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Friday, June 21, 2013

Krug Collection 1989 Champagne--Wine on Friday


"You've never had good Champagne." That was response I gave to someone who told me they didn't like Champagne. Because there's a big difference between low end sparkling wine and decent sparkling wine and Champagne. Sure enough, once he had a glass of lovely Nicholas Feuillatte bubbly he changed his mind. Typically I can find good Champagne and sparkling wines in the $30 - 50 range, retail. But this is not about good sparkling wines or Champagne, this is about outstanding Champagne, namely Krug

At a recent tasting and lunch hosted by Krug, I got a chance to try various offerings including their non-vintage Grand Cuvee and their lovely Rosé, but there was one Champagne that really stood apart from the rest and that was the Krug Collection 1989. It has haunted me ever since. If you read reviews of this Champagne here are some of the flavors that are used to describe it:

cardamom, tea rose, freshly ground coffee, honeycomb, kumquat, oyster shell, dried apricot, chalk, truffle, brioche, spice, tropical fruit, honey, white fruits, slightly browned apples, high-toned flowers, yeast, nuttiness, pear, green apple, citrus fruit marmalade, fresh figs, mineral 

I would say yes, it's all in there and somehow even more. It's extremely rich and yet still bright and vibrant and has a finish that lasts and lasts and then lingers for weeks in your mind. Like a great film, it's easy to get lost in this Champagne, each flavor like each scene, leading to the next and taking you somewhere else. 

I tend to favor smaller grower producers over the big houses because the big Champagne houses strive for consistency which can eventually be a bit boring. Krug may be an important Champagne house, but it's still fairly small and it seeks to create excellent Champagne every time, not just consistently good Champagne. Much care and consideration goes into tasting from every single plot. 

Personally speaking, I want a Champagne to thrill me, with the unexpected as well as the familiar. I want technicolor and 3D and surround sound, and believe me, Krug Collection 1989 delivers. At $549 a bottle, the experience was bittersweet, because I have no idea when I shall be able to experience this epic adventure in a glass again…

Disclaimer: I was a guest at a tasting and lunch hosted by Krug, I was not paid to write this or any other post. 


Thursday, June 20, 2013

Stuffed Red Peppers with Red Rice and Buffalo, topped with Strawberries and Red Jalapeno - The Red Dish

The internet is stuffed with articles telling you what your favorite color means.

When we got our next Creative Cooking Crew Challenge, to create a monochromatic dish, it probably means something that my first response was to do something all black.  Though if I really think about it, I don't have a particular fondness for black beans, black rice or squid ink. So maybe the world is correct.  Maybe it does mean something.

According to one article, a preference for black says "I want to give the appearance of mystery," but also that my preference could possibly "indicate a suppression of desires and worldly aims."

I'm not sure I would say I was trying to cultivate an appearance of mystery, per se.  But I am known in these parts to be "moody," a word often associated with black.  However, I can, without a doubt, attest to not suppressing my desires or worldly aims.  I have good relationships with all the ice creams and milkshakes and cookies.

Seth's response was to make a red dish. The same article helpfully explains that "red is often the color chosen by someone outgoing, aggressive, vigorous and impulsive—or someone who would like to be!"  Which is one of the most absurd descriptions of Seth that one could possibly write.

Apparently red won. There isn't really a compromise position to be had in a monochromatic color scheme.  Unless - you look at our final result! Where, we somehow managed (despite using annato, paprika, and tomatoes in our buffalo mixture) to make a completely red dish if, and only if, you use a very loose definition of "brick red."



So apparently the dish compromised with itself.  While the descriptions of black and red don't match up with us (or at least we don't want to believe they do) (ugh, what if the descriptions are right and what we know to be true isn't actually true - we don't actually know ourselves!), perhaps the dish itself wanted to be all these things.  Being a stuffed pepper, there is indeed an appearance of mystery.  You never quite know what you will bite into.  And if I were to ascribe human characteristics to a plate a food, I would perhaps use "outgoing and "aggressive" to talk about the fruity, spicy. smoky, meaty flavors it holds.  So it might be safe to say this dish represents the qualities of both our favorite colors, even if not so much our personalities.

Ingredients
For the rice:
1 1/2 rice cups red rice
chicken stock for cooking liquid
pinch ground shrimp
pinch annato
pinch paprika
pinch saffron

For the red pepper tomato sauce:
2 red peppers, quartered and deseeded
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
paprika
ground pasilla
6 ounces tomato paste
splash truffle oil
pinch paprika
pinch passila
crushed red pepper
1 red jalapeno, minced
lemon wedge

For the buffalo mixture:
1 pound buffalo
extra virgin olive oil
1/2 red onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon roasted cinnamon
1 teapsoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon annato
1/2 teaspoon ground pasilla
1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon paprika
3/4 cup crushed tomatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke
2 celery stalks, minced
kosher salt, to taste

For assembly and serving:
3-4 red bell peppers, halved and cleaned
3-4 sliced red jalapenos
1-2 cups minced strawberries
lime wedges

Instructions
To make the red rice:  We use a rice cooker to make our rice.  Measure out 1 1/2 cups with the rice measuring cup.  Add chicken stock for the cooking liquid.  Add a pinch each of ground dried shrimp, annato, paprika, and saffron.  Cook according to manufacturer's directions.

To roast the red peppers: Heat oven to 425. Place red peppers on baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle salt, freshly ground black pepper, paprika, and ground pasilla over pieces. Once one side of the veggie has a nice brown color, flip; then continue roasting for a total of about 35 minutes.

To make the roasted red pepper/tomato sauce:  Place the roasted red peppers, tomato paste, splash truffle oil, paprika, pasilla, and crushed red pepper in a mixing bowl.  Blend with immersion blender.  Stir in minced jalapeno and a squeeze of lemon juice.  Mix the rice into the sauce.  Adjust salt to taste.

To make the buffalo mixture:  In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil.  Brown the meat over high heat.  Lower the heat and add the red onion.  Once soft, add the garlic cloves.Stir in the cinnamon, smoked paprika, annato, pasilla, ancho chile powder, and paprika.  Once the meat has been coated, add the crushed tomatoes, raspberry vinegar, and liquid smoke.  Let the mixture come together for just a few minutes.  Stir in the celery stalks.  Adjust salt to taste.

To assemble:  We placed a layer of the rice mixture in each red pepper half, followed by a layer of the buffalo mixture.  Each half was topped with a few slices of red jalapeno.  Bake at 425 for 30-40 minutes, until softened and brown on the bottom.  Serve with a spoonful of minced strawberries and a lime wedge.

Monday, June 17, 2013

All about Strawberries


Nothing tastes better than a freshly picked strawberry, sweet and bursting with juice, still warm from the sun. Strawberries are easy to love--they are gorgeous to look at, delicious to eat and very healthy. But growing strawberries is no piece of cake. Their roots can be susceptible to rot and fungus, pests attack them and unpredictable weather patterns can make growing them a risky proposition. The California Strawberry Commission invited me to visit some farms and meet with growers. Here is some of what I learned about strawberries on my trip to the Central Coast.

California is the leader in growing strawberries, over 80% of all fresh and frozen strawberries in the US come from California and the majority come from the Central Coast. Why the Central Coast? The weather conditions with fairly warm sunny days and cool foggy nights are very good for growing strawberries, and the breezes coming off the ocean help keep the pests away. Strawberries are harvested for 9 months of the year on the Central Coast, that's more than just about anywhere else in the world! The peak season is April through June. 

Conventional crops are sprayed up to twice a month to manage pests, but significant research is being done by the California Strawberry Commission and the California Department of Pesticide Regulation to reduce fumigants. Growers use bug vacuums and integrated pest management to remove pests safely from plants without chemicals on both organic and conventional crops. 
Plastic strips are embedded in the ground to allow for irrigation and any chemical applications which is easier on the fruit, the environment and the farm workers. Conditions are improving for workers, especially since harmful pesticides like methyl bromide and methyl iodide are no longer being used. The workers who pick strawberries are paid by the hour and by the amount they pick. At one farm, I was told workers make up to $17 per hour. 
After strawberries are picked they are transferred within an hour to a chilling facility where they are labeled indicating where, when and who picked them.  Strawberries are chilled down to 34 degrees, every hour they remain at ambient temperatures translates to a day less of shelf life. 

Nutritionist Mitzi Dulan recommends eating strawberries because they are low in calories, high in Vitamin C and also contain many other antioxidants and phytonutrients such as manganese, folate, iodine and magnesium. A one cup serving has only 45 calories but 3 grams of fiber (perhaps because each berry has 275 seeds?) and 220 grams of potassium.

To best preserve freshness, don't wash strawberries until you are ready to eat them. One other tip? Despite what you may have heard, a redder strawberry is NOT necessarily a sweeter strawberry. Strawberries come in a myriad range of pink, orange red and even white. 

Strawberries are a perfect topping for shortcake or cereal, in spinach salads or whipped up in smoothies. I also like them served with a bowl of Greek yogurt sprinkled with brown sugar. 

Here are some more unusual ways to use strawberries:

* Make salsa with strawberries, onions, cilantro and chiles

* Cut strawberries in half and top with a dollop of ricotta or goat cheese

* Puree strawberries and add them to marinara sauce and serve over spaghetti

* Use strawberries in a savory risotto 

* Toss strawberries with balsamic vinegar, sugar and a pinch or black pepper, gently roast or serve them raw

* Make a shrub by combining strawberries, vinegar and sugar

* Wrap strawberries in prosciutto or serrano ham, secure with a toothpick and serve them as is, or grill and serve

* Layer mozzarella and strawberry slices with basil leaves to make a strawberry Caprese salad

* Top toasted baguette slices with chopped strawberries and chives mixed with olive oil and lemon juice

* Use strawberries with cheese and greens as a topping for flatbread

More...

Additional strawberry recipes and a free strawberry recipe phone app (for iPhone & Android)

Meet the other food bloggers on this trip:

Jodi of Garlic Girl, Mitzi of Nutrition Expert, Jill of The Veggie Queen, Kristianne of My San Francisco Kitchen, Jennifer of Playful Pantry, Laura of Superglue Mom, Jess of Sodium Girl, Ivette of Muy Bueno Cooking, Kankana of Playful Cooking, Jennifer of Savory Simple, Nicole of Pinch My Salt, Claudya of Unknown Mami

Disclaimer: I was a guest of the California Strawberry Commission, I was not paid to write this or any other posts. 

Fried Egg with Kale Pesto


Now that I spend more time reading books with pictures than without, it can perhaps be said that I relate waaaay too many things to toddler stories.  For example, in A Sick Day for Amos McGee, we meet a kindly old man named Amos.

The book states that "Amos McGee was an early riser. Every morning when the alarm clock clanged, he swung his legs out of bed and swapped his pajamas for a fresh-pressed uniform. He would wind his watch and set a pot of water to boil - saying to the sugar bowl, "a spoonful for my oatmeal, please, and two for my teacup."

While Amos McGee (or just McGee, as Max likes to say, as though he is on familiar terms with him) sounds like a very lovely gentleman, he does seem like a man stuck in his ways. I'm not sure how one eats oatmeal every day. Or at all, quite frankly. And how does he swing his legs out of bed as soon as that alarm goes off?  How does that happen?

Anyway, I am not Amos McGee. I do not eat oatmeal every day. I do not eat oatmeal.  I am a woman who needs variety. So when the food gods beatifically smile on us and give us both pesto and eggs in the fridge, I take it as a sign that pesto eggs need to be made. It is such a ridiculously simple dish, but the richness of the eggs are just such a perfect fit for pesto.  I won't eat this every day.  But knowing I can make it for breakfast makes swinging my legs out of bed just a little easier.

Ingredients
1 egg
crushed red pepper
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1-2 tablespoons kale pesto (or whatever you have on hand!)
Parmesan cheese, for serving

For the pesto:
3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup toasted walnuts
4 cups chopped kale
1/2 cup olive oil
zest and juice from 1 lemon
smoked sea salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper

Instructions
To make the pesto: Place garlic, walnuts, lemon zest, and kale in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse. Slowly pour in the olive oil and lemon juice while the food processor is still running. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.

To make the egg: Melt butter in skillet on medium heat. Crack egg into pan, and use fork or spatula to break apart the whites immediately around the yolk as it cooks. Continue to fry just until egg white is cooked, or sunny-side up style, roughly 1 minute. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper. Sprinkle the egg with Parmesan cheese and a scoop of the pesto.  Serve with toast.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Dark Cocoa and Roasted Kumquat Egg-Free Ice Cream


It is hard to not be taken in by the kumquat.  So small and vibrantly hued, they are just begging to thrown in your bag and carried home and loved.

Last time I fell for their charms, I wasn't enamored.  It wasn't a bad experience, but there are so many other foods I love with so much more fervor.

So you would think I would just leave things well enough alone and bypass them next time I encountered them.

You would think that.  But that is absolutely not what happened.  Next time I saw them, I found myself stuffing them by the fistful into my bag.  I knew logically that this wasn't the best idea in life.  But emotionally I was attached.

Since I'm impetuous and the opposite of rational, these adorable little fruits were indeed coming home with me.  Again.

After sitting in the fridge for a few days (weeks?), I knew the time had come to finally do something - anything - with the little guys.  I've always liked the taste, but not the way they feel in your mouth.  So I tried to do something about that issue - and I pureed them after roasting them, turning them into a cocoa ice cream.  And now I'm absolutely falling in love.

Ingredients
1 cup halved kumquats
1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup dark cocoa powder
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon almond extract

Instructions
For the kumquats:  Heat oven to 400.  Toss the kumquats with the oil.  Spread on baking sheet and roast for about 20 minutes, until they have softened and are brown on the bottom.  Let cool.

For the ice cream: Put the kumquats in a large bowl.  Add the cream and milk.  Use an immersion blender to blend the kumquats into the liquid.  Stir in cocoa powder, sugar, and the extracts.  Pour into the ice cream maker and churn according to manufacturer's directions.  Serve immediately.  If freezing, you may find it it best to let the ice cream set out for a bit before serving.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Un Diet Cookbooks

When is a diet book, not a diet book? Diets are often considered temporary, just until you lose weight, or get a medical condition under control. But if you are celiac, then gluten free is more than just a diet, but a a way of life. Some dietary changes are necessary, others might be considered optional. Several books have caught my attention recently, because on first glance you might think they are diet books, but they could really be seen as "lifestyle" books, because they represent changes for the long term, not the short term. 
Recently I was at a breakfast with Mark Bittman and he discussed his latest book, VB6. After being told his health was at risk, Bittman decided to adhere to a new way of eating, "vegan before 6 pm." Everyone wants to talk to him about cheating, and the first thing he did at the vegan breakfast was request dairy milk for his coffee. Let's just say he's flexible and that's probably key to his success. He's lost weight, lowered his cholesterol and blood sugar.

VB6 is not a cookbook, although it does include about 60 recipes, not all of them vegan, it's more about how to change the way you eat. Bittman also reduced processed non-whole grain foods like white bread, pasta and rice. Whether you go vegan before 6 pm or just start increasing the number of vegan meals you eat in general, the benefits seem pretty clear. And if you're worried about what options you'll have for breakfast, Bittman covers that too (think smoothies, cereal, tofu scrambles, nut butters on whole grain toast and fruit parfaits).

There are lots of gluten free cookbooks, but one of the latest ones comes from Kristine Kidd, who was the editor at Bon Appetit for more than 20 years. Unlike some other more complicated gluten free cookbooks, Williams-Sonoma Weeknight Gluten-Free is all about quick and fairly easy recipes. With the exception of xanthum gum, it doesn't rely on lots of unusual ingredients. It also has a resource section that offers sources of gluten free basics like flour, pasta, grains, tortillas and broth. The recipes have a California vibe to them, lots of grilled meats, pasta, salads and quick and easy dishes with grains like quinoa. It also has a can do attitude that makes it seem less daunting.

Some fab sounding recipes? Shrimp Avocado and Peach Salad with Chile and Lime, Braised Chicken with Fennel and Polenta, Sausage and Chard Risotto and Ginger Cherry Oatmeal Cookies.

There seem to be two camps when it comes to salt. Those who constantly advocate using it, and those who don't. While I use salt, I think over dependence on it can really be a crutch. Some people with kidney, heart problems or high blood pressure need to reduce sodium, that's just a fact. But even if you don't, aren't you curious about how you can lessen your dependence on salt to boost flavor?  I'm a fan of Jess Gouldman Foung's book Sodium Girl's Limitless Low-Sodium Cookbook which includes lots of cool tricks for creating robust flavor without adding any salt or salty ingredients. She even makes her own creative versions of salty foods like pickles and kimchi.

Don't Break Your Heart written by registered dietitians, is not as extreme as Sodium Girl in terms of reducing sodium (for example recipes will use low salt soy sauce or parmesan cheese). The book is focused on reducing sodium and to some degree unhealthy fat, for heart health and weight management. The recipes like Edamame Avocado Dip, Chicken with Golden Raisins, Green Olives and Lemon and Strawberry Gazpacho are much more interesting than the boring fare sometimes offered up by dietitians.

I'm not a big believer in the Paleo diet, but if it works for some people, so be it. Elana Amsterdam of Elana's Pantry has written a little volume called  Paleo Cooking from Alana's Pantry. Her recipes are gluten free, grain free and dairy free. Coconut Macadamia Tart Crust, Olive Oil Thyme Crackers made from almond flour, Cauliflower "rice" and her Flourless Brownies will probably help you look past the restrictive nature of this way of eating.

Frankly her recipes are appealing and easy and bottom line, that's probably key to making any change stick.


Disclaimer: This post includes Amazon affiliate links

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Strawberries with Minty Dip


Sometimes, our time together is fleeting.  We don't intend for it to be like that, but so it goes.

I'm not one to make friends easily.  But one day at the park, I started chatting with another mom, her son being of a similar age to Max.  We somehow managed to get the kids happily playing together in the sandbox. She helped me with some Spanish words, I helped her with some English.  We made plans to meet up the following morning at a designated time.  I thought it would be the beginning of a wonderful friendship.

Alas, Max and I were the only ones at the park the next day.

At the farmer's market, I spotted a giant bunch of mint leaves.  So fresh and vibrant and green, I couldn't possibly not take home these leaves of freshness.  I placed the bunch in the fridge for safekeeping.  Or so I thought.  Just a few short hours later, I realized the mint leaves were rapidly deteriorating.  It was apparent that they needed to be used quickly.

Sometimes, there isn't any lesson to be learned.  No lesson or narrative to retroactively give meaning to events.  I'll never know why they never showed up at the park.  But I did learn that one must use farmer's market mint quickly.  This time, as a dip for strawberries.

And next time, I'll consult this Cooking Light slideshow for more ideas to use my mint.

Ingredients
1 large bunch of mint leaves
2 tablespoons walnut oil
2 tablespoons whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons lemon juice
touch of honey
pinch salt
fresh strawberries, for serving

Instructions
Put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until blended together like a pesto.  Serve with fresh strawberries.