-->

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Day 80 1/2! The Imperial Republic of Cupcake


While out shopping last week, I saw an issue of Cook's Country Best Country Recipes at the register. So what, right? Wrong. So, so wrong. Seducing me from the cover of the magazine was a dazzling, yet nostalgic photograph of what I instantly recognized as Hostess Cupcakes. There was absolutely NO mistaking the velvety chocolate crumb, creamy white filling and...wait for it...the curlicue icing across the top of the frosted confections.

Obviously, I wasn't in my right mind because I didn't buy the magazine, but a week later, those Hostess-like-cupcakes were still stalking me. I could have just gone out and bought a pack of actual Hostess Cupcakes, but with all due respect to Hostess, the last few times I've had a Yodel, Ring-Ding, Cupcake or Twinkie (thanks, Tim), I was definitely not transported back to my childhood. Now, I know times have changed since I was a kid and dinosaurs roamed the earth,  but what I remembered as delicious little cream-filled cakes wrapped in crinkly cellophane, tasted artificial and worst of all, the consistency of the filling was simultaneously slimy and gritty. Imagine my delight when I found myself back at the grocery store yesterday, only to discover the magazine still on the shelf as though waiting for me.

The great thing about Cook's  is that they test and report on the hits and misses of each recipe before going to press, so I was pretty sure the recipe would be great. And for the most part, it was...except for the marshmallow filling which was well, too marshmallow-y and not at all like the cream filling I remembered. So I tossed out the first batch and went to work adapting the recipe, keeping the excellent cake, but substituting my own whipped cream filling and and  pipping. Taddahhhhhh!




Cut a wedge out of the center
Cut the tip off the wedge



I used egg whites, cream of tartar and confectioners' sugar for the piping







Chocolate Cream Cupcakes (Adapted from Cook's Country Best Country Recipes)
(Makes 12 Cupcakes)

Cupcakes
1 Cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup boiling water
1/3 cup cocoa powder (I used Dutch Process)
1/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 Tbsp. instant espresso
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs
1 tsp. Madagascar vanilla

Filling
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
2 Tbsp. confectioners' sugar
1/2 tsp. Madagascar vanilla extract

Glaze
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips
3 Tbsp. butter

Icing
1 Tbsp. egg white, at room temperature
1 pinch of cream of tartar
1/2 cup plus 2-3 Tbsp. confectioners' sugar

1. Make Batter Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325F. Grease and flour 12 cup muffin tin, or use paper/foil liners. Combine flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. In the bowl of an electric mixer whisk water, cocoa, chocolate chips, and espresso until smooth. Add sugar, sour cream, oil, eggs, and vanilla and mix until combined. Whisk in flour mixture until incorporated. Divide batter evenly among muffin cups. Bake until toothpick inserted into cupcake comes out with few dry crumbs attached, 18-20 minutes.Cool cupcakes in tin 10 minutes, then turn them out onto wire rack and cool completely.

2. Prepare Filling Combine  cream, confectioners' sugar and vanilla and whip until fairly stiff.


3. Assemble Cupcakes Microwave chocolate and butter in small bowl, stirring occasionally, until smooth, about 30 seconds. Cool glaze to room temperature, about 10 minutes. As demonstrated in photos, cut cone from top of each cupcake and fill with 1 tablespoon filling each. Replace tops, frost with 2 teaspoons cooled glaze, and let sit 10 minutes.

4. Prepare Piping Fill pastry bag fitted with a small plain tip with piping mixture and, pipe curlicues across glazed cupcakes. Chill until piping hardens up.


Final Assessment: These are un-bleeping-believable. The cake is perfect in both flavor and crumb. The whipped cream filling was a HUGE improvement over the marshmallow filling I'd made the first time around. The main difference is that using real cream requires refrigeration to prevent spoiling. Cupcakes will keep up to 2 days in the refrigerator and up to 2 weeks if frozen.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Day 80! Italy: Polenta Pasticciata Ai Gamberi (Polenta with Shrimp), Stuffed Artichokes, Tuscan Wine Grape Pie and Grape Harvest Cake - Up Next, Jamaica

Polenta Pasticciata Ai Gamberi

A rosemary and parsley bouquet
Okay,  I definitely need six or seven more days to cover even one iota of the dishes I want to make in the beautiful country of Italy. Fresh herbs, olive oil, garlic, wine and simplicity rocked this meal to the nth degree.

The recipes for tonight's meal are collected from a range of family friends, neighbors, a really cool blog and a beautiful coffee table/cookbook my Dad gave me many years ago. Divided by region and accompanied by gorgeous photographs and recipes, Culinaria Italy, is the type of book I leaf through when I'm looking for escape and inspiration.

The stuffed artichoke recipe comes from my dear friend and neighbor, Lina, a gorgeous, fiery Sicilian woman I wouldn't dare cross. She's an unbelievable cook and thinks nothing of hosting an "intimate" party of 60. Despite her crazy schedule, she made time to come over today to give me direct instructions, which I followed to the T - except for adding a squeeze of fresh lemon juice because I just couldn't help myself.

I love my neighbors
The wine for tonight's meal came from my awesome neighbors, Lee DeSorgher and Pat Fuller whose contribution brought an already great meal to insanely heavenly heights.

Now, you may notice there are two grape cakes in this entry. That's because they're both so phenomenal that I couldn't make up my mind, so really, what could I do? I had to make both.

The Tuscan Grape Pie comes from an awesome foodie site, Oyster Culture that posted a wonderful story about eating grape cake on a trip to Italy, and included a recipe I had to try. The Grape Harvest Cake recipe comes from our longtime family friend, Joy - a badass cook of epic proportions who does her best cooking at midnight.

Located in Southern Europe, Italy is famously known for it's boot shaped peninsula along with the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. To the north, Italy borders France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia.

Italy's culinary culture dates back the 4th century, BC, and is influenced by Etruscan, ancient Greek and Roman, Byzantine, Jewish and Arabic traditions. Depending on the region, ingredients and cooking techniques vary widely, however, the use of fresh, non-processed ingredients is a commonality shared throughout the country. Cheese, wine, espresso, olive oil, fresh fish, fruit and vegetables are but a few Italian staples.

Were I was lucky enough to be able to dine my way across the country, here's a small sampling of what I might find by region: Sicily, seafood; Sardinia, suckling pig, wild boar and beans; Tuscany Umbra, black truffles; Lombardi, rice and cheese; Vento, risotto with fish ........... I could go on and on.

Black Beauty Grapes for Tuscan Pie
(I could not find wine or wild grapes in November)

Schiacciata con l'Uva
Red Table Grapes
(I could not find Champagne Grapes this time of year)


Northern Italian Grape Harvest Cake
Scoop out the hairy center of the artichoke with a melon baller

Bread crumbs, garlic, provolone, Romano, parsley
and olive oil make the stuffing

Baby Bella Mushrooms
Depending on what kind of edge you want
any of these tools work well to cut polenta
What's wrong with this picture? Nothing!


 Polenta Paticciata Ai Gamberi - Polenta with Shrimp (Adapted from Culinaria Italy)

  • Polenta (I used Pastene)
  • Generous 2 lbs. shrimp
  • 1 handful of fresh mushrooms
  • 1 clove of garlic, chopped finely
  • 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
  • 3/4 cup white wine
  • 4 cups vegetable stock (or less)
  • Freshly ground pepper
  • Nutmeg


  1. Prepare the polenta to a soft consistency. Cool and cut into slices, and place them on a greased baking. Preheat oven to 350-375F.
  2. Clean the mushrooms and chop finely. Peel the shrimp and saute them in a little butter in a saucepan. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and parsley. 
  3. Pour on some of the white wine and vegetable stock and bring to a boil Add the rest only if needed. 
  4. Season with freshly ground pepper and nutmeg, and arrange on top of the polenta slices. 
  5. Bake for a few minutes in the preheated oven.

Lina's Stuffed Artichokes

  • 4 artichokes
  • 2 cups bread crumbs
  • 1/4 cup Romano cheese
  • 1/4 cup Parmesan or Provolone cheese
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon


  1. Cut bottoms and tops off artichokes. Steam or boil artichokes until soft for about 15 mintues.
  2. Combine all ingredients.
  3. Gently open leaves on artichokes and stuff with bread crumb mixture.
  4. Drizzle with olive oil.
  5. Bake for about 1/2 hour in 350F oven.

Tuscan Wine Grape Pie - Schiacciata con l'Uva (Adapted from Kyle Phillips)
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 3 1/3 cups flour
  • 1 Tbsp. baking powder
  • 1/3 cup White wine or water sufficient to make a smooth, workable dough
  • 2 1/4 lbs. wine grapes, stripped from their stems, washed and drained (you can use Concord, wild or table grapes if you can't find wine grapes)
  • 1/2 tsp. anise seeds
  • 1/4 cup chopped walnut meats
  • 1/2 tsp. freshly chopped rosemary leaves

  1. Heat oven to 400F.
  2. Mix the egg, sugar, flour olive oil, baking powder, and enough wine or water to obtain a fairly soft dough. Knead it till it's smooth, and roll it out to make a sheet large enough to kine and over the pan - a bit thinner than a quarter of an inch thick.
  3. Grease a 9x13-inch cake pan and line the bottom with half the dough, making sure that it reaches about an inch up the sides of the pan. fill the pan with about 3/4 of the grapes; gently squeeze some between your hands as you add them, and leave the rest whole.
  4. Use the remaining dough to cover the grapes, sealing them in with care, then spread the rest of the grapes on top of the schiacciata. Dust the schiacciata with sugar and bake it in the oven for about an hour, or until the crust is browned.

Grape Harvest Cake (Courtesy of Joy Easter)

  • Olive oil and flour for preparing cake pan
  • 2 large eggs at room temperature
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/3 cup non-fat milk
  • 1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  • 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
  • 3/4 tsp. baking powder
  • Pinch of sea salt
  • Grated zest of 2 lemons
  • Grated zest of 2 oranges
  • 1 1/2 pounds small fresh purple grapes (or red table grapes)

  1. Preheat oven to 375F
  2. Lightly oil and flour 9 1/2 inch springform pan, tapping out excess flour.
  3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the eggs and sugar at high speed until thick nad lemon-colored, about 3 minutes. Add the oil, milk, and vanilla, and mix just to blend.
  4. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt into a large bowl. Add the lemon and orange zest and toss to coat the zest with flour. Spoon the flour mixture into the egg mixture and stir to blend. Set aside for 10 minutes to allow the flour to absorb the liquids. Stir three-fourths of the fruit into the batter. Spoon the batter into the prepared cake pan, smoothing out the top with a spatula.
  5. Place the pan in the center of the oven. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and scatter the remaining grapes on top of the cake. Bake until the top is a deep golden brown and the cake feels quite firm, about 40 minutes more, for a total baking time of 55 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool. After 10 minutes, run a knife along the side of the pan. Release and remove the side of the springform pan, leaving the cake on the pan base. Serve at room temperature, cutting into thin wedges.
Final Assessment:  I will have to come back to Italy several times because there are too many things I want to make. This meal was phenomenal. Both cakes were delicious, although very different, one combining sweet and savory flavors. And the shrimp and polenta - well, need I really expound?
Busted....yes, we have chicken nuggets in the freezer :)


Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Day 79! Israel - Vegetarian: Falafel (פלאפל) and Tabbouleh with Tahini Sauce - Up Next, Italy

Falafel with Tabbouleh and Tahini Sauce
Considered the ultimate street food in Israel, Falafel is one of my all time favorite vegetarian dishes.  Wrapped in warmed pita bread, drizzled with garlic and lemon infused Tahini sauce and pilled high with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, the nutty crunchiness of Falafel rivals a good steak any day. To accompany tonight's Israeli meal, I also made a batch of Tabbouleh, loaded with fresh parsley and mint from my garden, scallions, tomatoes, cucumbers and lemon juice.

Blechhh




Beautiful






BUT, WAIT!! The first falafel recipe I tried failed miserably. Everything was going along just fine until about 30 seconds into the cooking, when the lovely little falafel balls disintegrated in the cooking oil before my very eyes. I had two recipes, one that used an egg to bind the chickpeas, another that simply used flour...Sooooo....I tossed out the first egg-less mess (and recipe), and started a second batch that used  an egg, bread crumbs and bulgur wheat which went off without a hitch. Phew.

Located on the Eastern Shore of the Mediterranean Sea, Israel borders Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, the West Bank, Egypt and Gaza. It is the only predominantly Jewish state in the world. Israel's rich history dates back to Biblical times. As most are aware, the Israelis and Palestinians have been fighting over land they both believe belongs to them for roughly 60 years.

 For religious Jewish Israelis and religious Muslim Palestinians, to give up or give away their land would be tantamount to committing a sin against God, whom both sides believe gave them the land. It's a rather simple concept, but the religious implications and the complex history make this on-going war one of the most deadly and drawn out conflicts in modern history. Sadly, resolution seems a remote hope.

Israeli cuisine is influenced by the Mizrahi, Sepharic and Ashkeriazi Jews. Arabic, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cultures also influence Israeli cuisine. Dishes such as falafel, humus, shakshouka, couscous and za'atar (a seasoning I love to use) are all enjoyed by Israelis.


Mint, scallions, parsley, lemons and tomatoes add kick to the tabbouleh's mild flavor

Frying up the way they're SUPPOSED to! Second time's a charm!

Falafel wrapped up in pita bread, drizzled with tahini sauce
  topped with scallions & tomatoes - most excellent.
Falafel (Adapted from World Recipes)
(Makes about 24 balls)

  • 1 lb. can chick peas (drained)
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 to 1 cup breadcrumbs or fine bulgur (I used both)
  • 1 tsp. cumin
  • 1 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 1 tsp. chopped garlic
  • Vegetable oil for frying

Combine chick peas, onion, parley, lightly beaten egg and spices. Pulse in food processor. Add breadcrumbs/bulgur until mixture forms a small ball without sticking to your hands. Form chick pea mixture into small balls about the size of a walnut and fry until brown on both sides. Drain falafel balls on paper towels. Serve individually or in pita bread with tahini sauce, filling with chopped tomato, scallions, cucumber, lettuce, humus or anything you like!

Tabbouleh (Adapted from Bob's Red Mill recipe)

2 cups bulgur (pre-soaked for one hour)
3 cups parsley, finely minced
1/4 cup mint, finely chopped
3 scallions, chopped
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. sea salt
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 medium cucumber, peeled and sliced
3 Tbsp. olive oil

Pre-soak bulgur in a bowl with 2 cups of water, let stand 1 hour.
In a large bowl, using a wooden spoon, gently mix together all ingredients, except the lemon juice, oil and cucumber. Add the lemon juice, toss and chill for 1 hour to blend the flavors. Before serving, toss and again with olive oil and add the cucumbers. Serve along side falafel with pita bread.

Final Assessment:  Other than the falafel fiasco with the first recipe I tried, this turned out to be a delicious and satisfying meal enjoyed by my entire family. Leftovers will certainly be taken to work tomorrow!

Today's Special Movie Review



Today's Special opens up in theaters around the US tomorrow. I got a chance to see a preview of it a few months ago at the International Food Blogger Conference and found it to be utterly charming, funny, and a bit of a tearjerker at times. You may recognize the lead actor Aasif Mandvi from the Daily Show with Jon Stewart. You will certainly recognize cookbook author and actress, Madhur Jaffrey. She's great in the role of the mother of the central character, a chef in the midst of professional and personal crises.

I don't want to give away too many of the details, but the movie is about a chef, Samir, who impulsively quits his job, is pressed into service at his family's restaurant, finds his cooking mojo and of course, the approach to food is really an approach to life. I was disappointed that the filmmaker did not accept Madhur Jaffrey's offer to help with the food scenes, because some of them lack authenticity. It's a shame, because in every other way this film is such a pleasure.

The story is completely predictable and formulaic, but with a film this enjoyable, who cares? Sure, it includes many cliches of dating and family strife but somehow there is a sweetness that tugs at your heartstrings anyway. The supporting cast of veteran Indian actors are just a joy to watch, especially Naseeruddin Shah, who was in Monsoon Wedding. You don't have to be Indian to appreciate the culture clashes and modern drama that the lead character finds himself in; the story has a universal appeal. Overall it is sweet, romantic, sentimental and will make you want to go out for Indian food, so plan accordingly.

Monday, November 15, 2010

Meet Chef Gopinathan of Campton Place

Executive Chef Sri Gopinathan
Campton Place the restaurant at Campton Place Taj Hotel San Francisco has an illustrious history. Many celebrated chefs have passed through the kitchen including Laurent Manrique, Jan Birnbaum, Bradley Ogden, Daniel Humm, Todd Humphries and Peter Rudolph. The restaurant added an Indian flair to the menu when the Taj took over the hotel and Executive Chef Sri Gopinathan took the helm. The restaurant has flown a bit under the radar for the last few years, but now it's back in the spotlight. Michelin just awarded Campton Place a star in their 2011 guide.

Chef Sri Gopinathan hails from Southern India, trained at the CIA Hyde Park and apprenticed in the kitchen of Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones at the famed Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons, in Oxford, England, a Michelin 2 star restaurant.
Since Campton Place is sure to be on the list for local and visiting foodies, I checked in with the chef to learn more about him and his cooking.

How would you describe your food?My style of cooking is French California with a subtle Spice Route
influence.

What is your signature dish or dishes?Most of my dishes have my signature-  a subtle use of spices- but I have an emotional attachment to one dish in particular.  It is butter poached lobster with basmati crisp, a coconut curry sauce and cilantro. This preparation reminds me of home; it has typical southern Indian flavor but a French cooking technique.

How has your cooking been influenced by San Francisco and California?I love the produce available here-  really some of the best produce in the world is from here!  Also there is a really great group of chefs in the Bay Area and the area offers a wonderful, and challenging, culinary platform for me.  The area is full of amazing farmers, artisans in baking and cheese-making, vintners… and the list goes on and on of people who are very influencing, inspiring and motivating.

What are your greatest sources of culinary inspiration?This is really simple:  I’m inspired by fresh, seasonal produce…and there’s nothing like what is grown here in Northern California.  And secondly, my 90-year old grandmother’s cooking.

What do you like most about living in the Bay Area?I’ve never lived in a part of the world that has so many people interested in food and wine.  It’s a dynamic influence on me…really everyone is so passionate about what they literally bring to the table.

What are your 3 favorite Bay Area restaurants?Oh, and now a hard question to answer!  SPQR, Yank Sing and, of course, The French Laundry.

Thanks chef!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Day 78! Ireland - Royal Hibernian Brown Bread - Up Next, Israel


What to cook for the beautiful country of Ireland from whence many of my relatives came? Known for such wonderful things such as lyric song and poetry, great beer, hospitality, rugby and an emerald country-side, Ireland (perhaps somewhat unfairly), is not known for it's culinary chops. But don't despair, Ireland does produce some pretty amazing bread, and brown soda bread just happens to be the country's national loaf.
 
To find the perfect brown bread recipe, I turned to two of my favorite bread cook books: a dog-eared copy of  Beard on Bread, by none other than James Beard and another extremely comprehensive bread bible, Bernard Clayton's New Complete Book of Breads. Both revered bakers and authors, their brown bread recipes differ slightly, Clayton's adding sugar, butter and an egg to create a lovely rich loaf of brown soda bread that is served up in Dublin's Royal Hibernian Hotel. In my world, anything with butter in it pretty much trumps everything, so I went with Clayton's version, but James Beard's simple recipe is wonderful as well.

Located in Northwest Continental Europe,  Ireland is divided into the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, the likes of which have been embroiled in cultural and religious clashes for hundreds of years. Ireland's culinary traditions are influenced by it's temperate growing climate, and is best known for the potato, which was introduced in the the second half of the 6th century. The country is also known for excellent beef, which it exports world wide. Irish stew, bacon, cabbage and baked goods are the hallmarks of Irish cuisine.

Sea salt adds a lovely crunchy texture to the crust
Butter is worked in by hand until the texture resembles soft breadcrumbs



Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf 
Royal Hibernian Brown Loaf (Adapted from The Complete Book of Breads)
(one round loaf)
  • 2 1/2 cups whole wheat four, stone ground if possible
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, approximately
  • 2 Tbsp. sugar
  • 1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, room temperature
  • 1 egg
  • 1 1/4 cups buttermilk (or 5 Tbsp. butter mild powder plus 1 1/4 cups water), room temperature
1 baking sheet, greased or Teflon
Preheat oven to 400F 20 minutes before baking.
  1. In a bowl mix together all of the dry ingredients. With your fingers, work in the butter until it is absorbed by the fl9our, and the mixture resembles tiny, soft breadcrumbs.
  2. Make a well in the center of the mixture. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the egg and stir in the milk. Gradually pour the egg-milk mixture into the well, mixing first with a spoon and then by hand until it forms a stiff dough.
  3. Lift the dough from the bowl and place on a lightly floured work surface. Work the dough with your hands a dough knife to thoroughly blend all the ingredients. Do not knead. The butter in the dough will make it easy to work without sticking to the work surface or the hands. Sprinkle with flour if it sticks.
  4. Shape into a plump round ball. Pat down the top slightly, and with a knife or razor blade, cut a 1/2" deep cross on the top.
  5. Place the loaf on the baking sheet, and bake until it has browned and has opened dramatically along the cuts, about 45 minutes.
  6. Remove the bread from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool before cutting into thin slices.
Final Assessment: A beautiful, hearty bread that's full of flavor and insanely easy to make - no yeast, no proofing....not problem. Slather it up with butter and call it breakfast, a snack or an accompaniment to soup, salad or a main course.


 

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Meat Cookbooks

Vegetarians, avert your eyes, now! This year there are several cookbooks dedicated to cooking meat. If you are like me, you are eating less meat, but being more particular about what you consume. I no longer buy meat at the supermarket. I am too haunted by images of factory farming. But I am still eating meat and while it makes up less of the plate, the few days a week I do cook it, I want it to be as deliciously satisfying as possible. Each of the following books are written by James Beard award-winners who know their stuff. Their recipes work, their writing is clear and their knowledge unassailable.

Meat by James Peterson James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes.

Good MeatThe most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes.

Falling Off the BoneThe smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.