Day 78! Ireland - Royal Hibernian Brown Bread - Up Next, Israel

What to cook for the beautiful country of Ireland from whence many of my relatives came? Known for such wonderful things such as lyric song and poetry, great beer, hospitality, rugby and an emerald country-side, Ireland (perhaps somewhat unfairly), is not known for it's culinary chops. But don't despair, Ireland does produce some pretty amazing bread, and brown soda bread just happens to be the country's national loaf.

 

To find the perfect brown bread recipe, I turned to two of my favorite bread cook books: a dog-eared copy of  Beard on Bread, by none other than James Beard and another extremely comprehensive bread bible, Bernard Clayton's New Complete Book of Breads. Both revered bakers and authors, their brown bread recipes differ slightly, Clayton's adding sugar, butter and an egg to create a lovely rich loaf of brown soda bread that is served up in Dublin's Royal Hibernian Hotel. In my world, anything with butter in it pretty much trumps everything, so I went with Clayton's version, but James Beard's simple recipe is wonderful as well.

Located in Northwest Continental Europe,  Ireland is divided into the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, the likes of which have been embroiled in cultural and religious clashes for hundreds of years. Ireland's culinary traditions are influenced by it's temperate growing climate, and is best known for the potato, which was introduced in the the second half of the 6th century. The country is also known for excellent beef, which it exports world wide. Irish stew, bacon, cabbage and baked goods are the hallmarks of Irish cuisine.

Sea salt adds a lovely crunchy texture to the crust

Butter is worked in by hand until the texture resembles soft breadcrumbs

Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf 

Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf (Adapted from The Complete Book of Breads)

(one round loaf)

• 2 1/2 cups whole wheat four, stone ground if possible
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, approximately
• 2 Tbsp. sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, room temperature
• 1 egg
• 1 1/4 cups buttermilk (or 5 Tbsp. butter mild powder plus 1 1/4 cups water), room temperature

1 baking sheet, greased or Teflon

Preheat oven to 400F 20 minutes before baking.

1. In a bowl mix together all of the dry ingredients. With your fingers, work in the butter until it is absorbed by the fl9our, and the mixture resembles tiny, soft breadcrumbs.
2. Make a well in the center of the mixture. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the egg and stir in the milk. Gradually pour the egg-milk mixture into the well, mixing first with a spoon and then by hand until it forms a stiff dough.
3. Lift the dough from the bowl and place on a lightly floured work surface. Work the dough with your hands a dough knife to thoroughly blend all the ingredients. Do not knead. The butter in the dough will make it easy to work without sticking to the work surface or the hands. Sprinkle with flour if it sticks.
4. Shape into a plump round ball. Pat down the top slightly, and with a knife or razor blade, cut a 1/2" deep cross on the top.
5. Place the loaf on the baking sheet, and bake until it has browned and has opened dramatically along the cuts, about 45 minutes.
6. Remove the bread from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool before cutting into thin slices.

Final Assessment: A beautiful, hearty bread that's full of flavor and insanely easy to make - no yeast, no proofing....not problem. Slather it up with butter and call it breakfast, a snack or an accompaniment to soup, salad or a main course.

 

Meat Cookbooks

Vegetarians, avert your eyes, now! This year there are several cookbooks dedicated to cooking meat. If you are like me, you are eating less meat, but being more particular about what you consume. I no longer buy meat at the supermarket. I am too haunted by images of factory farming. But I am still eating meat and while it makes up less of the plate, the few days a week I do cook it, I want it to be as deliciously satisfying as possible. Each of the following books are written by James Beard award-winners who know their stuff. Their recipes work, their writing is clear and their knowledge unassailable.

James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes.

The most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes.

The smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.

Day 77! Iraq -Beef with Fruit and Rice- لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس

لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس - Beef with Fruit and Rice

With everything we know about the ancient country of Iraq, what do we really know about it's food? Mostly, we in the U.S. hear about the war, efforts to rebuild a country whose long history of unrest has kept it's people oppressed and on-going political, ethnic and religious unrest. But regardless of cultural differences and beliefs, people come together to share a simple meal, or to honor the month of Ramadan. Tonight's meal celebrates this beautiful country and brings a small window of insight to our family's dinner table.

Interestingly, all of the research I did prior to making tonight's meal seems to be in agreement that Iraqi food is primarily influenced by it's neighbors, Turkey and Iran and doesn't, apparently, have a cuisine that it claims as it's own. I can't be absolutely certain that this is true, so if there are readers out there who can speak more authoritatively on Iraqi cuisine and it's culture, I'd love to hear from you.

Located in southwestern Asia, in the Middle East, Iraq's country is primarily dry and is relatively inhospitable to most plants except date palms, and produces nearly 80% of the world's dates. Iraqi's enjoy dates as snacks, in cooking paired with meat or poultry and in dishes served during the religious fast of Ramadan.

Dried apricots, prunes and apples

Like much Middle Eastern cuisine, Iraqi cooking often combines fruit with beef and chicken. Wheat, barely rice, goat, lamb, kababs and pickled vegetables as well as yogurt and stuffed vegetables are also enjoyed. Because 95% of Iraqis are Muslim (roughly 54%  Shi'ite and 41% Sunni), alcohol is forbidden.

Beef with Fruit and Rice: لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس
(Adapted from a recipe in Food in Every Country)

• 1 cup dried prunes, pits removed
• 1 cup dried apples
• 1 cup dried apricots
• 1 small onion, roughly chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 pounds beef, cut into cubes (chicken can be substituted)
• 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
• 1 Tbsp. sugar
• 1 Tbsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. pepper
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1/3 cup tomato sauce
• 4 cups cooked rice

1. Place the dried fruits in a separate bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let sit for about 15 minutes, then drain.
2. In a frying pan, heat the oil and saute the onions and garlic until soft.
3. Add beef and saute until browned.
4. Add the runes and cook on low, uncovered for 10 minutes.
5. Add the apples, apricots, seasonings and tomato sauce.
6. Stir well and cook uncovered for another 10 minutes. Serve hot over rice.

Final Assessment: This was a GREAT meal. The combination of fruit and meat, seasoned with cinnamon and just a little tomato sauce was savory, sweet and delicious. Not a drop left!

Boss Brownies - and I'm not talkin' Bruce Springsteen

Dutch Process High Fat Cocoa: Seriously, there's nothing in my pantry that sounds better than this...except maybe a lovely bottle of Italian red wine I'm saving for just the right meal.

But since I'm in the mood for chocolate, my son is begging me for something chocolaty and I just happen to have said Dutch Process High Fat Cocoa  from Penzeys on hand,  I set out to find a recipe that would yield a perfect batch of soft, chewy brownies with that glossy "crust" top, slightly bittersweet and rich, but without that cloying sweetness that makes me grit my teeth.

Milder and mellower in flavor than unsweetened cocoa powder, Dutch-process cocoa also dissolves easily in liquid. The butter, sugar and cocoa in this recipe are melted over simmering water until smooth and shinny. Next eggs are added one at a time and blended until the batter turns glossy.

Here's a recipe adapted from Epicurious that fits the bill and then some.

Boss Cocoa Brownies

• 10 Tablespoons unsalted sweet butter
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 34 cups plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened  Dutch-process cocoa powder 
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon pure Madagascar vanilla extract
• 2 cold large eggs
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (optional)

1. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325 F. Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with foil or parchment paper, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.
2. Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa and salt in a medium heatproof blow and set the bowl in t wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot enough that you want to remove your finger quickly after dipping it in to test. Remove the bowl from the skillet and set aside briefly until the mixture is only warm, not hot.
3. Stir in the vanilla with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one. When the batter looks thick, shiny and well blended, add the four and stir until you can't see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes wit the wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Stir in the nuts, if using,. Spread evenly in the lined pan.
4. Bake until a toothpick plunged into the center emerges slightly moist with batter, 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack. If you cut it too soon, it'll be too gooey (which we did because we couldn't wait)
5. Lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 15 or 25 squares.

Winter Cobb Salad:Recipe

Last year I had the pleasure of having breakfast with Michael Symon at a demo that he did at Williams-Sonoma. From recipes in his cookbook, Michael Symon's Live to Cook, he made creamy scrambled eggs with goat cheese, potato pancakes and of course, plenty of bacon. Michael Symon loves bacon, it features prominently in many of his recipes.

The next best thing to eating Michael Symon's food, is seeing him cook, so you can replicate his recipes at home. Right now you can see a number of videos with Michael Symon at EatWisconsinCheese.com, where he demonstrates some very interesting techniques. For example, he makes gnocchi that is cooked in a pan, with no need to parboil.

I'm always looking for more salad recipes and I like his version with arugula, apples, radishes and Wisconsin blue cheese. Symon's salad is a side dish, but with just a couple more additions, it actually makes a great main dish. To the salad I added crunchy jicama, creamy avocado, toasted walnuts and in honor of Symon, smoky bacon. The result is a very substantial "Cobb" style entree salad, with rows of seasonal ingredients. I'm not going to lie to you, while not hard to make, this salad does take a fair amount of time to prepare, but it is absolutely worth it. Even the least enthusiastic salad eater will love it.

Winter Cobb Salad
Serves 4, as a main dish

Ingredients

1 shallot, minced, about a tablespoon
3 Tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 Tablespoon honey
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup radish slices
1 Granny Smith apples, cored and diced
1 avocado, peeled, pitted and diced
1 cup jicama, peeled and diced
6 cups arugula
1 cup Black River blue cheese, crumbled (Buttermilk blue would be good too)
1 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted
6 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled (optional)

Instructions

Dressing
Place shallots and large pinch of kosher salt in mixing bowl. Add vinegar, honey and mustard. Mix. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Taste for seasoning then put in a small pitcher or ramekin for serving.

Salad
Make a bed of arugula on a large serving platter. Place the radishes, apples, avocado, jicama, blue cheese, walnuts and bacon on top of the salad in rows. Serve with the dressing on the side. Alternatively you can create individual servings of the salad if you prefer.

Enjoy!

Day 76! Iran Vegetarian Cauliflower "souffle" - Kookoo-e Gol-e Kalam -نامه گل کلام

 The menu for today's Iranian lunch was decided upon based on what I had in the house. I knew I wanted to cook something vegetarian, so when I came across this recipe for Kookoo-e Gol-e Kalam (Vegetarian Cauliflower souffle), I was thrilled that the Pantry Goddess was so obliging.

Quite similar to the Italian frittata, Kookoo-e Gol-e Kalam is an egg-based dish that can be cooked on the stove or baked in the oven. Vegetables, in this case cauliflower, are added to make a filling and easy vegetarian meal that could satisfy even the most rabid carnivore.


Known as Persia until 1935, Iran is located in Central Eurasia and Western Asia. One of the oldest continueous major civilizations that dates back to 2800 BC, Shia Islam is the country's official religion and Persian it's official language. Iran is bordered by Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Turkey and Iraq.

 Depending on the province and proximity to it's neighboring countries, food traditions and influences vary widely and include kababs, soups, stews, kookoo (vegetable souffles), rice, meats, plums, pomegranates, quince, prunes, apricots and raisins. Saffron, limes, cinnamon and parsley flavor the food, but are generally used in moderation.

 While the original recipe called for boiling the cauliflower, I am currently on a roasted cauliflower bender, and so decided to deviate from the recipe ever so slightly, which yielded very good results. Interestingly, this recipe also called for baking soda, which frankly, I would omit next time, since I think it lends a somewhat bitter taste to the dish, defeating the lovely flavor of saffron and the sweet taste of the cauliflower.

Kookoo-e Gol-e Kalam-نامه گل کلام

Kookee-e Gol-e Kalam (Adapted from an original recipe at the Iranian Chamber of Commerce)

1 small cauliflower
8 large eggs
4/ tsp. saffron
4 Tbsp. olive oil
3/4 tsp. sea salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425
Break cauliflower up into small pieces, drizzle with olive oil and season with sea salt.
Roast for about 15 minutes until cauliflower is golden.
When done, mash cauliflower slightly with a fork.
Beat eggs. Di solve saffron in a bit of hot water and add to eggs.
Heat oil in non-stick pan until hot.
Pour in mixture, flatten surface with back of spoon and place lid on.
Reduce heat and fry for about 10 minutes until Kookoo is cooked.
Cut in 4 pieces (as you would a pie or pizza) and turn over to fry for another 10 minutes.
Serve with salad.

Final Assessment: Pretty good, but I didn't like the addition of the baking soda at all, so I have omitted it from the recipe, which should improve it's standing to VERY good.

Day 75! Indonesia-Udan Pedas (Spicy Shrimp and Green Beans) and Terung Lodeh (Shrimp and Eggplant Soup) with Noodles

If I could eat like this every night, I think I might. Indonesian cuisine has everything I love in food: fresh, crisp vegetables, color, heat, spice and just the right amount of sweetness combined to produce a satisfying yet light meal. Plus, regardless of the presentation, everything always looks spectacular. And, there's nothing fussy about the preparation. A little chopping, a little mashing/grinding with a mortar and pestle, a quick stir fry or simmer and you've got yourself a beautiful meal.

For anyone who's been paying attention to the news, Mount Merapi erupted Thursday night, covering villages within 10 miles of its proximity in ash, killing and devastating villagers in it's wake. It seems like a little bit of a disconnect to be tossing off a breezy blog entry about Indonesian cooking when people in that country are likely going without food tonight...on the other hand, were it not for this project, I wonder if I'd even be paying attention to the sound bites of news we here in the US get. My heart goes out to Indonesians everywhere.

Fascinating in it's geography,  this country in Southeast Asia and Oceania is comprised of 17,500 islands, and is inhabited by 238 million people - the 4th most populated country in world. In addition, Indonesia is home to the largest Muslim population,
the Javanese being the predominate ethnic group.

Equally diverse, Indonesia's cuisine varies greatly by region and cultural traditions and influence. India, the Middle East, China and Europe as well as the Dutch who colonized the archipelago have all contributed their culinary traditions to this beautiful country. It is customary for Indonesians to eat holding a spoon in their right hand and a fork in the left, or to use their hands. Chopsticks are mostly used in food stalls or in regions influenced by Chinese cuisine.

 The combination of shallots, garlic, hot peppers and crushed tomatoes are mashed and ground in a mortar and pestle to create a hot and delicious base for the stir fry. The Indonesian archipelago Maluku Islands, are frequently referred to as the "spice islands" and are known for growing and harvesting mace and nutmeg.

Terung Lodeh - Shrimp and Eggplant Soup

Udang Pedas

Terung Lodeh - Shrimp and Eggplant Soup (Adapted from Asian On Line Recipes)

• 1/2 lb. fresh shrimp  (shelled and deveined)
• 2 tablespoons peanut oil for sauteeing
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1-2 fresh red chilies, seeded and chopped 
• 2 Saun salam (Indonesian bay leaves - omit if you can't find them as there's no good substitute)
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 1 medium eggplant
• 1 cup coconut milk
• 1/2 tsp. brown sugar
• 1 tsp. salt

1. Cut shrimp into small pieces
2. Heat oil in large saucepan and fry onion, garlic and chilies until soft and golden
3. Add tomato and daun salam leaves and fry for 5 minutes, mashing the tomato into pulp.
4. Add stock, bring to boil.
5. Add eggplant to pan and simmer for 10-15 minutes or until just tender.
6. Add shrimp - but do not over cook.
7. Add coconut milk, sugar and salt and stir while heating through.

Udang Pedas - Spicy Shrimp and Green Beans (Adapted from Asian On Line Recipes)

• 2 tablespoons oil
• 3/4 cup medium shrimp - peeled and deveined
• 1 bunch Chinese or domestic chives
• 1/2 pound green beans
• 1 tablespoon lime juice

Spices - (ground)

• Handful dried red chilies
• 1 tomato
• 5 shallots
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 teaspoon salt

1. Heat oil and saute ground spices.
2. Add chives and green beans.
3. Add shrimp, taking care not to over cook.
4. Add lime juice before removing from heat.
5. Serve hot with noodles or curry.

Final Assessment: Killer