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Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Behind the scenes with Joanne Weir

Joanne Weir on set
It may come as a surprise, but the best thing about being a food writer isn't the food, it's the people you meet. And Joanne Weir is certainly one of them. I met her years ago and we quickly became friends. I've given her advice on blogging and social media and she has always been there when I needed career counseling and the inside scoop on folks in our industry. She's a genuinely nice and generous person full of enthusiasm and desire to help others learn to cook and have fun. Which brings me to her new show-Joanne Weir's Cooking Confidence. It's a natural progression from her most recent shows where she takes individual students into the kitchen and in no time gets them cooking.

Chris Styler setting up
"You stayed longer than anyone!" said Joanne as I was leaving. Despite the cramped space, I had a hard time tearing myself away. I wanted to see her at work and to share some tidbits about her new show. First of all it's shot in her home kitchen which gets transformed into a television studio for filming. As executive producer this time around, Joanne has assembled a crack team including director Paul Swenson who has worked with Lidia Bastianich, Eric Ripert and Christopher Kimball, culinary producer Chris Styler who has worked with Julia Child, Jacques Pepin and Jamie Oliver and a cameraman she has worked with since day one, eleven years ago. The result is a smooth quality to the process where everyone seems to know exactly what they are doing and anticipate each other's needs.

Ahi burger

So what's different about the new show and what can you look forward to?

* A wider range of recipes
While Joanne is known for Mediterranean cuisine this time you'll get her take on all kinds of food including Indian, Asian and North African. Everyone on set was raving about her Moroccan chicken and sweet potato salad with pumpkin seeds. The day I was there she made an ahi burger with wasabi mayo and a crunchy slaw with grapefruit spiked with ginger and also an Italian pasta with tomato and cream and a salad made with ribbons of zucchini, summer squash and daikon radish. Look for ways to use more unusual ingredients too like farro and fregola.

*Great tips
I always learn something when I watch Joanne's shows. From little things like how to peel ginger with a spoon to making mayonnaise with nothing but mustard, an egg yolk and oil. I've always wondered what the heck to do with red pepper jelly and in this series she make corn muffins stuffed with a spoonful of it. And did you know if a label on produce begins with a "9" it means it's organic?

* Video app
This series will not only have an accompanying cookbook but also an app that has 20+ recipes and exclusive content. Look for it this Fall on iTunes.

* Confidence
You'll see it in the students and you'll see it in Joanne who literally seems more "at home" than ever before. I talked to her director about it and he said "She's evolved, you're seeing more of the real Joanne." Without missing a beat, she balances responding to student's questions with making sure every cooking step is explained. On the day I was there everything was being shot in real time, there was no swapping out of dishes. She's the quintessential cooking teacher on PBS and really what more could you ask for?

Monday, August 29, 2011

Day 158! Senegal - Poulet Yassa (Chicken Yassa) - Up Next, Serbia


This spicy recipe comes courtesy of my friend Kafui  who is Ghanaian, but works for USAID's West Africa Trade Hub, based in Dakar, Senegal. Kafui and I worked together on the Taste of Africa cookbook, which was one of the best international cooking experiences I've ever had. Thanks to her, I'm able to bring you an authentic Senegalese meal that I hope does justice to both the beautiful country and the people tonight's dinner represents. A traditional dish from the Casamance region of Senegal, Poulet Yassa (Chicken Yassa), is best marinated overnight to produce a tender, spicy dish that is enjoyed in traditional Senegalese homes and restaurants. Thank you, Kafui - you are a wonderful and generous wealth of information!

Just a quick word about this post....yesterday as I was preparing the marinade for the chicken, and about to photograph the process, we lost our electricity due to Hurricane Irene that swept up the East Coast, taking down trees and power lines in her wake. Therefore, I didn't have enough light to photograph the process as I ordinarily would have. Hopefully, there's enough here that you'll still get the picture - so to speak.

Located in the westernmost region of the African continent, Senegal is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, Mauritania, Mali, Guinea Bissau and Guinea. The southern region of Casamance shares its border with The Gambia...all countries I've cooked in thus far! Due to a long French presence in the country, from which it gained independence in 1960, along with a lengthy tradition of trade with North African and Arab countries, Senegal has many foreign influences, but maintains its own rich and colorful traditions, evidenced by its unique customs and cuisine.  A hot, tropical climate, Sengal boasts some of the most beautiful beaches and coral reefs in the world. Dakar, the capital of the country, is a sophisticated and diverse city that is home to many Senegalese ethnic groups,  Europeans, Lebanese, Mauritanians, Moroccans, Chinese and Cape Verdeans (by no means a complete list). Food processing, mining, textile, petroleum refineries and tourism are intrinsic to the country's economy. Exports such as fish, chemicals, cotton, groundnuts and calcium phosphate make Senegal an important player in t e global economy.

Cuisine in Senegal has French, Portuguese and North African influences. From chatting with Kafui, I have a feeling much of the food can be very hot and spicy...I'm pretty sure she would have added many more hot peppers and cayenne to this dish than my western taste buds are used to! Fish, chicken, lamb (stewed and/or marinated) and eggs are all good sources of protein, but as Senegal has a very large Islamic population, pork is not eaten. Peanuts, couscous, white rice, sweet potatoes, lentils, black eyed peas, tomatoes and onions all also commonly eaten.  Bissap, ginger, mango buy (fruit from the baobab tree), along with plantains are also staple foods. Maybe someday I'll get to go to Senegal and have the honor and pleasure of sharing an authentic Senegalese meal with Kafui...until then, my attempt at recreating Poulet Yassa will have to suffice!

The basics for the the marinade
 For best results, marinate chicken overnight
 Reserved marinade for the sauce

 I browned my chicken on the grill 
Finis!

Poulet Yassa (Chicken Yassa) (Adapted from The Congo Cookbook)

1/2 cup cooking oil
1 chicken, cut up into serving-sized pieces
four (or more onions), cut up
8 Tbsp. lemon juice
8 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 bay leaf
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard (optional)
1-1 Tbsp. chicken bouillon or base
1 chili pepper, cleaned and finely chopped
cayenne or red pepper, black pepper and salt to taste
1 small cabbage, cut into chunks (optional)
a few carrots, cut into chunks (optional)

Mix all ingredients (except optional vegetables), the more onions the better, and allow chicken to marinate in a glass dish in the refrigerator for a few hour or overnight. Remove chicken from the marinade, reserving marinade. Cook chicken according to one of the following methods:
  • Grill over a charcoal or gas grill until chicken is lightly browned, but not done. 
  • Saute chicken for a few minutes on each side in a hot frying pan until brown.
While chicken is browning, remove onions from marinade and saute them in a heavy pot or large pan for a few minutes. Add remaining marinade and the optional vegetables and bring to a slow boil and cook  for 10 minutes. Reduce heat.

Add chicken to the sauce, cover and simmer until chicken is done - about 45 minutes- 1 hour depending how well you browned the chicken before adding it to the pot.

Serve with rice or couscous, mixed with chick peas and raisins.

Ginger beer or green tea make a nice accompaniment.

Final Assessment: Wow! This will be a regularly featured dish in our house. Because the chicken marinated overnight, it fell off the bones once cooked through. I highly recommend browning it on the grill it if you can. The blend of lemons, garlic, onions, peppers and mustard was terrific. I served it with couscous, mixed with a handful of raisins and chickpeas...A+

© 2010-2011, What's Cooking in Your World? Sarah Commerford/All Rights Reserved

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Arugula and Blueberry Salad with Lemon Poppy Seed Dressing



This simple salad comes together in just a few minutes. I like the way the sweetness of blueberries plays off the peppery arugula. A tangy dressing holds it all together.

Lemon Poppy Seed Dressing
Ingredients:
1/8 cup lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil
½ teaspoon poppy seeds
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoon honey

Instructions:
Whisk all ingredients in small bowl until emulsified.

Salad
Ingredients:
2 cups arugula
2 cups spinach
½ cup blueberries
1/3 cup toasted nuts – I like to use pecans or almonds

Instructions:
Place ingredients in large bowl and toss with the lemon poppy seed dressing.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Day 157! Scotland - UK - Goibniu Home Brew Beer -- Up Next, Senegal!



Before I get any mail correcting this post, let me state up front that I know Scotland is not technically a sovereign country, although from a historic stand point, it could certainly be considered so. Rather, Scotland, Wales and England all make up the entity known as the UK. And, although each has their own distinct culture, food, traditions and dialects/accents, all share common citizenship, government, currency, armed forces and membership in the UN.  But, since I'm currently working my way through the "S" countries, and  my awesome friend, Michael Roman just happens to know a thing or two about home brewing, Scottish beer seemed like a logical, (slightly self-serving) choice. Hence a trip to Deja Brew, in Shrewsbury, MA, where I had the time of my life learning to brew my first ever batch of beer with the help of a generous and awesome group of brew masters.

Seeing as I am a total beer brewing newbie, I asked Michael, professional photographer extraordinaire and all around great person, to contribute a guest post, along with the beautiful photographs (with the exception of the beer in the glass and the bottles, which you can tell were taken by me, the wannabe photographer) you see on this page.  Please check out the link to view his work or to register for a class. Take it away, Michael.............

When Sarah first mentioned the idea of a guest blog about home brew, we wanted to tie it in to a country of the world. The obvious choice? Goibniu (pronounced Goiv – new)! Other than the fact that this has been one of my favorite recipes, its name comes from the Celtic god of manhood. Goibniu was a sword-smith whose place of worship was the smith-works. Before a battle, he bestowed a blessing on the swords and weapons with....wait for it...beer.  So we have a tie-in to the blog and a great excuse to go brew a batch of beer! In case you're wondering about the flavor, Goibniu is a nice malty ale, tipping the scale at 7.5% alcohol content. Twelve pounds of grain in the mash make this a delicious, smooth beer, with a slightly sweet finish.

To be honest, I have to state up front that “home brew” is a slight misnomer in this case. I actually brew my beers at a place called Deja Brew.  They have a vast collection of recipes, all the ingredients necessary, kettles that are larger than anything I could muster at home (so the amount of beer per batch is more rewarding than what one could typically produce at home), and, perhaps best of all, they handle all the clean up. It of course costs more to brew at their facility than it would at home, but the convenience is well worth the extra cost, and the beer still ends up being cheaper than what you can get at a retail store. And the fun of creating something from scratch is enhanced by the fact that you can sample some of the beers Deja Brew has on hand in order to help you decide on a recipe to use either for your batch that day or for one in the future. And it’s also a great social occasion to brew with several friends or coworkers. But on to the main point.

Happiest behind a camera, Michael
also has some mad brewing skills!
As a typical college student in the 1970’s I loved, and consumed, my share of beer. Until a funny thing happened to me, that is. While in college, I spent five months in Germany and  got to sample a wide and wonderful variety of beer. When I got back to the U.S., I quickly realized that my domestic beer drinking days were behind me. American beers were just so bland and all the same for the most part. There was a glimmer of hope for me when my good friend Greg brought over a six pack of a new beer in the mid 80’s. He was all excited about it and I felt bad having to tell him I just wasn’t all that fired up about beer. But he was right. This beer had flavor and body. It reminded me of the beer I used to have in Germany. The beer was Samuel Adams, and the timing was right at the start of the micro-brewery explosion in this country. I still didn't consider beer very often until one day at work when a couple of home brewers brought in the fruits of their labors and hosted a beer tasting party in the parking lot at the end of the day. One of the beers was so flavorful and delicious that I came to realize that beer, as my friend Kevin always used to say, “was not just for breakfast any more”! (the older readers of this post may remember the orange juice commercial from the 70’s or 80’s). The beer was Deja Brew’s Midnight Porter. Before I knew it,  I was hooked into the group of brewers who regularly meet at Deja Brew. These guys have opened my eyes to some recipes I may never have tried on my own, and it’s been a rewarding nine years in the meantime.

Okay, so Sarah and I had a mission. A mission to educate her readers to the joy and ease of making your own beer. We had to toil over a hot kettle, albeit one with some wonderful aromas coming from it, and countless time (countless because after enough sampling of the product, the concept of time got a little fuzzy) filling bottles with beer and running the capping machine, but, hey, somebody had to do this for you, the reader. And we were willing (hiccup) to suffer any sacrifice (hiccup) we had to in order to bring this post to the world (hiccup). Joining us were Sarah’s husband Liam and my brew buddy Mike, who was the one who first introduced me to Midnight Porter, which to this day remains another of my favorite recipes.


Here's how the brewing process goes: Many, many thanks to Deja Brew owners Ray and Donna, Head Brewer, Dave and Brewer Joe who patiently guided us through the process, sharing information, a little history and lots of culinary chemistry tips the night we brewed.

Our first step was to go see what was on tap that night and to pour some liquid refreshment to help us get through the task before us. The second step was to go to the recipe books and take out the one for Goibniu. There are so many recipes to choose from it can be a bit overwhelming to decide upon “the one”, but we didn’t have that problem this night.

The next step is to measure out the grains and grind them (called “milling”) in order to expose the starches. Then comes the mash process. This is where the grain, in a basket, is submerged in the kettle and steeped at 180 degrees for 30 minutes. During this time the starches are being converted into sugar, which the yeast will later convert to alcohol. The spent grain is then removed and pale malt extract is added. This is grain-based sugar that is designed to speed up the brewing process. If the extract was not added, the recipe would require a lot more grain, and a lot more time and effort in the mash process. One of the things about the extract is it carries some color and flavor from the grain that it was made from and this is reflected in the color and flavor of the beer.







The wort, as the mixture is now called, is brought to a boil which causes various chemical reactions as well as sterilizing the wort. Sterilization is important to keep wild yeast from spoiling the flavor and character of your beer. After the boil, the wort is simmered at just below the boiling point and hops are added for flavor and aroma.





It’s now time to move the wort to the fermentation tank where the yeast can be added to do their job. But first the wort needs to be cooled down which would otherwise kill the yeast. Deja Brew sends the wort through a heat exchanger on its way to the fermentation tank so there is no delay before adding the yeast. The fermentation process runs for 7 to 10 days during which time either all of the sugar is converted to alcohol or the amount of alcohol reaches the point where it kills off the yeast. I’m thinking the latter happened in our case. Goibniu is a very “high octane” beer. Yeast converts sugar into two waste products – alcohol and carbon dioxide. There is a valve on top of the tank that allows the carbon dioxide to escape but not let anything in from the outside. The valve is transparent and filled with water and you can see the CO2 bubbles going through it which makes it easy to know when the fermentation is done.

At this point the beer is moved to the “bright” tank, being filtered in the transfer process to remove the dead yeast and any other material that may have made it though the filter between the kettle and the fermentation tank. The “bright” tank is pressurized with CO2 and sits in a cold room for up to a week or so, at which point the beer is ready to be bottled.


The final step in the process is a return trip to Deja Brew on bottling day. The bottles are run through a sterilizing process and then the beer is transferred to the bottles and a hand operated capper adds the finishing touch. Again, it’s a rewarding time and a great social get together. And the fruits of your labors can be shared and enjoyed for months to come. 


But don’t wait too long to enjoy your beer. There are no preservatives and it will spoil over time, especially if you don’t keep it cool or cold. In fact, the beers all seem to peak in flavor about two weeks after bottling after which point they will slowly go downhill. I find it best to keep the beer in a “beer fridge” and finish them off within three months or so. Beers that are high in alcohol, like Goibniu, and/or lots of hops will last longer, but, hey, it’s beer, so why wait to drink it? My brewing buddy Mike has found some Goibnius in the back of his beer fridge more than a year after they were bottled, and reports that they are still a delicious treat.

Goibniu (recipe courtesy of Deja Brew and Dave Thompson, Head Brewer)

Grain
3 lbs. caravienne
3 lbs. crystal
3lbs. munich
2 lbs. caramalt
1 lb. roasted barley

Extracts
7 qts. pale malt
2 qts. adjunct
2 lbs. brown sugar

Bittering Hops
3 oz. kent golding

Finishing Hops
2 oz. fuggle
1 scoop Irish moss

Yeast
Irish dry yeat


© 2010-2011, What's Cooking in Your World? Sarah Commerford/All Rights Reserved 

Mango Cucumber Salad



I just love the way the cucumbers and mangoes look in this salad. The green and orange look so summery and playful. The addition of lavender syrup provides a fragrant boost of flavor.

Lavender Syrup
Ingredients:
½ cup water
1/8 cup sugar
1 tablespoon lavender

Instructions:
Bring all ingredients to a boil in small pan over high heat. When sugar is dissolved, strain and cool.

Salad
Ingredients:
2 mangos, diced
½ cucumber, shredded
3-4 tablespoons of lavender syrup

Instructions:
Mix mangos and cucumber with three to four tablespoons of the lavender syrup.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Peach Blackberry Cobbler Recipe

Peach Blackberry Cardamom Cobbler
Is there a more old-fashioned word than cobbler or cobbled? It brings to mind a shoemaker in a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale or those stone streets in Europe (the ones that are so treacherous if you're wearing high heels). Just the word alone is quaint, charming and feels handmade. Which of course brings me to the culinary version of cobbler. A cobbler is basically sweet biscuit dough formed into tiles and "cobbled" together on top of baked fruit. It's the kind of thing you can make year round, just varying the fruit with the season. Because it's so chilly in San Francisco in August, it's really the perfect dessert at the moment. We'll have to a while longer before making ice cream I'm afraid.

My most recent cobbler combines organically grown peaches I got from my friend Gayle who annually adopts a tree from the writer and farmer Mas Masumoto, dark as night blackberries from Driscoll's and a spice I am crazy about, cardamom. I recommend combining a couple types of fruit, it makes the cobbler prettier thanks to the contrasting colors, but also adds more texture, complex flavor and sweetness. I also recommend adding a bit of spice. If black pepper and mint had a love child, it would be cardamom. It's an exotic and aromatic spice, common in both Indian cuisine and in Nordic baking. I added a touch of it to both the fruit and the biscuit topping but it's still very subtle.

This cobbler is based on a Sara Moulton recipe. She makes a scaled down version that bakes in a one quart pan in the toaster oven (I use an 8x8 inch pan instead). It's really smart for small households because cobbler is best fresh from the oven. In fact, if you preheat the toaster oven and then get cooking I find it reaches temperature just at the point the cobbler is ready to bake.

Note: You can blanch and peel the peaches if you like, but I prefer leaving the skins on.

Peach Blackberry Cobbler Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

4 peaches, cut into 1/4 inch slices
1 1/2 cup blackberries
3 Tablespoons sugar
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon cardamom

Topping
1/2 cup flour
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup buttermilk plus more for the tops of the biscuits
1 teaspoon turbinado sugar

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine the peaches, blackberries, cornstarch, cardamom and sugar and toss gently to combine. Transfer to an 8 inch square baking pan.

In a bowl combine the flour sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom. Cut in the butter using a pastry blender until the mixture resembles the texture of small peas. Stir in the buttermilk to form a soft sticky dough. Knead into a ball then turn out onto a well-floured work surface and roll to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Use a biscuit cutter or wine glass to cut out 4 biscuits gathering the trimmings and rolling again as necessary. Arrange the biscuits over the fruit. Brush biscuits lightly with additional buttermilk using a pastry brush, sprinkle with turbinado sugar, and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm with or without vanilla ice cream.

Enjoy!

Monday, August 22, 2011

All about Dijon Mustard

Dijon mustard
I never expected to visit Dijon. But on my first trip to France, I asked my Parisian friends for suggestions for where to go and they said Dijon and nearby Beaune, so off I went. The historic capital of Burgundy, Dijon is a dramatic looking city with lots to do and see. It has many museums, churches, medieval buildings with gargoyles and stunning geometrically patterned roofs of green, white, yellow, black and terra cotta ceramic tiles.

When most people think Dijon, they think mustard. But Dijon is in wine country, home of Coq au Vin, Boeuf Bourguinon and lots of other rich and rustic dishes including the classic preparation of Escargot in garlic, butter and parsley. In addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté, the region is also known for Cremant de Bourgogne and cassis. It's worth noting that you can get to Dijon in under 2 hours from Paris if you take the TGV.

But let's talk mustard. If I had to choose one mustard only (currently I have 7 open jars in my fridge) it would be Dijon. It's mellow and sophisticated in color but with a spicy bite. It's made from brown or black mustard seeds and usually from white wine vinegar, though initially it was made with verjus, a kind of unripe grape juice. Dijon is where you'll find the original Maille shop, founded in 1747, the windows filled with handsome ceramic mustard jars of all sizes. There is another Maille boutique in Paris (right near Fauchon and Laduree at place de la Madeleine).

I'm rather fond of the Maille brand (now a subsidiary of Unilever), it works particularly well in recipes and is not very expensive. If you substitute Grey Poupon (owned by Kraft), you will notice a difference (and it does not work as well in vinaigrette recipes). In France you can buy Dijon mustard flavored with everything from cassis to blue cheese to cognac, nuts, mushrooms, and piment d'espelette. Having been on the giving and receiving end, a small jar of flavored Dijon mustard makes a fine gift.

Here are some ways to use Dijon mustard (other than on sandwiches and hot dogs)

* Combine with oil and vinegar to make a classic vinaigrette

* Add to quiche recipes, especially quiche lorraine

* Slather on fish fillets before baking

* Mix with honey to make a dipping sauce, also great on salmon

* Add a touch to macaroni and cheese

* Use in baked beans

* Combine mustard and olive oil with red potatoes then roast until crusty

* Coat pork chops or chicken in mustard then crust with panko and bake

* Add to potato and egg salads

* Spread it on bread instead of butter

* Simmer mustard with pan drippings, wine, broth and cream to make a sauce for roast chicken

* Add to barbecue sauce

Want to learn more about Dijon cuisine? August 23, 2011 Michelin star chef chefs Jean-Pierre and Alexis Billoux from Dijon will be doing cooking demos at the CUESA kitchen at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market from 10 am - 2 pm as part of the Dijon Must’art tour.