Why do YOU cook, Aleta Watson?

San Jose Mercury News readers will surely recognize the name Aleta Watson. Aleta is an award-winning reporter and restaurant reviewer who was on staff there for quite a while.

I'm always curious about what restaurant reviewers choose to cook at home. Thankfully Aleta has a gorgeous blog, Skillet Chronicles, that satisfies my curiosity while inspiring my own creativity. It turns out Aleta cooks the way I do and the same things that appeal to her generally appeal to me too. She is also a proponent of the joy one finds in the kitchen! Can I get an "amen"? If you enjoy my blog, I'm confident you will enjoy discovering hers too.

"The salty tang of preserved lemon in a chicken tagine. The deep savor of slow-cooked cassoulet. The sweet satisfaction of Sicilian cookies stuffed with ground figs and nuts. I cook because I’m a curious eater. I love to taste new foods, explore unfamiliar cooking techniques and share my finds.

When I was growing up, our family meals leaned heavily toward red meat, potatoes and frozen vegetables. Although my mother was a good cook, she stuck with what she knew. Not until I left home did I realize what a wide range of flavors the world had to offer.

A friend introduced me to Chinese food, Indian curries and “Joy of Cooking” and a lifelong love affair with pots and pans began. I reveled in the challenge and creativity of working with my hands in the kitchen after days toiling as a reporter and editor in Bay Area newsrooms. Trying out new recipes and feeding the results to family and friends became one of my favorite pastimes.

Even when I worked as a restaurant critic, I generally preferred cooking to eating out. The food served at most restaurants not only was disappointing but laden with salt and fat. My family ate better when we shopped for and prepared our own meals. We knew where our ingredients came from and the food was fresher, better tasting and more nutritious.

Now, I’m on a mission to help more people discover the pleasures of cooking for themselves and their families, using local ingredients in season. Everyone knows it’s good for the wallet, better for the body, and a boon for the planet. But too few people seem to realize how much fun it can be."

Day 86! Kiribati - Lumpia (Spring Rolls) - Up Next, Korea

Vegetable, shrimp and pork Lumpia spring rolls
with garlic-soy brown sugar sauce

No matter how old you are, learning something new should thrill you. The day I lose that feeling of wonder and awe will be the day I hang up my pots and pans. Today I not only learned about the Island Nation of Kiribati,  a country I'd never heard of, but I had the privilege of sampling a little bit of the country's culture through it's food by making Lumpia spring rolls.

Located in the Central Tropical Pacific Ocean, Kiribati is an Island Nation that consists of 32 atolls and 1 raised coral island. The Island straddles the equator and to it's eastern most region, borders the international timeline. How cool is that?!

Kiribati is one of the world's poorest countries, owing to its lack of natural resources. Moreover, due to global warming and rising sea levels, the country is predicted to eventually disappear, forever displacing it's people and way of life as a tragic consequence of man's stupidity and ignorance.

Dishes in Kiribati are generally based on fresh fish,  shrimp and crabs as well as coconut and coconut milk. Banana leaves, curries and rice are also commonly found staples. Some say the food is quite similar to that found in the Philippines, but this island nation certainly claims a culinary culture all its own.

Fish, shrimp and crab are the primary sources of protein enjoyed
in Kiribati

I used water chestnuts in the filling, but potatoes
can be substituted 

A mixture of soy sauce, corn starch and water binds the filling

 My first attempt at making the wrappers for the Lumpia was fairly successful for a rookie. After one or two false starts in which I under-cooked the batter and made the pancakes too thick, I got the hang of it. I was expecting something like traditional egg roll wrappers, but these are more like crepes.

 This recipe does not call for frying the Lumpia, but I decided to try it both ways, un-fried (pictured at the top of the page), and fried, pictured below. Both were delicious. If you want to be a little more health conscious, skip the frying. If you prefer a crispy spring roll, heat a little oil in a pan till it's good and hot and fry them up.

Lumpia Wrappers

• 1/2 cup cornstarch
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. salt
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 2 cups water
• Oil for frying

1. Combine cornstarch, flour and salt in a medium sized bowl. Add eggs and water, mix until smooth.
2. Heat a 6-inch skillet and oil very lightly. Spoon in a very thin layer of batter, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan. Cook on one side only until done. Turn onto waxed paper. Repeat until the batter is used, stacking wrappers between squares of waxed paper. Set aside.

Lumpia Filling

• 1/2 lb. ground pork
• 4 cloves cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1/2 lb. raw shrimp, chopped
• 2 tsp. salt
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• 1/2 can water chestnuts, sliced thinly
• 1 cup grated carrot
• 1 cup bean sprouts
• 1 cup shredded cabbage
• 1 Tbsp. soy sauce
• 1 Tbsp. cornstarch
• 1 Tbsp. water
• Lettuce leaves

1. Shell, Devinne and chop shrimp. Slice water chestnuts in thin strips. Dissolve corn starch in 1 tablespoon of water.
2. In a skillet, brown pork. Add garlic, then onion and shrimp. Saute and season with salt and pepper. Add water chestnuts and carrots. Cook briefly until tender. Stir in bean sprouts and cabbage. Add soy sauce and cornstarch-water mixture; mix well and cook for 5 minutes.
3. Cool filling mixture and spoon a tablespoon in Lumpia wrapper. Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers. Serve with Lumpia garlic brown sugar soy dipping sauce.

Lumpia Sauce

• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 3 Tbsp. cornstarch
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 2 tsp. ground garlic
• 1 cup beef broth

Combine sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan. Stir in soy sauce and garlic. Add broth and mix well. Cook over medium heat until mixture thickens. Server over fresh Lumpia.

Final Assessment:  This was delicious and easy to make. It didn't really count as a whole meal, but as an appetizer or snack, it's perfect. This recipe made about 20 Lumpia and they disappeared in about 20 seconds flat.

Day 85! Kenya-Samaki wa Kuaanga (fried fish), Sukuma Wiki (Greens) & Rice. Up Next, Kirbati

Semper aliquid African adferre.

(There's always something interesting coming out of Africa) ~ Pliny the Elder

It's been a while since I've cooked a meal from the African continent. Tonight's meal of Samaki wa Kuaaga (Swahili for fried fish) and Sukuma Wiki  (collard greens-translated, means 'to push the week' - implying food used to stretch the week), with a side of rice was simple and surprisingly delicious. 

Many years ago, I worked with a woman who made the best collard greens (affectionately referred to as, Malissa's Greens), I've ever had. She used the perfect proportion of turkey wings, ham hocks, sugar and vinegar to cook up a pot of melt-in-your mouth greens. I won't claim that mine were close to being that awesome, but I think she'd approve :)

Located in the eastern part of Africa, Kenya borders Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania as well as the Indian Ocean. Kenya is internationally known for its vast wildlife and savannas and is home to 42 different ethnic tribes.

Interestingly, Kenya's culinary history is one dominated by oral tradition handed down through generations. In many tribes, men do more of the cooking than women. Black eyed peas, ground nuts, bananas, coconuts, beans, greens, casava, yams, ginger, cayenne and okra are all commonly eaten foods and spices Kenyan's enjoy.

Garlic, lime&lemon juice, salt and cayenne pepper make the marinade

I like plenty of cayenne along with garlic in the marinade mix

Collard greens are loaded with vitamins and full of flavor

Samaki wa Kuaanga (Kenyan Spicy Fried Fish) -Adapted from www.whats4eats.com

• 2 pounds fish fillets (I used Talapia)
• 1/4 cup lime or lemon juice
• 4-5 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tsp. salt
• 1/4-1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (or minced jalapeño or Serrano peppers) 
• Oil for frying

1. Add the fish, lime/lemon juice, garlic salt and cayenne pepper to a large, non-reactive bowl and set aside to marinate for 20-30 minutes.
2. Heat the oil in a saute pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Remove the fish fillets from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Fry the fillets in the hot oil until browned on each side.
3. Serve with Sukuma Wiki

Sukuma Wiki ("push the week" collard greens)

• Oil, or bacon fat (I minced about a 1/3 cup bacon)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 pounds leafy greens, destemmed and chopped (I used collard greens)
• 1-2 cups water or stock
• salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy bottomed pot.  Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the greens in batches, sauteing and stirring each addition until it is fully wilted.
2. Add the water or stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer gently until tender, from 25-45 minutes depending on the type of green.
3. Adjust seasoning and serve with a little bit of the broth, or "potlikker". 

Final Assessment: This was deceptively simple fare that I thought would be plain, but turned out to be delicious and satisfying as well as healthy and light. A+

La Cocina Gift Fair is Today!

La Cocina is hosting a holiday gift fair where you will have a chance to try and buy lots of wonderful things from participants in their food business incubator program and other local entrepreneurs.

Some of my favorites not to miss are Clairesquares for chocolate covered crunchy "flapjack" oat bars, Kika’s Treats for chocolate covered caramelized graham crackers, Love and Hum­mus Co for delectable organic hummus, Sajen for spicy and healthy Indone­sian drinks. In addition, Marcia Gagliardi will be there signing copies of her terrific book, The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco.

In my experience, food gifts are some the most appreciated gifts of all. In this case you'll also be supporting low-income entrepreneurs in our community and helping turn them into successful business owners.

Where: Mis­sion Cul­tural Cen­ter for Latino Arts
2868 Mission Street between 24th and 25th St., San Francisco

When: Fri­day, Decem­ber 10th, 4PM — 9PM

Com­ing? RSVP on Facebook


Vendors also include: Liga Masiva – Cof­fee and Teas | Deli­cias Sal­vadore­nas – Sal­vado­ran Pas­tries | Estrellita’s Snacks – Yucca and Plan­tain Chips | Neo Cocoa – Truf­fles | Sabores del Sur – Alfa­jores and Empanadas | Onig­illy – Japan­ese Snacks | Pick-A-Peck Pick­les – Pick­les | 18 Rea­sons – Classes for Food Lovers | De La Paz – Cof­fee and Teas | End­less Sum­mer Sweets – Ket­tle Corn and Caramel Apples | En Vie Nat­u­rals – Bath and Body Prod­ucts | Kim Jensen Mosaics – Arti­san Mosaics | J. Telford Tex­tiles – Dec­o­ra­tive Tex­tiles | Meat­pa­per – Mag­a­zines and Posters | Mimi McCurry’s – Chimichurri | Mix­coatl – Mex­i­can Arti­san Crafts | Rub­ber Ducky Soap Co – Bath and Body Prod­ucts | Spiffy Mutts – Pet Fash­ion | Stone­house Olive Oil – Olive Oils | Sweets Col­lec­tion – Mex­i­can Gel­latins | 3 Fish Stu­dios – Art Prints | Urban Bazaar – Kitchen­wares | Yvonne’s South­ern Sweets – Pra­lines and Cook­ies | Mex­ico by Hand – Mex­i­can Kitchen­wars and Crafts | House Kom­bucha – Kom­bucha | and more…

I hope to see you there!

Cheese and Cheesemakers of Wisconsin

Wisconsin is not just dairy country, but cheese country. In fact 90% of the milk Wisconsin produces goes into cheese. The state took home more awards than any other at this years American Cheese Society conference. License plates in Wisconsin don't really say "Eat Cheese or Die" but they might as well!

While I was a guest on a recent tour of Wisconsin, I did spend my own cold hard cash to buy cheese from some of my favorite cheesemakers. Here are just a few of those I met, and a rundown of what I bought from them.


I met Tony Hook of Hook's Cheese at the Dane Country Farmer's Market. Tony has a sparkle in his eye and gave me a Cheshire cat grin when I asked too many nosy questions about how he makes his cheese. He makes an amazing number of very fine aged cheddar and blue cheeses. I adore his washed rind Tilston Point Blue, named after Stilton. It's rich and creamy and has a terrific bite. The texture is crumbly but it can be sliced. I also think it is a tremendous value. Of course I paid a pittance at the farmer's market but even in stores it is very reasonably priced.


After meeting Willi Lehner of Bleu Mont Dairy, seeing his beautiful caves and tasting his cheeses, I couldn't wait to bring some of his cheese home to share. Willi, who has dual American and Swiss citizenship, learned to make cheese in Switzerland, where his parents are from. He is creative in his approach, and deeply committed to environmental sustainability, but it is his focus on quality that struck me the most. He is more concerned about making the best possible cheese he can, than about making the most cheese or the most money. He makes his cheese from some of the finest milk available, straight from the cows at Uplands. He makes two similar cheeses, Alpine Renegade and a bandaged cheddar. The cheddar is my favorite because it has such depth, with lots of tang and toasty flavor. It's pricey, but worth every penny.


I am sure Brenda Jensen's sheep adore her. She is so gentle and friendly and yet passionate about making cheese and running Hidden Springs Farm and dairy in a humane and sustainable manner. Her soft sheep's milk cheese, Driftless, tastes a bit like ricotta, only better. Her latest cheese, Meadow Melody is a combination of cow and sheep's milk cheese making it more affordable but just as delicious as her other cheeses. It's semi-firm, grassy and has notes of brown butter.

I also purchased cheese from another award-winning cheesemaker who unfortunately I didn't get a chance to meet this time around. Marieke Penterman of Hollands Family Cheese is a Wisconsin dairy farmer who emigrated here from the Netherlands in 2002. She makes a fantastic gouda, that is aged over 18 months. While I love gouda melted on toast, this cheese is too precious to use for cooking. A thin slice and a piece of apple is heavenly.

You might think I only met "artisanal" cheesemakers but that's not the case. I went to three very modern cheesemaking facilities, including Emmi Roth Kase. At home I buy their buttermilk blue and am now smitten with their smoky Moody Blue. While their Swiss machinery was state of the art, what struck me was how much was still being done by hand.

It's important to note that with cheese you are dealing with a living product and so it is not always the same. There is only so much you can control. A sample of every wheel of cheese is tasted in order to determine which rounds will be suitable for aging and for how long. Yes, there are timers and thermometers, but there are also knowledgeable cheesemakers involved in every step of the process. Even in the most modern "factory" settings cheesemakers are still artisans as far as I'm concerned, doing much by hand and tasting as they go.

My sincere thanks to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board for inviting me on their wonderful Fall tour!

Day 84! Kazakhstan - Alma-Ata Plov - Lamb Rice Pilaf up. Up Next, Kenya

Alma-Ata Plov - Lamb Pilaf

Joe, our Leopard Gecko

Wood stove's cranking, dog, cat, family and assorted reptilian pets all snuggled up against the cold weather that seems to have blanketed the Northeast (thankfully, minus the snow). Tonight is a great night to warm up the kitchen with a savory and interesting meal from Kazakhstan, Alma-Ata Plov, Lamb Pilaf, with Russian influences.

Pictured is Joe, a leopard gecko, the newest member of our family who arrived this week via neighborhood friends (thank you, Porters!) We never turn any creature in need away from our house. Notice his smile - he digs my cooking.

Located in Central Asia and Eastern Europe, Kazakhstan is a transcontinental country that neighbors Russia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and the Caspian Sea. Kazakhstan is also the world's largest exporter of potassium, a mineral that has all kinds of medicinal and nutritive properties.


One of the most interesting culinary traditions in Kazakhstan is the Dastarkhan, the traditional place where food is served and eaten. Meals as simple as tea and bread to grand and traditional feasts are served on a cloth, or cloth covered low table. Customs such as a designated tea pourer or that one may never step on or over a corner of the dastarkhan are century old traditions that carry on today.

Most meals in Kazakhstan consist of milk (mare, camel or cow) and horse meat, mutton, flat bread or fried dough balls. Food customs are infused by Uzbek, Uigur, Russian, Tatar and Korean traditions as well.

Alma-Ata Plov- Kazakhstan Rice Pilaf (Adapted from http://www.russianrecipes.co.nz/recipes/meatpilaf.html)

• 1/3 cup blanched slivered almonds, toasted
• 4 Tbsp. oil
• 2 large carrots, cut into julienne strips
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 1/2 cup dried apricots, chopped
• 2 cups long grain white rice
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 cup2 chicken stock
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tsp. grated orange rind
• 1 medium apple, cored and chopped (optional)
• Freshly chopped dill (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Scatter the almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden - about 7 minutes. Set aside and turn the oven down to 350F.
2. Heat the oil in a very large frying pan over a medium high flame. When just smoking, add the cubed lamb and saute for 6 minutes or until well browned.
3. Take the meat out of the frying pan and set aside. Turn the heat down slightly and saute the carrots in the oil for 3 minutes, stirring.
4. Add the onions an continue to saute for another 6 minutes until soft and lightly colored. Stir in the dried apricots, raisins and rice. Cook for 2 minutes until the rice is coated with the oil and becomes opaque.
5. Add the meat to the rice mixture, season to taste, then pour over the chicken stock, orange juice and rind and water. Bring to a boil, then transfer to a large casserole dish an place in the oven.
6. Bake 40 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed.
7. Remove the Plov from the oven, stir in the chopped apple, top with almonds and dill and transfer to a large serving dish, making a neat mound.

Final Assessment: Oops, I forgot to add the apple, but the toasted almonds and dill absolutely make the dish and compliment the lamb and fruit. A great and delicious meal.

Day 83! Jordan: Mixed Grill, Lamb & Chicken Shwarma Sandwiches - Up Next Kazakhstan

This is the perfect meal for a Sunday night. Prep was minimal, marinade was quick to make and assemblage (I love that word), was equally uncomplicated. Uncomplicated is good.








And, I gotta say, Middle Eastern food is so damn good. Lemons, tomatoes, garlic, onions, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cayenne all combined for a heady sensory experience: the smell and color of the spices are exotic and deeply rich,  and the tastes concurrently  complex, light, and warm.

Located on the East bank of the River Jordan in Western Asia, Jordan is officially known as the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Jordan neighbors Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria and Palestine/Israel.  Overall, Jordan has an arid climate as found in the Arabian Desert. However, to the north is the fertile crescent, which allows for growing an interesting variety. Humus, Tabbouleh, Baklava, lamb and chicken and Arabian coffee are all staples commonly found in this beautiful country.

I used jalapeño peppers as a topping for the Shwarma,
but if you don't like your food hot, omit them.

After marinating the meat, grill or broil it, but
do not overcook or you'll a tough and chewy shwarma.

Yogurt cools the heat of the spice and jalapeños;
marinated eggplant and tomatoes add zest
and richness to the shwarma.

Mixed Grill - Lamb and Chicken Shwarma

 Mixed Grill Shwarma Sandwich

• 1/2 pound lamb, cut into strips
• 1/2 pound chicken breast, cut into strips
• 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp. black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. cayenne
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 onion, minced
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 cup lemon juice
• 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
• 6 large sections pita bread
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 6 slices picked eggplant (optional - I used marinated eggplant)
• 3 serrano or jalapeño peppers, stems and seeds removed, chopped
• Yogurt to taste

1. Place the meat in a glass bowl.
2. In another bowl, combine the spices, salt, garlic, Onion bay leaf, lemon jice and vinegar, stir well and pour it over the meat.
3. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
4. Drain the meat from the marinade and pat dry.
5. Grill the meat over a hot charcoal or gas grill until done - about 10 minutes, turning often.
6. Divide the meat into the pita bread sections, add tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and a tablespoon or more of the yogurt.

Final Assessment: Slammin'