Baked Apples with Pine Nuts, Juniper Berries, and Orange

It is surprising to me that apples in this day and age still have cores.  I mean, watermelons and grapes are now seedless.  Apples are wondering when their day is coming.  Okay, I'm wondering that.  I'd also advocate for pit-free cherries.

I thought it would be all meditative and soothing to be coring apples (and I only did 4!).  Looking back, I have no idea why I thought that would be the case.  At all.  For one thing, I am completely incapable of having those kinds of attributes.  Instead, I lean towards "anxious" and "stressed."  I feel like that is something I need to work on, but that just makes me more anxious.  So it is what it is.  And yes, I've tried the whole yoga thing.
Secondly, maybe the 90 degree weather also played a part in making things not so fun.  Okay, probably a large part of it. In addition to being the anxious type, I am also stubborn and delusional - stubborn in that, since September 1, I have declared it to be Autumn here... and delusional since "here" is Southern California.  It has been like 90 here the past few days.  And it is October.  I'm confused by this.  But because it is Autumn, I must do Autumn things.  Even if the weather doesn't cooperate.  And perhaps I should consider one of those apple corer gadgets.  But despite the annoyance of taking out the cores and the overbearing heat, I loved every bite of these.  Completely and utterly worth the hassle.  

Ingredients 
4 granny smith apples, cored
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
pinch salt
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/4 teaspoon all spice
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 1/2 teaspoons orange juice
1/2 cup brandy
1/2 cup water
vanilla whipped cream, for serving

Instructions
Heat oven to 350.  In a medium bowl, mix together the brown sugar, juniper berries, melted butter, salt, pine nuts, all spice, orange juice, and orange zest.  Fill the apples with brown sugar mixture.  In a small bowl, mix brandy and water, and any remaining brown sugar mixture.  Place the stuffed apples in ovenproof dish, then pour the brandy mixture on the bottom.  Bake for about 45 minutes or until the apples are tender but hold their shape.  Serve with vanilla whipped cream.

The Food of Israel

The Israel we know is a land of contradictions and conflicts and common ground can be hard to find. But having just been there, I can say the notable exception to this, is the food. The food is really, really good, and something everyone enjoys with gusto whether it's fine dining or street food. Like the country itself, the food is very diverse. And while the history and scenery might be enough for some tourists, I came for the food. Not just because it's good, but because it provides a window into the culture and the people living there.

While there is diversity in people, politics, heritage, beliefs, religion and more in Israel--enthusiasm and appreciation of food surely is universal. Frankly, it's hard to think of a place with more diverse cuisine; their most famous dishes come from all over the world and use the great local ingredients that are readily available thanks to the climate and often innovative agricultural techniques not to mention Israeli tenacity. 

I thought I knew what food in Israel would be--hummus, falafel, olives and the like. I did find all of those things, but I also discovered so much more. Israel is a country of immigrants and refugees from all over the world and they bring their culinary traditions which become woven into the fabric of a modern country that is thousands of years old, but was declared the State of Israel some 64 years ago.

Here are some common and delectable dishes I tried in Tel Aviv that were (mostly) new to me.

Sabich

Oh my, this is the egg sandwich to end all egg sandwiches. Egg salad, the kind with chopped up hard boiled eggs and mayonnaise is my kryptonite. I cannot stand it. But this unusual combination of thinly sliced fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs, tahini, fresh tomatoes and lettuce, herbs, slivered onions, pickled cabbage and  various hot sauces including amba, a kind of tangy hot, vibrant pickled mango sauce, is something else altogether. Some versions also include thin slices of cooked potato. I know it sounds weird but trust me when I tell you this is one of the most delicious street foods I have ever eaten. It's a riot of flavor and texture and somehow both filling and yet light. Mostly it's layers of soft and silky vegetables but there is juiciness and a little crunch from fresh vegetables too. It was brought to Israel by Iraqi Jews who enjoy it on the Sabbath, because everything can be prepared ahead of time. It's typically eaten either for breakfast or lunch. 

Where to eat it: I read that the version at 2 Tchernichovsky Street was the best and I believe it. It is made with care and costs only around $5, a pittance for a sandwich that is life changing! 

Mafrum

This is another dish I never even heard of before coming to Israel. But I'd go back to Israel just to eat the delicious versions I tried in the Carmel Market. Another dish prepared for the Sabbath, this one comes from Libya. I've also been told it's a Berber dish. Highly spiced meatballs are packed into artichoke hearts or sandwiched between slices of potatoes or eggplant then dredged in flour then egg and fried and finally cooked in a tomato sauce and served. 

Where to eat it: I had it at Dr. Mafrum, Rambam 4 in the Carmel Market

Shakshouka

I first had shakshouka in Morocco, but Israelis have really taken to the dish and it is served just about everywhere, especially for breakfast. It's a cinch to make at home. Just sauté some onions, peppers and add plenty of tomatoes. Cook it into a thick sauce and season it with paprika then poach some eggs in it. Lightly poach the eggs or cook them all the way through, however you prefer. And voila! You have a satisfying dish that demands nothing more than bread to sop up the sauce. 

Where to eat it: Anywhere! I had the best version in someone's home. Thanks to a new service called EatWith, you should soon be able to eat in someone's home too when you are traveling to places like Israel, Italy and Spain.  But I also had it served in a little cast iron pan at Cafe 12, Rothschild 12,  in Neve Tzedek, a very hip neighborhood filled with boutiques and galleries where the beautiful people go. In fact, my dining companion spotted a former Miss Israel, model and actress Gal Gadot who starred in Fast & Furious.

More posts on Israeli cuisine to come! 

This trip was sponsored by Taste of Israel and I was their guest. I was not paid to write this or any other post.

Food Blogging Resources

Because blogging has been so good to me, I've become a blogging evangelist, often encouraging others to blog too. At first blogging was fairly straight forward, but over the years, it's gotten more complicated. I used to say you could set up a blog in 5 minutes on Blogger. That may still be true, but there's a lot of work involved after that. There is food photography, food writing, and a plethora of social media to participate in. Even though I've been at it for 9 years, I am no expert when it comes to blogging. I have questions and there haven't really been books to turn to, until now.

Food Blogging for Dummies addresses the questions of the food blogger. The format of the book makes it easy to understand things like the pros and cons of self hosting your blog and provides a very basic cheat sheet with some html code. It also covers food photography. While it's not comprehensive, it really does touch on an awful lot. The author is big on name dropping referring to top bloggers by first name--Heidi, David, Elise--but she clearly knows her way around the food blogging world. Though I think it's probably best for the newbie, the seasoned blogger will surely pick up some tips in this book too. 

There are a lot of food photography books, but as a food blogger, chances are, you are also the food stylist. Two new books actually take on this combination. The first is Food Styling and Photography for Dummies. Let me just say at the outset that this book is not specifically targeted at food bloggers, although bloggers will find much of it useful. If you are hoping to make the leap from amateur to professional this is a good book for you since it covers everything from dealing with personnel and sets to professional lighting equipment and pricing models. 

The other book on the subject is Plate to Pixel, digital food photography and styling by noted food blogger and photographer, Helene Dujardin. Ok I'm just going to say it. The overuse of the distressed wooden surfaces in this book drives me a bit bonkers. But there is much to learn about lighting, perspective, equipment and resources. The tone of the book is encouraging and positive. All in all, it's a great book.

Do you need a book on social media? These days everyone is talking about Pinterest, the fastest growing social network of all time.  If you are one of those people who feels like they can't be bothered, think again because it can be an important source of traffic to your blog.

I know some people think it's just a time suck, and a way to ogle at photos, but it's really so much more than that. Pinterest can be a powerful tool for organizing information, finding content and more. Pinterest for Dummies author Kelby Carr jumped on the bandwagon early and is a good guide to getting the most out of Pinterest whether you are new to it or not. I particularly liked the chapter on finding ways to use Pinterest.

Even as someone who has embraced Pinterest I picked up a lot of tips and techniques. The more you learn about Pinterest the more you will get out of it. I also believe the sooner you get involved with it the better. The book is a slim volume but worthwhile. 

Last but not least there are two books that are not new, but that I refer to frequently. The Recipe Writer's Handbook is just the best resource for anyone who writes recipes. How many cups are in a pound of cranberries, how do you adapt US recipes to metric, what's the actual definition of sauté? It's all there and more. The other book is Dianne Jacob's Will Write for Food, the current version has quite a lot on blogging and is good for all food writers or wanna be food writers. It is not a book that covers photography or how to find advertisers. It is a book on food writing and on that topic alone it's very comprehensive. Whether you want to become a better writer, find an agent, get a book deal or write for magazines, her advice is solid.

Disclaimer: There are affiliate links in this post and I may receive commissions for purchases. I also received some, though not all of the books discussed in this post as review copies. 

Melt In Your Mouth, Grilled Teriyaki Wagyu Beef Sliders

This story will break your heart.  Shatter it.  Into millions of pieces.  I'm warning you.  I should probably just start penning a book called "Jenn's Super Sad Story."  Seth has been working nights and weekends (in addition to regular daytime hours). For months.  Then one glorious sunny Saturday, he decided to take a break and not go in for the day, just spend the day at home.  Even though I was feeling sluggish from not sleeping well and had a weird feeling in my throat, I was going to make the most of the day.  So we decided to do something low-key but fun - like grill!  We figured out what to grill, went out for lunch and afterwards obtained the necessary ingredients for our dinner.  And once all that happened, I realized I was sick.  Sore throat, headache, all that fun stuff.  So I helped make these sliders, but totally couldn't enjoy them the way they were meant to be enjoyed. Instead I savored some ice cream.  Since that never fails an ailing throat.  So that is the super sad story about how I was sick on the one day Seth was home and couldn't enjoy these sliders and "had" to eat ice cream instead.  I warned you that it would tug on your heartstrings in a profound way.  That said, Seth gave me some of this meat, fresh off the grill, and I can say it was absolutely melt-in-your-mouth amazing.  He insists they are the best sliders he's ever had, and still fresh in his mind a week later.  He even liked the pineapple on them!  And he hates pineapple!

Ingredients
2/3 cup mirin
1 cup soy sauce
4 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
¼ cup brown sugar
7 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno pepper
1 inch strip of orange peel

3/4 pound thinly sliced waygu beef
butter lettuce
Japanese cucumber, sliced
radish sprouts
Maui sweet onion, halved then sliced thinly
fresh pineapple slices, cored
scallions, chopped
jalapeno slices
Sriracha
mini kaiser rolls

Instructions
To make the teriyaki sauce:  Place the mirin in a medium pot and boil over high heat.  Reduce to medium low and add the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, brown sugar, garlic, ginger, jalapeno, and orange peel.  Simmer for 20 minutes.  Refrigerate to cool.

Once the teriyaki sauce has cooled, marinate the beef.  Place the beef in a resealable bag and cover with the sauce.  Let it marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator.

Preheat grill to high (roughly 400°).  Lay down grill-proof griddle and allow 3-4 minutes to preheat.  Working in batches, as necessary, place marinated beef on griddle and flatten out.  After 30 seconds to a minute, flip the meat and let cook for another 30 seconds to a minute before removing.  Both sides should be browned and only slightly charred.

Brush onion slices, pineapple slices, and cut sides of rolls with canola oil.  Place canola oil in a small bowl.  Using a paper towel or cloth, dip in canola oil and rub over hot grill grates to prevent sticking.  Grill the onions and pineapple on high heat until they have a light char on either side.  Place the rolls, cut side down, on the grates, and remove when lightly toasted.

To assemble the sliders:  Place a lettuce leaf on bottom slice of the bun.  Then layer cucumber slices, grilled pineapple, meat, grilled onions, jalapeno slices, scallions, radish sprouts, and top with a drizzle of Sriracha.

Beef Trends

As I mentioned in my last post, I'm just back from West Virginia where I attended the Certified Angus Beef conference. It was a great opportunity to meet with chefs, talk to butchers and learn more about beef--the trends, the choices and what's on the horizon. When it comes to beef, just like chocolate or wine or coffee, the more I learn, the more I realize there is to learn. 

First a few common misconceptions, when it comes to beef:

Only some beef is grass fed. Actually all beef is grass fed. It's just a question of how it's "finished" Certified Angus Beef is finished on a feed lot and eats grain to bulk up in size and improve marbling of the meat. If you want to buy grass fed, pay attention to how it's finished. Some beef being sold as grass fed is not the same as "grass finished." 

Grass fed beef is healthier. I used to think so, but it turns out the evidence is mixed. While grass fed beef does have higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids, it's not a great source of them. And as an article in the New York Times concluded, " it’s not clear whether the nutritional differences in the two types of meat (grass fed versus conventional) have any meaningful impact on human health." Meanwhile other research challenges the benefits of grass fed over grain finished. I think the jury is out on this one.

Fresh beef is better than frozen. Not really. Freezing actually improves the tenderness of beef, since ice crystals penetrate muscle and research shows there is no real moisture loss difference between fresh and frozen meat. Beef, like chicken and pork are expected to go up in price in the coming year and since meat prices vary throughout the year, take advantage of the cost savings and consider buying frozen beef. You won't be sacrificing quality. 

And the trends….

Bone in steaks! I saw this when I dined at Sidecut at the Four Seasons Whistler where a 52 ounce porterhouse, a 36 ounce rib eye and a 36 ounce strip steak are all served bone in and carved table side. This is a fun way to dine! I haven't done a side by side taste test of steak cooked on the bone versus off the bone, but generally speaking, meat on the bone tastes better. 

Signature grinds are a trend that is due to the popularity of gourmet burgers. It's not just the coarseness of the grind, but the very mix or meats such as short rib, prime rib, brisket or strip steak. What makes some burgers taste better than others? One secret is oleic acid. Oleic acid is the primary mono- unsaturated fatty acid in beef and accounts for about 33% of the fatty acid in beef (it's also found in olive oil) research shows that monounsaturated oleic acid does not raise cholesterol. It's this fat that is partly responsible for making meat taste so good and is found in higher percentages in very marbled beef. There is some very interesting research on this topic. Other ways burgers become "gourmet" include seasonings, fillings and toppings. My favorite to date has to be the marrow burger which is off the menu at Luella. But burgers with bacon, cheese and caramelized onions (and ground bacon in the grind), like the one at Marlowe are pretty spectacular too. 

Smaller portions. Hallelujah!  When I go to a steak house I typically order the smallest steak, or hope someone will share a large one with me (bone in perhaps?). Frankly I get tired of eating beef after about three to four bites. And I really get tired of having filet mignon be my only option for something more petite. As demand grows for smaller steaks, different cuts are showing up such as the culotte or top sirloin cap, filet of rib, cap of rib, sirloin end, chuck eye and they are very flavorful unlike the less flavorful yet tender filet mignon. For me good quality beef is a treat and a little goes a long way.

New cuts. The way beef is butchered or fabricated, is constantly evolving. Some cuts you may not have seen yet include the braison and merlot, also known as "heel" of the beef round. Both will be less expensive cuts, the braison is best for braising and the merlot can be grilled or cooked whole. 

It strikes me that there is something for everyone whether you want a big hunk of meat on the bone a gourmet burger or just a smaller portion. Which trends are you most excited about?

Disclosure: I learned about the trends at the Certified Angus Beef conference where I was a guest and my travel expenses were covered. I was not paid to write this or any other post. Special thanks to Kyle Miller and Michael Ollier for their terrific educational session and meat cutting demonstration.
 

Vanilla Latte with Vanilla Syrup and Vanilla Infused Raw Sugar

After a two month hiatus from my world travels, I was inspired to pick up my pans and camera this afternoon. Earlier today I found myself was standing in line at a coffee shop that shall not be named but that rhymes with Far Shucks. I was ready to suck it up and order at Tall Vanilla Latte to sate by caffeine and vanilla craving, when I got to thinking about how badly I was being ripped off. Now I don't mind paying a little extra for really good stuff I can't make myself, but coffee? vanilla syrup? steamed milk? Hello? I rather put my hard earned money in my gas tank - I know for sure I can't make petrol.

In my kitchen, one latte costs about .25 cents. At trendy, overpriced baristas, a Tall Vanilla Latte costs close to $3.00 bucks. Needless to say I left, and here I am - showing you the way to a super delicious, steaming cup of rich, dark coffee, swirled with a pillowy mound of frothy hot foam and sweetened with homemade vanilla syrup. And as if this weren't sexy enough, it's topped off with a sprinkling of vanilla-infused raw sugar.You don't need any fancy equipment or supplies, so have fun and experiment with different simple syrups and garnishes, using this recipe as your template!

Other than milk, all you need is right here: rich, oily coffee beans, vanilla syrup and raw sugar

 I like to use a mug that takes two hands to hold - but you can use whatever makes you happy

Vanilla Latte
1/2 cup super strong rich coffee or espresso
1 cup skim or 1% steamed milk
2-3 teaspoons vanilla syrup (see below)
1 tsp. vanilla infused raw sugar for garnish (see below)

Vanilla Syrup (Recipe can be doubled)
1 cup water
3/4 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Combine water and sugar in a heavy sauce pan bring to a boil for 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and add vanilla.
Let cool then store in a clean glass jar in the refrigerator.

Vanilla Infused Raw Sugar
2 cups raw sugar
1 vanilla bean

Pour sugar into a resealable jar, place vanilla bean in center of sugar and seal.
The longer the vanilla bean stays in the sugar, the more heavenly the scent and taste.
*I never take it out - just add more sugar as needed

Make the Latte
1. Brew your coffee as you normally do, but don't be afraid to add an extra scoop. If you grind your own beans, even better!
2. Pour syrup into bottom of good sized coffee mug.
3. In a glass measuring cup, pour in milk.
4.Using a frother (available at most stores like Target, BB&B), froth cold milk until good and foamy. If you don't have a frother, use your blender as though you were making a frappe.
5. Microwave milk for about 20 seconds (watch carefully so it doesn't overflow) until the you see the foam expanding (depending on your microwave this may take longer).
6. Add milk to syrup and cup.
7. Pouring down the inside of the cup so as not to disturb the milk, pour desired amount of coffee.
8. Top with a sprinkling of vanilla-infused raw sugar.




&#169 2010-2012, What's Cooking in Your World? Sarah Commerford/All Rights Reserved

Chefs on Beef

When it comes to beef, the kind of you choose is truly a matter of taste and personal preference. There are different cuts, different preparations and of course different breeds. Me? I care about humane treatment of animals and healthy eating, but first and foremost I want something that tastes really good. And so do chefs. One the last day of the Certified Angus Beef conference in West Virginia I got to hang out with chefs at the bucolic Ironside Ranch. It was a great opportunity to eat, talk and learn what cuts and types of beef they serve and sell.

I spoke with three outstanding and award-winning chefs--Govind Armstrong who has been involved in a variety of different restaurants including a chain of burger joints, Keoni Chang, a corporate chef with a supermarket from Hawaii, who has a CIA culinary degree and a restaurant background and Matt Hill, a steak house chef who has also worked in fine dining and also has a CIA culinary degree. I learned while they each have their personal preferences, ultimately they all believe in offering variety to their customers.

Govind Armstrong, Post & Beam (and 8 oz Burger Bar), Los Angeles CA

I was excited to meet chef Govind Armstrong, especially after enjoying a fantastic meal he served the night before. His beef preparations included a sous vide then seared dry aged filet of strip and crisp smoked beef bacon. Govind told me he has been using Certified Angus Beef for many years, he first learned about it when he worked with chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. He was impressed with the quality and has used it ever since. He appreciates the consistency and though he uses different cuts at the different restaurants he is affiliated with, he's a fan of the culotte. The tenderness and consistency mean "it's one less thing I have to worry about." 

He enjoys good quality meat and told me he has spent time in Argentina where all beef is  strictly grass fed and finished. The beef is a different texture, but one he appreciates saying it's grassier but that it's not what he wants everyday. He uses the middle meats such as the strip loin and barrel cut (a marbled part of the rib eye). He's a fan of cooking beef sous vide and adds seasonings and clarified butter to add flavor and richness. He noted different in some places like Mississippi and Louisiana, everyone tends to want their beef well done and that affects his choice of beef as well. 

Keoni Chang, Foodland Supermarkets, Honolulu HI

Keoni, a chef with a fine dining background told me he was brought on board at Foodland to improve the quality of the perishable food in the supermarket from the bakery through to the deli. The store was offering mostly Select grade beef and he felt it was important to expand the options. He likes the Choice grade and tried another company's product before settling on Certified Angus Beef. His stores also carry local and grass fed beef. The population in Hawaii is used to often using thinner cuts for Asian preparations but he says they are starting to want more thick steaks they can grill too. 

Which is best? He says it comes down to a lifestyle choice for most people and he wants to satisfy as many customers as he can. He focuses on the sub primals such as the top sirloin, rib eye, strip loin and one of his favorite, the boneless short ribs off the chuck which he says has great marbling. When it comes to the Choice grade, he points out there is a lot of variation from beef that is just a cut above Select to beef that is almost Prime. With Certified Angus Beef, he says "we are getting close to the Prime experience."

Matt Hill, Charlie Palmer Steak, Washington DC

Matt told me he chooses Certified Angus Beef for the consistency it provides. He appreciates the higher level of marbling and tender product. In taste tests he preferred Certified Angus Beef dry aged strip loins to American wagyu beef, referencing the mouthfeel in particular. 

He also buys locally raised grass fed quarters and whole animals and enjoys breaking down the product in his restaurant. For grass fed he prepares carpaccio and charcuterie, while for Certified Angus Beef he is particularly fond of the culotte. He also admitted that farm to table is easier to do with pork than with beef. 

Note: Matt was one of StarChef's Rising Stars in 2010 and has just left Charlie Palmer Steak to work at a new concept. Stay tuned! 

Disclosure: I was a guest at the Certified Angus Beef conference and my travel expenses were covered, however I was not paid to write this or any other post.