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Friday, July 19, 2013

Franciscan Chardonnay: Wine on Friday


Yeast is to used convert grape juice into wine, but also for flavor. At Franciscan Estate Winery they make two different Chardonnays, one specifically with wild yeast. I spoke with winemaker Janet Myers to find out more. But first, it's important to be familiar with some wine vocabulary:

Lees: The dead yeast at the bottom of the barrel, wine can absorb some of the yeasty flavor from being aged with the lees. 

Malolactic: The fermentation process when tart malic acid, naturally present in grape juice and skins is converted to softer lactic acid. In Chardonnay a by product of malolactic fermentation produces a buttery flavor and a soft mouthfeel. 

Carneros: An American Viticultural Area which includes parts of Southern Napa and Sonoma. It is relatively cool because it is closer to San Francisco Bay breezes. 

Janet, are you a fan of Chardonnay? 
I used to be tired of it; when I got here 10 years ago Chardonnay was too oaky and buttery, many were a caricature of themselves. I want oak and malolactic to complement. The barrel frames the fruit. Being here, I've made some slight changes, our Chardonnay used to be more oaky, and I've taken it to be a little softer--less toast, there's a gentler voice of the barrel. I've done that with both of the Chardonnay. We like the fruit expression here and it's where the consumer is going. 

Tell me about Franciscan Chardonnay--the Napa Valley Chardonnay and Reserve "Cuvée Sauvage" Chardonnay 
The reserve ($40) has much smaller production, versus the Napa Valley ($18) and it has has much less new oak, it is made to be fruit forward. Stylistically they are different, the reserve is in the barrel twice as long. It has a lot of Carneros fruit, it's vibrant with minerality, creamy but not buttery, there is oak to support but not to dominate. 

When did Franciscan start using wild yeast in the Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay?
The winery started in 1987, and the winemaker at the time was interested in Burgundy and how wild yeast was used. He was the first to use wild yeast in Napa. Even our Napa Valley Chardonnay is half wild yeast fermented. Using wild yeast takes more work and it takes longer; it takes longer for it to finish. There's less yeast and it's less reliable. 

Why do you make some wine with commercial yeast and some with wild yeast?
We like the results with the commercial yeast, but we get a little more complexity with the wild yeast. The difference is not night and day but if you taste blind you will notice it. The reserve has the biggest richest fruit lots, but layered on complexity. Malolactic fermentation takes more time on the lees -- 15 months versus 7 months.

When you let the native yeast do the fermentation, the yeast that's on the bloom, there might be a dozen type of yeasts. Plus some that are native to the winery. Each gives a different flavor. They each have a  niche for alcohol tolerance so it's like a relay in that one starts, then as the alcohol rises that species might rest and another kicks in. It's luck of the draw with the yeasts in the environment and on the grapes. 

Why do you source fruit from Carneros? 
It's in the cooler part of Napa which is conducive towards natural acidity and balance. It's cooler, crisp and vibrant. Our Napa Valley Chardonnay is over half Carneros fruit, in Napa and South. I don't buy it from up valley, it's not stylistically what I want. I don't want a low acid Chardonnay.

What do you think of Chardonnay from Napa today?
I think Chardonnay is in a really good place right now, the pendulum hasn't swung too far. There's good balance, and it's very well crafted. But it's ultimately a matter of taste, so find a producer that you like.

I couldn't agree more! Thanks Janet! 

Franciscan Estate Winery is open to visitors from 10 am - 5 pm daily, go and you can try both Chardonnays. No appointments necessary. Call ahead if you wish to take part in one of their "Taste Explorations" including a wine blending session or a sensory evaluation class.

Franciscan Estate Winery
Highway 29 @ Galleron Rd
St. Helena CA
707.967.3993

Disclaimer: Franciscan sent me a sample of their Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay 

Thursday, July 18, 2013

More posts...

Recent posts I've written for 7x7

A Rice Bowl with Spicy Tahini Chicken, Stir-fried Mushroom and Asparagus, and Marinated Carrots


It isn't clear how it began.  But I'm totally calling it genetic, as my sister is seriously awesome at it as well. For as long as I can remember, my sister and I have been quite skilled at eye-rolling.  That ever-so-mature response when something or someone annoys you.  

This response has many triggers, one of which is recipes touting super special "secret" ingredients.  Like the avocado in that brownie.  Or the kale in that smoothie.

And now I'm rolling my eyes at myself.  Because I am here to explain the secret ingredient of rice bowls. And noodle bowls, for that matter.

The secret is the bowl.  It doesn't matter what bowl it is. It just has to be a bowl. 

Lets all be honest.  Rice and noodle bowls are pretty trendy. But I would argue, that they are trendy for good reason. If the content of these bowls were served on plates, and called "here is a plate of noodles with stuff" or "here is a plate of rice with stuff," I'm pretty sure none of us would get excited about it. We would all be like, "Oh, isn't this basically like going to a buffet and placing heaping piles of random stuff all on one plate."

And we would all be basically correct.

I am still working on gathering evidence for my theory, but I'm pretty sure that bowls have invisible tiny fans scattering delicious invisible taste enhancing seasonings over the contents of the bowl. It will take me some time to figure out how to test this. Science is not my strong suit.

But somehow piling seemingly random concoctions in a bowl makes total sense.  Here, zingy carrots, with stir-fried asparagus and mushrooms, and the earthiness from the tahini chicken, sprinkled with some parsley and scallions and a drizzle of sesame oil, all work together.  I may be rolling my eyes at myself, but at least I am enjoying a yummy dinner while doing so.

Ingredients
For the carrots:
1 cup julienned carrots
2 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons walnut oil
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

For the stir fry:
1 bunch asparagus, woody ends removed, chopped
1 cup chopped shiitake mushrooms
1 teaspoon minced ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
minced jalapeno, to taste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1/2 teaspoon honey

For the tahini chicken:
1/2 pound chicken breast tenders
canola oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup tahini
1 tablespoon Greek yogurt
1 1/2 teaspoon Sambal Oelek chile paste
1/2 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice

cooked rice (I made 2 rice cups in the rice cooker)
chopped scallions
chopped parsley
lime wedge
sesame oil

Instructions
To make the carrots:  Place carrots in small bowl.  Whisk the oils and vinegar together, and pour over the carrots.  I like doing this ahead of time.

To make the stir-fry:  In a small bowl, stir soy sauce, oyster sauce, and honey.  Heat canola oil in wok or saute pan on high.  Add asparagus and mushrooms.  Cook for 2 minutes, and add the ginger, garlic, and jalapeno.  Turn heat to medium-low.  Once the garlic has cooked, add the soy sauce mixture.  

To make the chicken:  Sprinkle salt and pepper liberally on both sides of the chicken.  Heat canola oil in a skillet on high.  Get each side nice and brown (about 3 minutes each side).  Turn heat to low to finish cooking (if needed).  Stir together tahini, yogurt, chile paste, honey, soy sauce, and lime juice.  Chop the chicken, and toss with the tahini mixture.

To assemble the rice bowl:  Scoop some rice into a bowl.  Place a few scoops of the stir fry on top of one section of the rice.  Place some tahini chicken on another section.  Place the carrots on top.  Scatter chopped scallions and parsley on top.  Drizzle the whole thing with sesame oil.

Monday, July 15, 2013

American Lamb Jam 2013 San Francisco July 21


The last few years the American Lamb Board has hosted an event called the American Lamb Jam. If you're a fan of lamb (and I know ewe are) this is a great way to see what top chefs can do with lamb and how truly versatile it is. 

As a preview to the event, I got a chance to attend a lunch after a garden tour (with a bobcat sighting!) at Wente Vineyards

Chef Matt Greco from The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards prepared a feast starting with a range of appetizers--lamb sausages, lamb mole tamales, barbecue pulled lamb, lamb pastrami (my favorite). He even found ways to use lamb fat in a grilled panisse with braised neck, green chickpeas and gypsy peppers. 
We then sat down and had our fill of roast leg, saddle and rack of lamb. 
Some things you might not know about American lamb:
A majority of the over 82,000 sheep operations in the US are  family owned and operated.
The top 5 sheep producing states are Texas, California, Colorado, Wyoming and South Dakota.
All American Lamb is hormone free and some of it is also antibiotic free.
American lamb grazes on grasses and legumes, helping to maintain healthy and sustainable pasture land. 
On Sunday, July 21 the American Lamb Jam will take place at Golden Gate Club from 2 – 5 pm.
Competing for the titles of “Best in Show,” “People’s Choice” and “Best Leg, Breast, Shank and Shoulder,” each chef will prepare a sampling of American lamb, to be voted on by members of the media as well as attendees.
In addition to eating plenty of lamb, attendees will enjoy local wine and beer, watch lamb butchery demos, and take home lamb swag.
Participating chefs:
Dino Vazquez, Eastside West Restaurant & Bar
Larry Finn, Scala’s Bistro
Vernon Morales, Town Hall Salt House

Sophie Uong, Pican Restaurant

Adam Mali, Mandarin Oriental Brasserie S&P

Francis Hogan, Bluestem Brasserie

Matt Greco, The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards

Ben de Vries, Luella Restaurant

Mike Ransom, Jasper’s Corner Tap & Kitchen

Alicia Jenish, Grand Café

Antelmo Faria, Tacolicious

Laurance Gordon, Thirsty Bear

Charlie Ayers, Calafia Café

Kyle Itani, Hopscotch

Avery Holt, Puccini & Pinetti
Tickets are $60 for general admission. To buy tickets and for more details go to San Francisco Fans of Lamb.
A portion of the proceeds from Lamb Jam SF will benefit La Cocina‎, a non-profit organization dedicated to cultivating low income food entrepreneurs, providing affordable commercial kitchen space, industry-specific technical assistance and access to market opportunities.
For more information about the Lamb Jam or the American Lamb Board, please visit the American Lamb Board 
Disclaimer: I was a guest at the preview luncheon hosted by the American Lamb Board.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Mixed Green Salad with Strawberry Blue Cheese Dressing


I find myself being possessive these days.  Words like "mine" and "mommy's" are being bandied about so often you would think I was getting paid to catalog the entirety of the contents under this roof.  Even my friend Jess has commented on my possessiveness.

This possessiveness probably is a result of:
a) The commandeering of my unicorn.
b) The recent attempts to kidnap the moose that was given to me to replace the stolen unicorn.  I would just like to point out that the moose actually came with a baby moose.  And the baby moose was given to Max.  So Max actually has his own moose.
c) The encroachment on my headband collection.  Yes I still wear headbands. And I recently purchased a 6-pack of polka-dotted headbands in various colors.  Max loved the green one so I handed it over to him.  But that apparently isn't enough.  He wants them all.  As though he is concerned about properly accessorizing his wardrobe of striped tee-shirts and sweatpants.

So after playing defense against all the toddler invasions, it is nice to have something that is mine.  Jenn's salad.  A salad with strawberry blue cheese dressing.  A category of food that is safe from the hands of the little guy.  It has turned me into one of... them.  But only for a minute.

I'm totally loving this article on Cooking Light - they have categorized some dishes on the basis of "mood!" Though I didn't see a category for "possessive," they've totally got you covered if you are feeling nostalgic, romantic, adventurous, relaxed, or happy!

Ingredients
scant 1 cup chopped strawberries
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons raspberry vinegar
2 ounces blue cheese
1 tablespoon roasted and salted pepitas
freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:
1 cup chopped romaine lettuce
4 cups mixed greens
2 chopped scallions
1/2 cup torn basil
handful sliced strawberries
1-2 tablespoons roasted and salted pepitas
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions
For the dressing: Blend the dressing ingredients together with an immersion or regular blender.

For the salad:  In a large bowl, toss the lettuce, scallions, basil, sliced strawberries, and pepitas.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste.  Toss the salad with desired amount of strawberry dressing.

Friday, July 12, 2013

A Review - ProCook Gourmet Stainless Steel 11" Frying Pan

A new review post!
Today we are taking a look at the ProCook Gourmet Stainless Steel 11" Frying Pan.
Click HERE for the review!

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Battle of the Bloggers - Za'atar and Sesame Zucchini Bites with a Sesame Lemon Dipping Sauce

Here we are posting another zucchini recipe this week, acting as though we have a garden and an abundance of zucchini that we are desperately trying to use up.  This is not the case.  No such garden exists.  Between all the bugs, dirt, allergies, and bugs, I can safely say that gardening is not my thing. 

My reason for posting zucchini again - these thick slices of zucchini are coated and baked in a mixture of panko, za’atar, and sesame seeds, and served with a lemon-sesame dipping sauce - comes from a very non-altruistic place.  

I have such a huge favor to ask of you.  If you like this recipe, I would love for you to to vote for it!

Smart Balance is running a Battle of the Bloggers competition.  The blogger whose recipe receives the most votes at the end of the contest will win a yearlong contract with Smart Balance to develop recipes!  

To vote for the entry (it's super quick):
 •  CLICK HERE to head to the Battle of the Bloggers Facebook app!  Then vote!

You will even have a chance to win prizes, including Calphalon products and a year's supply of Smart Balance products!  The contest runs now through August 11th.  

Ingredients
For the bites:
2 medium zucchini, cut into slices (about 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch thick)
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups panko
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon za'atar
2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds
ground sumac, for sprinkling
paprika, for sprinkling
Smart Balance Cooking Spray

For the dip:
1/4 cup Smart Balance Omega Plus Mayonnaise
1/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon tahini
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon honey
pinch ground sumac
1/2 teaspoon za'atar
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds, plus more for serving

Instructions
To make the zucchini bites:
Heat oven to 400.  Place buttermilk in a shallow bowl.  Mix together panko, salt, pepper, za'atar, and sesame seeds.  Place in a second shallow bowl.  Dip each zucchini slice first in buttermilk and then in the panko mixture.  Repeat for each slice.  Place on lined baking sheet.  Sprinkle each bite with just a pinch of sumac and paprika.  Spray the zucchini bites with cooking spray.  Bake for about 15-20 minutes until golden brown.

To make the dipping sauce:
Stir all ingredients together.  Adjust salt and pepper to taste.  Sprinkle sesame seeds on top before serving.