip.

Located on the Western half the Islands of Hispaniola which it shares with the Dominican Republic, Haiti was the first nation in Latin America to claim independent governance during a slave rebellion in 1804. Haiti is also one of the poorest countries in the Americas and has been besieged by relentless political violence, corruption, poverty, the AIDS epidemic and most recently a 7.0 magnitude earthquake in which 230,000 people died. Today, the country continues to struggle to rebuild.

Although Haitian food has many similarities to Caribbean cooking, it is unique in it's Creole and French influences, favoring hot peppers as a seasoning. Starches such as rice, corn millet, yams, beans, plantains and tropical fruits are all enjoyed by Haitians.

This meal is dedicated to Mirlande - artist, singer and activist whom I am privileged to call my friend. Check our her life's work, the Eritaj Foundation  as well as her beautiful music - www.sonicbids.com/mirlande



 Peppers for tonight's meal, generously given to me by my awesome friend and neighbor, Mayor Blair
 A lovelier site than fresh watercress I have rarely seen - I may have to write an ode to watercress...
 The dip couldn't be easier - everything goes into the blender -salt is optional, but I am forever a salt girl
 Voila - la couleur est incroiable!
 I love all the fresh vegetables and colors that go into the fritters - tasty and beautiful
 Freshly chopped clams (I bought 'em that way - I did not have time for shucking and such)

All fried up - drain and cool on paper towels
There we are - a wonderful meal of conch (clam) fritters with watercress dip!

Conch Fritters (Recipe adapted from the Caribbean Choice)

1-1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 -1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 cup finely chopped green bell pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped red bell pepper
1/2 small white onion, diced finely
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
1/2 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded, minced
1/4-1/2 cup milk
3/4 pound chopped conch (I used clams)
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 cup vegetable oil for frying

Dip

1/2 bunch watercress
1 small bunch parsley
1 small green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 Scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and chopped
1 Tbsp. wine or balsamic vinegar (I used balsamic)
1/2 small yellow onion, chopped
1 or 2 cloves garlic, chopped

To Make Dip:

Combine all ingredients in blender; process until smooth. Refrigerate dip until ready to serve.

To make Fritters:

In large bowl, mix flour and baking powder. Add the bell peppers, onions, garlic, parsley, thyme and Scotch bonnet pepper. Stir in milk; beat batter well. Stir in chopped conch or clams, salt and black pepper.(Ideally, batter should rest in refrigerator for 2 hours or overnight to achieve the right non-sticky consistency). In a deep skillet or electric fryer, heat oil to 375F. Using a slotted spoon, remove fritters; transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve with dip on separate bowl.

Final Assessment:  This was a great dish. Served with a salad it's a meal, served alone, it's an awesome appetizer. If I could have found conch, it might have been even better....but the clams were pretty damn good! Oh, and the flavor of the watercress dip, combined with the hot peppers was hot and cool at the same time - lovely!