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Sunday, March 13, 2011

Day 114! Mongolia - Buuz ( Бууз) Dumplings - Up Next, Montenegro


Sometimes the simplest food turns out to be the best. These Mongolian "Buuz" dumplings which are commonly eaten steamed, were not only fun and easy to make but surprisingly tasty, despite only using garlic, onions and caraway seeds to season the ground lamb filling. Topped with a little bit of butter and fresh ground pepper, my crew gobbled these up in seconds. Whether you're looking for a fun project to do with kids, or a treat for no special reason, these dumplings are ideal. Any ground meat could be substituted for lamb, but I think lamb is the thing.

Located in East and Cental Asia, Mongolia is bordered by Russia to the north and China to the south, east and west. Although Mongolia does not border Kazakhstan, it is only 24 miles from the country's eastern tip.

Founded by Genghis Khan in 1206, Mongolia gained independence from China until 1921 and finally achieved international recognition as recently as 1945. Following this period, Mongolia was heavily influenced by Russia and the Soviet Union, but in 1990, the country formed a multi-party system and constitution, and in 1992, a market economy emerged. The Tibetan Buddhist culture predominates in Mongolia.

Cusine in Mongolia reflects both the extreme continental climate, which reaches temperatures of -40C, and the nomadic life style that 30% of the population practices. For that reason, dairy, meat and animal fats with very few spices or vegetables, are the basis for most Mongolian diets. Just as the Arctic Inuits subsist on a diet rich in animal fat, so too, the Mongolian's - particularly those who work outside, insulate their bodies against the cold in this way. Food is influenced by Chinese and Russian traditions, and meats such as mutton, cattle, horse and yak are typical.  Yogurt, curds and kefir are commonly eaun dairy products.














Buuz - Steamed Mongolian Dumplings (Adapted from Mongol Food)

Dough
2 cups flour
3/4-1 cup water

Mix flour and water together with a wooden spoon until blended and dough is smooth and elastic, but not dry. If you need to add a little water, do so a teaspoon at a time to avoid making the dough too sticky.
On a floured surface, pull off golf ball sized pieces. Using the palm of your hand, gently flatten out.
Next, roll out a 6-7-inch circles.


Filling
1 1/2 lbs. ground lamb
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. caraway seeds
salt and pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients until thoroughly blended (your hands will work best).

Holding the circle of dough in your hand, fill each circle with a tablespoon of the filling. Starting on one side, lift the dough up and around the filling and pinch it between your thumb and forefinger, working your way around the dumpling, leaving a small opening at the top. 

Using a metal or bamboo steamer, place dumplings (try not to crowd them) side by side and steam for approximately 12-15 minutes. Remove, top with a little butter and season with freshly ground black pepper.

Final Assessment: These are wonderful, delicious and easy to make. They're perfect as snack, accompanied by soup or as an appetizer before a meal. Which ever you choose, these little dumplings are all kinds of divine.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Day 113.5 - Homemade Twinkies - With How-To Video



As a as rule, I blame my kids for (frequent) lapses in my ever-declining mental acuity - trust me - those savages boys deserve it. So, the blame for today's foray into Twinkidom rests squarely on the shoulders of my son, Tim. Yes, the one who challenged me to cook my way around the world, and who, several days ago begged me make Twinkies, using his best "please Mommy, I really love you" face in all its teenage cuteness. How could I say no? Plus, I knew I'd be relentlessly pestered until I caved. See how tough I am?

But how? Turning to Google, I shouted out loud when I discovered that there is indeed such a thing as a canoe pan that turns out perfectly shaped Twinkies. Will wonders never cease?! It took me about 5 seconds to get my credit card out, and for $20 I got the canoe pan AND the filling injector, plus free shipping. Shazzam!

 Needless to say, I was more excited about this find than just about anything in recent memory, and quickly gave up trying to hide my giddy anticipation, despite a lot of eye rolling and "there she goes again" comments from the Riff-Raff who live in my house. Even my sweet shepherd, who supports my every endeavor with unfailing loyalty, looked at me sideways and shook his handsome head.

Click on the link for ha how-to video, courtesy of my friends at How2Heroes:

http://how2heroes.com/videos/dessert-and-baked-goods/homemade-twinkies

Finally, this afternoon I brought a few of these over to my talented friend and artist Kate, who runs the beautiful Kamala boutique. Taking one bite, Kate promptly declared that these must be eaten while naked, preferably fed to you. So there you have it...plans for the weekend.












Twinkilicious Twinkies - (Adapted from Simple Math Bakery)
Makes 24 Cakes

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons corn starch
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup canola oil
3/4 cup cold water
1 tsp. vanilla
7 eggs, separated

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Spray a canoe pan (you can use muffin tins as well) - be sure to spray well because the batter is very sticky.

Using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites until they are very stiff. They should hold their peak when removed from the bowl. Set aside.

Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the flour, corn starch, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together or beat on low speed for a minute, until combined. Add oil, water, vanilla extract, and egg yolks. Beat on medium speed until smooth.

Using a rubber spatula, gently scoop 1/3 of the egg whites into the batter. Fold the egg whites in by slicing the the spatula through the center of the bowl, gently scooping batter from the bottom and wrapping it over the top. Turn the bowl 1/4 turn and repeat until the egg whites are barely visible. Repeat this process with each remaining 1/3 of the egg whites.

Spoon the batter into the pan, filling the wells 2/3 full. Bake for 8-12 minutes, or until cakes are gold brown and just starting to pull away from the sides of the pan. Cakes will puff up when cooking, but will settle when they cool. Cool cakes in the pan for 5 minutes, then gently remove from the pan using a rubber spatula. All them to cool on a rack, flat side down.

Filling

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1/2 cup milk
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar

In a small saucepan, heat the flour and milk over medium heat, stirring constantly. When the mixture becomes a paste (about 5 minutes), remove from heat and allow to cool for 1 minute. Stir in the vanilla extract. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and set aside to cool completely.

Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the cooled milk mixture and beat for 5 minutes, until smooth and creamy.

Use the pastry filler that comes with the pan (or a pastry bag fitted with a round tip) to fill the cakes. Place the tip 1/2 way into the cake and squeeze gently. Holding the cake in your palm while filling it will allow you to feel when it is full. Fill each cake 3 times to ensure that each bite contains filling.

Final Assessment: There are dozens of Twinkie recipes available, but my favorite comes from Simple Math Bakery. In particular, I liked that the filling used butter rather than vegetable shortening, which certainly has it's place in cooking, but tends to make frosting slimy. And, of course, there are no chemicals or additives in this homemade version. Just real, honest to goodness Twinkiliciousness.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Day 113 - Monaco - Langoustine a la Provencale - Up Next, Mongolia




This was one of the most interesting dishes I've made thus far because it used cocoa nibs, something I'd never heard of. Once I found the recipe, I had to Google "cocoa nibs" to find out what the mystery ingredient was. Turns out they're simply roasted cocoa bean pieces that have a very slightly chocolaty (not sweet) nutty flavor and crunchy texture and can be used in lieu of nuts, in baking, on ice cream or yogurt...basically anywhere you want crunch and rich flavor.  And, as so often happens with hard to locate items, Whole Foods hooked me up once again.

Original Painting
Joelle Feldman
The Mediterranean flavors of this meal: lemons, oranges, thyme, bay leaves, garlic, tomatoes, onions and olive oil which made a "ragout", all heaped atop langoustinos, a much smaller version of what we know as lobsters, made for a light, delicious and beautiful dish. This is the kind of eating that satisfies all the senses and is kind to the waistline. Dare I say, "winning"?

The other coolsweet thing that happened today is that I picked up the first batch of my spring salad CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) greens from Hopestill Farm - beautiful baby spinach and kale that were the backbone of tonight's meal. Shout out to Richard Robinson for including me in this opportunity to benefit from and support local agriculture.

Officially the principality of Monaco, the country of Monaco is a micro-state located in south western Europe on the northern central coast of the Mediterranean Sea, neighboring France and Italy. Monaco is a constitutional monarchy, headed by Prince Albert II. Although the country is independent, it's national defense is France's responsibility.

Because of Monaco's subtropical climate and mountains, it is a country tourists are naturally drawn to. Seafood, especially cod, is a staple of the country's cuisine. And, due to it's proximity to France and Italy, the cuisine reflects the exquisite pastry and lovely pasta both countries are known for. Vegetables, fruit and grains are all enjoyed in this beautiful country.







Langoustines a la Procencale Recipe (Adapted from Celtnet.org.uk)

1 lb. langoustine meat
10 Tbsp. olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely sliced
1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
3/4 cup carrots, diced
3/4 cup onions, diced
3/4 cup celery, diced
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
flat leaf parsley for garnish
4 tomatoes, blanched, peeled and diced (I didn't blanche or peel them)
cocoa nibs, to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Mixed young salad greens

Saute langoustine in olive oil for about 3 minutes until heated through. Remove to keep warm.
Heat remaining oil and saute garlic, orange and lemon zest gently for about 5 minutes. Add carrots, onions, celery and herbs and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft. Remove the bay leaves and thyme then season with salt and pepper.
Stir in the diced tomato and cocoa nibs and allow to heat through. Divide the langoustines between 4 plates, spoon the ragout over and around the langoustine and salad and serve.

Final Assessment: I think I need to go to Monaco to sample more of their cuisine. I love to eat like this - simple, clean food, fresh ingredients, easy to prepare, satisfying and beautiful to look at. A+

Betelnut "Offal Good" Secret Menu

I haven't said much about my new role as editor at BlackboardEats, but I'm breaking my silence today. I really enjoy assigning reviews, sharing deals at top restaurants and working with chefs and restaurateurs to create exclusive culinary experiences. Most weeks subscribers get 30% off at a noteworthy restaurant, but today something a bit different is on offer that I'm excited to tell you about. Chef Alex Ong at Betelnut has put together a menu utilizing offal, in particular veal sweetbreads, chicken livers, lamb tongue and fish heads. Chef Alex Ong grew up in Malaysia, a country of many culinary influences including Thai, Chinese and Indian and his dishes reflect those flavors. Three of the dishes are based on Malaysian street food dishes and one is a very special curry served for celebrations.

veal sweetbreads
One of the Chinese style dishes is salt and pepper veal sweetbreads topped with fresh ginger, garlic and Szechuan peppercorn topped with scallions, five spice, and salt. This dish reminds me most of crispy calamari. The sweetbreads are mild and the vibrant Asian flavors make the dish irresistible.

lamb tongue
A dish with Northern Malaysian and Thai influence is the cured lamb tongue served cold with lime, galanga and crispy taro strips. This almost looks like a sashimi plate! It's very elegant and light.

chicken livers
Another Chinese influenced dish is the crispy chicken livers that come with black pepper sauce and roasted onions. The chef soaks the livers in milk three times then dredges them in cornstarch and deep fries them. The exterior becomes crunchy but the interior remains soft and creamy. You'll want a beer to go with this. Like anything that is fried and crispy, these are addictive.

fish head curry
Nonya cuisine is unique a combination of Chinese and Malay styles. In the South in Singapore you'll find more Indonesian and Indian influences. I've read that fish head curry might have been created in the 1950s by a Keralan chef who wanted to use every edible part of the fish. It is cooked in an Indian style curry of coconut milk, tamarind and shrimp paste. It's a dish served at home for celebrations like birthdays or anniversaries. The cheek and collar meat are most succulent but the curry has okra and cauliflower in it too. It's pure comfort food, whether or not you ate in Singapore.

Betelnut Restaurant
Betelnut is consistently chosen as one of the Top 100 Restaurants by the San Francisco Chronicle. The restaurant is lively and has wonderful atmosphere, with vintage 1920's Shanghai style. While people typically come in for what the chef calls "the happy meal" meaning Cecilia's minced chicken in lettuce cup and Szechuan string beans, I hope they will come to try some of his Malaysian menu specials, available for the next two months for BlackboardEats subscribers only.

If you'd like to try these amazing dishes, I hope you will subscribe to BlackboardEats.com in San Francisco, download a passcode today and enjoy as many of these dishes as you'd like!
Note: These dishes will be available for 60 days, for subscribers who download passcodes.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Oliveto Restaurant

Oliveto
If you live in the Bay Area, it's likely you know about Oliveto. It opened 25 years ago, is located in Rockridge, Oakland and serves wonderful Italian food, with a Slow Food sensibility. You can always count on Oliveto for great pasta, roasted meat and fish, and a commitment to using the best quality ingredients. It's also been the home for several great Bay Area chefs notably Paul Canales, Michael Tusk and Paul Bertolli.

Hoffman farm hen rolata
What's new at Oliveto? A lot, to tell you the truth. For one, there is a new chef, Jonah Rhodehamel. I recently ate at the restaurant and can tell you he approaches cooking with finesse and sense of balance. It's hard to believe someone so young has already spent time at such venerable restaurants as La Folie, Americano and Quince. I particularly loved his Hoffman hen "rolata" stuffed with sausage. It reminded me of a similar preparation I had at Frances last year.

Oliveto cafe pizza
I've always been fond of the pizza served in the cafe downstairs, but it's actually gotten better now that they are using whole grain flour from Community Grains. The flour is very smooth, not rough but has a nutty flavor that really complements cheese, mushrooms and more. Unlike other whole wheat flours, Community Grains makes a flour that is not enriched. You actually get all the parts of the grain, ground together. The flour will soon be available for retail customers.

Tred flint polenta
Another fabulous grain making it's way into Oliveto's menu is red flint polenta. It takes a full three hours to fully hydrate and cook, but the result is something special. Flecked with red, it has texture and body and cooks up thicker than regular yellow cornmeal. I had it topped with egg and greens.

Christmas limas
So new that it's not even on the menu yet, are heirloom beans that Oliveto sourced from a farmer who grows a huge variety of legumes, some that are very unusual. Which ones Oliveto will end up using is still up for discussion. At a recent lunch I got to try the pigeon peas, cannellini and Christmas limas. They were prepared very simply to let their natural flavors shine through. The pigeon peas had good texture, but were not as flavorful as the cannellini which had a natural sweetness and the Christmas limas which were unbelievably meaty. They really tasted as if they had been cooked with beefy bones. The beans were just delicious served up plain, so I can't wait to see how they will make it onto the menu.

Not new, but an annual tradition, Oliveto is hosting their Whole Hog dinners March 9-12, 2011. Each night a different pig is featured, check out the schedule for more details. This is a super popular event but some later seatings are still available.

Oliveto
5655 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
510.547.5356

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Day 112! Moldova - Roast Pork Paprikash (Porc Prajita Cu Paprika) and Moldovan Mamaliga (Polenta) Up Next, Monaco


Were it  not for my husband's best friend stopping over mid-meal preparation, I would have written up this lovely Roast Pork Paprikash dish from Moldova hours ago. But you know, lots of chatting, a little wine, a couple of beers, sporadic chopping, intermittent sauteing, a few photographs and 4 hours later, I'm just sitting down to put it all together. Dag, a girl can be so easily distracted when friends and beer enter her kitchen. Truthfully, I wouldn't have it any other way...I'm just typing a tiny bit slower than I ordinarily would if my butcher block island hadn't been unexpectedly transformed into a bar. Oh, right, the meal...

Located in eastern Europe, Moldova is a landlocked country that shares it's borders with Romania and Ukraine. In 1991, Moldova declared independence as part of the dissolution of the Soviet Union. A strip of the Moldova's internationally recognized territory on the east bank of the Dniester River, has been under de-facto control of a bureaucratic government of Transnistria since 1990, but hopes to become part of the European Union.

Moldova's cuisine can be described as traditional European food, using beef, pork, potatoes, cabbage and cereal as the basis of it's dishes. The country's fertile black soil is ideal for growing grapes, fruit and vegetables and supports live stock who produce milk used in many different types of cheeses. Moldovan agriculture is highly regarded for it's use of traditional farming methods that produce ecologically clean food. Traditions that influence Moldova's cuisine includes Ukrainian, Bulgarian, Gagauz, Lithuanian, Russian, Turkish and Greek flavors.











Moldovan Roast Pork Paprikash (Porc Prajita Cu Paprika) - (Adapted from foodgeeks)

3 lb. pork roast
4 cloves garlic, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
3 small onions, coarsely chopped
1 Italian (light green frying) pepper, cored, seeded and quartered
4 fresh, ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 rib celery with leaves, cut into 4 pieces
1 1-1/2 cups beef stock or canned broth
2 Tbsp. sweet Hungarian paprika
10 oz. fresh white mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced
1 scant Tbsp. all purpose flour
1/3 cup dry red wine
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 lg. clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 350 F
With a sharp knife, make deep slits all over the meat and insert the garlic slivers, as deep as possible, into the slits. rub the meat with salt and pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large casserole over medium heat. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Off the heat, spread the mustard over the meat with a spatula.
Add the onions, Italian pepper, tomatoes, celery and stock to the casserole. Sprinkle the meat and vegetables with 1/2 teaspoon of the paprika and roast for 1 hour, turning the meat, and basting with the pan juices from time to time. Prick the meat with a meat with a fork; when the juices run clear, the meat is done, but do not over cook.
Remove the roast from the casserole, place on a cutting board, and cover with foil.
Strain the pan juices and skim off the fat. Puree the vegetables in a blender. Add the puree to the pan juices.
Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a small heavy sauce pan over medium heat. Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2 minutes. Whisk in the pan juices.
Add the wine, lemon juice, minced garlic, thyme, parsley and additional salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered for about 10 minutes.
Stir in the mushrooms and the remaining paprika and simmer for 5 minutes more.
Carve the pork into thin slices and arrange on a serving platter, Pass the sauce separately in a sauce boat.

Moldovan Mamaliga (Polenta) - (Adapted from Foodgeeks)

3-1/2 cups water
Salt to taste
1 cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal
5 Tbsp. butter

Combine the water and salt in a heavy sauce pan and bring to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons of the cornmeal in a steady stream and whisk until the water returns to boiling. Next add the rest of the cornmeal, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook the mixture, covered until thickened, about 10 minutes.
Add the butter, a piece at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes more.
Transfer to a medium sized oval bowl and flatten the surface with a wet spoon. Let stand 5 minutes.
Invert the mamaliga onto a plate and sprinkle with parsley.

Final Assessment: This was great meal and would be perfect for a dinner party or family gathering. I wouldn't suggest planning it unless you have some time, as it takes some preparation beyond what one would reasonably expect to jump into on a week night. The sauce, which I understand Moldovan's love, made the meal. Pureeing the vegetables released all their glorious flavors and roasted-sugariness that was plate-licking good. And, anything with mushrooms is boss.