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Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Day 79! Israel - Vegetarian: Falafel (פלאפל) and Tabbouleh with Tahini Sauce - Up Next, Italy

Falafel with Tabbouleh and Tahini Sauce
Considered the ultimate street food in Israel, Falafel is one of my all time favorite vegetarian dishes.  Wrapped in warmed pita bread, drizzled with garlic and lemon infused Tahini sauce and pilled high with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, the nutty crunchiness of Falafel rivals a good steak any day. To accompany tonight's Israeli meal, I also made a batch of Tabbouleh, loaded with fresh parsley and mint from my garden, scallions, tomatoes, cucumbers and lemon juice.

Blechhh




Beautiful






BUT, WAIT!! The first falafel recipe I tried failed miserably. Everything was going along just fine until about 30 seconds into the cooking, when the lovely little falafel balls disintegrated in the cooking oil before my very eyes. I had two recipes, one that used an egg to bind the chickpeas, another that simply used flour...Sooooo....I tossed out the first egg-less mess (and recipe), and started a second batch that used  an egg, bread crumbs and bulgur wheat which went off without a hitch. Phew.

Located on the Eastern Shore of the Mediterranean Sea, Israel borders Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, the West Bank, Egypt and Gaza. It is the only predominantly Jewish state in the world. Israel's rich history dates back to Biblical times. As most are aware, the Israelis and Palestinians have been fighting over land they both believe belongs to them for roughly 60 years.

 For religious Jewish Israelis and religious Muslim Palestinians, to give up or give away their land would be tantamount to committing a sin against God, whom both sides believe gave them the land. It's a rather simple concept, but the religious implications and the complex history make this on-going war one of the most deadly and drawn out conflicts in modern history. Sadly, resolution seems a remote hope.

Israeli cuisine is influenced by the Mizrahi, Sepharic and Ashkeriazi Jews. Arabic, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cultures also influence Israeli cuisine. Dishes such as falafel, humus, shakshouka, couscous and za'atar (a seasoning I love to use) are all enjoyed by Israelis.


Mint, scallions, parsley, lemons and tomatoes add kick to the tabbouleh's mild flavor

Frying up the way they're SUPPOSED to! Second time's a charm!

Falafel wrapped up in pita bread, drizzled with tahini sauce
  topped with scallions & tomatoes - most excellent.
Falafel (Adapted from World Recipes)
(Makes about 24 balls)

  • 1 lb. can chick peas (drained)
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 to 1 cup breadcrumbs or fine bulgur (I used both)
  • 1 tsp. cumin
  • 1 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 1 tsp. chopped garlic
  • Vegetable oil for frying

Combine chick peas, onion, parley, lightly beaten egg and spices. Pulse in food processor. Add breadcrumbs/bulgur until mixture forms a small ball without sticking to your hands. Form chick pea mixture into small balls about the size of a walnut and fry until brown on both sides. Drain falafel balls on paper towels. Serve individually or in pita bread with tahini sauce, filling with chopped tomato, scallions, cucumber, lettuce, humus or anything you like!

Tabbouleh (Adapted from Bob's Red Mill recipe)

2 cups bulgur (pre-soaked for one hour)
3 cups parsley, finely minced
1/4 cup mint, finely chopped
3 scallions, chopped
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. sea salt
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 medium cucumber, peeled and sliced
3 Tbsp. olive oil

Pre-soak bulgur in a bowl with 2 cups of water, let stand 1 hour.
In a large bowl, using a wooden spoon, gently mix together all ingredients, except the lemon juice, oil and cucumber. Add the lemon juice, toss and chill for 1 hour to blend the flavors. Before serving, toss and again with olive oil and add the cucumbers. Serve along side falafel with pita bread.

Final Assessment:  Other than the falafel fiasco with the first recipe I tried, this turned out to be a delicious and satisfying meal enjoyed by my entire family. Leftovers will certainly be taken to work tomorrow!

Today's Special Movie Review



Today's Special opens up in theaters around the US tomorrow. I got a chance to see a preview of it a few months ago at the International Food Blogger Conference and found it to be utterly charming, funny, and a bit of a tearjerker at times. You may recognize the lead actor Aasif Mandvi from the Daily Show with Jon Stewart. You will certainly recognize cookbook author and actress, Madhur Jaffrey. She's great in the role of the mother of the central character, a chef in the midst of professional and personal crises.

I don't want to give away too many of the details, but the movie is about a chef, Samir, who impulsively quits his job, is pressed into service at his family's restaurant, finds his cooking mojo and of course, the approach to food is really an approach to life. I was disappointed that the filmmaker did not accept Madhur Jaffrey's offer to help with the food scenes, because some of them lack authenticity. It's a shame, because in every other way this film is such a pleasure.

The story is completely predictable and formulaic, but with a film this enjoyable, who cares? Sure, it includes many cliches of dating and family strife but somehow there is a sweetness that tugs at your heartstrings anyway. The supporting cast of veteran Indian actors are just a joy to watch, especially Naseeruddin Shah, who was in Monsoon Wedding. You don't have to be Indian to appreciate the culture clashes and modern drama that the lead character finds himself in; the story has a universal appeal. Overall it is sweet, romantic, sentimental and will make you want to go out for Indian food, so plan accordingly.

Monday, November 15, 2010

Meet Chef Gopinathan of Campton Place

Executive Chef Sri Gopinathan
Campton Place the restaurant at Campton Place Taj Hotel San Francisco has an illustrious history. Many celebrated chefs have passed through the kitchen including Laurent Manrique, Jan Birnbaum, Bradley Ogden, Daniel Humm, Todd Humphries and Peter Rudolph. The restaurant added an Indian flair to the menu when the Taj took over the hotel and Executive Chef Sri Gopinathan took the helm. The restaurant has flown a bit under the radar for the last few years, but now it's back in the spotlight. Michelin just awarded Campton Place a star in their 2011 guide.

Chef Sri Gopinathan hails from Southern India, trained at the CIA Hyde Park and apprenticed in the kitchen of Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones at the famed Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, in Oxford, England, a Michelin 2 star restaurant.
Since Campton Place is sure to be on the list for local and visiting foodies, I checked in with the chef to learn more about him and his cooking.

How would you describe your food?My style of cooking is French California with a subtle Spice Route
influence.

What is your signature dish or dishes?Most of my dishes have my signature-  a subtle use of spices- but I have an emotional attachment to one dish in particular.  It is butter poached lobster with basmati crisp, a coconut curry sauce and cilantro. This preparation reminds me of home; it has typical southern Indian flavor but a French cooking technique.

How has your cooking been influenced by San Francisco and California?I love the produce available here-  really some of the best produce in the world is from here!  Also there is a really great group of chefs in the Bay Area and the area offers a wonderful, and challenging, culinary platform for me.  The area is full of amazing farmers, artisans in baking and cheese-making, vintners… and the list goes on and on of people who are very influencing, inspiring and motivating.

What are your greatest sources of culinary inspiration?This is really simple:  I’m inspired by fresh, seasonal produce…and there’s nothing like what is grown here in Northern California.  And secondly, my 90-year old grandmother’s cooking.

What do you like most about living in the Bay Area?I’ve never lived in a part of the world that has so many people interested in food and wine.  It’s a dynamic influence on me…really everyone is so passionate about what they literally bring to the table.

What are your 3 favorite Bay Area restaurants?Oh, and now a hard question to answer!  SPQR, Yank Sing and, of course, The French Laundry.

Thanks chef!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Day 78! Ireland - Royal Hibernian Brown Bread - Up Next, Israel


What to cook for the beautiful country of Ireland from whence many of my relatives came? Known for such wonderful things such as lyric song and poetry, great beer, hospitality, rugby and an emerald country-side, Ireland (perhaps somewhat unfairly), is not known for it's culinary chops. But don't despair, Ireland does produce some pretty amazing bread, and brown soda bread just happens to be the country's national loaf.
 
To find the perfect brown bread recipe, I turned to two of my favorite bread cook books: a dog-eared copy of  Beard on Bread, by none other than James Beard and another extremely comprehensive bread bible, Bernard Clayton's New Complete Book of Breads. Both revered bakers and authors, their brown bread recipes differ slightly, Clayton's adding sugar, butter and an egg to create a lovely rich loaf of brown soda bread that is served up in Dublin's Royal Hibernian Hotel. In my world, anything with butter in it pretty much trumps everything, so I went with Clayton's version, but James Beard's simple recipe is wonderful as well.

Located in Northwest Continental Europe,  Ireland is divided into the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, the likes of which have been embroiled in cultural and religious clashes for hundreds of years. Ireland's culinary traditions are influenced by it's temperate growing climate, and is best known for the potato, which was introduced in the the second half of the 6th century. The country is also known for excellent beef, which it exports world wide. Irish stew, bacon, cabbage and baked goods are the hallmarks of Irish cuisine.

Sea salt adds a lovely crunchy texture to the crust
Butter is worked in by hand until the texture resembles soft breadcrumbs



Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf 
Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf (Adapted from The Complete Book of Breads)
(one round loaf)
  • 2 1/2 cups whole wheat four, stone ground if possible
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, approximately
  • 2 Tbsp. sugar
  • 1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, room temperature
  • 1 egg
  • 1 1/4 cups buttermilk (or 5 Tbsp. butter mild powder plus 1 1/4 cups water), room temperature
1 baking sheet, greased or Teflon
Preheat oven to 400F 20 minutes before baking.
  1. In a bowl mix together all of the dry ingredients. With your fingers, work in the butter until it is absorbed by the fl9our, and the mixture resembles tiny, soft breadcrumbs.
  2. Make a well in the center of the mixture. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the egg and stir in the milk. Gradually pour the egg-milk mixture into the well, mixing first with a spoon and then by hand until it forms a stiff dough.
  3. Lift the dough from the bowl and place on a lightly floured work surface. Work the dough with your hands a dough knife to thoroughly blend all the ingredients. Do not knead. The butter in the dough will make it easy to work without sticking to the work surface or the hands. Sprinkle with flour if it sticks.
  4. Shape into a plump round ball. Pat down the top slightly, and with a knife or razor blade, cut a 1/2" deep cross on the top.
  5. Place the loaf on the baking sheet, and bake until it has browned and has opened dramatically along the cuts, about 45 minutes.
  6. Remove the bread from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool before cutting into thin slices.
Final Assessment: A beautiful, hearty bread that's full of flavor and insanely easy to make - no yeast, no proofing....not problem. Slather it up with butter and call it breakfast, a snack or an accompaniment to soup, salad or a main course.


 

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Meat Cookbooks

Vegetarians, avert your eyes, now! This year there are several cookbooks dedicated to cooking meat. If you are like me, you are eating less meat, but being more particular about what you consume. I no longer buy meat at the supermarket. I am too haunted by images of factory farming. But I am still eating meat and while it makes up less of the plate, the few days a week I do cook it, I want it to be as deliciously satisfying as possible. Each of the following books are written by James Beard award-winners who know their stuff. Their recipes work, their writing is clear and their knowledge unassailable.

Meat by James Peterson James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes.

Good MeatThe most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes.

Falling Off the BoneThe smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Day 77! Iraq -Beef with Fruit and Rice- لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس

لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس - Beef with Fruit and Rice
With everything we know about the ancient country of Iraq, what do we really know about it's food? Mostly, we in the U.S. hear about the war, efforts to rebuild a country whose long history of unrest has kept it's people oppressed and on-going political, ethnic and religious unrest. But regardless of cultural differences and beliefs, people come together to share a simple meal, or to honor the month of Ramadan. Tonight's meal celebrates this beautiful country and brings a small window of insight to our family's dinner table.

Interestingly, all of the research I did prior to making tonight's meal seems to be in agreement that Iraqi food is primarily influenced by it's neighbors, Turkey and Iran and doesn't, apparently, have a cuisine that it claims as it's own. I can't be absolutely certain that this is true, so if there are readers out there who can speak more authoritatively on Iraqi cuisine and it's culture, I'd love to hear from you.

Located in southwestern Asia, in the Middle East, Iraq's country is primarily dry and is relatively inhospitable to most plants except date palms, and produces nearly 80% of the world's dates. Iraqi's enjoy dates as snacks, in cooking paired with meat or poultry and in dishes served during the religious fast of Ramadan.






Dried apricots, prunes and apples
Like much Middle Eastern cuisine, Iraqi cooking often combines fruit with beef and chicken. Wheat, barely rice, goat, lamb, kababs and pickled vegetables as well as yogurt and stuffed vegetables are also enjoyed. Because 95% of Iraqis are Muslim (roughly 54%  Shi'ite and 41% Sunni), alcohol is forbidden.




Beef with Fruit and Rice: لحم البقر مع الفاكهة ورايس
(Adapted from a recipe in Food in Every Country)

  • 1 cup dried prunes, pits removed
  • 1 cup dried apples
  • 1 cup dried apricots
  • 1 small onion, roughly chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 pounds beef, cut into cubes (chicken can be substituted)
  • 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • 1 Tbsp. sugar
  • 1 Tbsp. cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. pepper
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/3 cup tomato sauce
  • 4 cups cooked rice


  1. Place the dried fruits in a separate bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let sit for about 15 minutes, then drain.
  2. In a frying pan, heat the oil and saute the onions and garlic until soft.
  3. Add beef and saute until browned.
  4. Add the runes and cook on low, uncovered for 10 minutes.
  5. Add the apples, apricots, seasonings and tomato sauce.
  6. Stir well and cook uncovered for another 10 minutes. Serve hot over rice.
Final Assessment: This was a GREAT meal. The combination of fruit and meat, seasoned with cinnamon and just a little tomato sauce was savory, sweet and delicious. Not a drop left!

Monday, November 8, 2010

Boss Brownies - and I'm not talkin' Bruce Springsteen




Dutch Process High Fat Cocoa: Seriously, there's nothing in my pantry that sounds better than this...except maybe a lovely bottle of Italian red wine I'm saving for just the right meal.

But since I'm in the mood for chocolate, my son is begging me for something chocolaty and I just happen to have said Dutch Process High Fat Cocoa  from Penzeys on hand,  I set out to find a recipe that would yield a perfect batch of soft, chewy brownies with that glossy "crust" top, slightly bittersweet and rich, but without that cloying sweetness that makes me grit my teeth.

Milder and mellower in flavor than unsweetened cocoa powder, Dutch-process cocoa also dissolves easily in liquid. The butter, sugar and cocoa in this recipe are melted over simmering water until smooth and shinny. Next eggs are added one at a time and blended until the batter turns glossy.


Here's a recipe adapted from Epicurious that fits the bill and then some.

Boss Cocoa Brownies

  • 10 Tablespoons unsalted sweet butter
  • 1 1/4 cups sugar
  • 34 cups plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened  Dutch-process cocoa powder 
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon pure Madagascar vanilla extract
  • 2 cold large eggs
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (optional)


  1. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325 F. Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with foil or parchment paper, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.
  2. Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa and salt in a medium heatproof blow and set the bowl in t wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot enough that you want to remove your finger quickly after dipping it in to test. Remove the bowl from the skillet and set aside briefly until the mixture is only warm, not hot.
  3. Stir in the vanilla with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one. When the batter looks thick, shiny and well blended, add the four and stir until you can't see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes wit the wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Stir in the nuts, if using,. Spread evenly in the lined pan.
  4. Bake until a toothpick plunged into the center emerges slightly moist with batter, 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack. If you cut it too soon, it'll be too gooey (which we did because we couldn't wait)
  5. Lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 15 or 25 squares.