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Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Day 113 - Monaco - Langoustine a la Provencale - Up Next, Mongolia




This was one of the most interesting dishes I've made thus far because it used cocoa nibs, something I'd never heard of. Once I found the recipe, I had to Google "cocoa nibs" to find out what the mystery ingredient was. Turns out they're simply roasted cocoa bean pieces that have a very slightly chocolaty (not sweet) nutty flavor and crunchy texture and can be used in lieu of nuts, in baking, on ice cream or yogurt...basically anywhere you want crunch and rich flavor.  And, as so often happens with hard to locate items, Whole Foods hooked me up once again.

Original Painting
Joelle Feldman
The Mediterranean flavors of this meal: lemons, oranges, thyme, bay leaves, garlic, tomatoes, onions and olive oil which made a "ragout", all heaped atop langoustinos, a much smaller version of what we know as lobsters, made for a light, delicious and beautiful dish. This is the kind of eating that satisfies all the senses and is kind to the waistline. Dare I say, "winning"?

The other coolsweet thing that happened today is that I picked up the first batch of my spring salad CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) greens from Hopestill Farm - beautiful baby spinach and kale that were the backbone of tonight's meal. Shout out to Richard Robinson for including me in this opportunity to benefit from and support local agriculture.

Officially the principality of Monaco, the country of Monaco is a micro-state located in south western Europe on the northern central coast of the Mediterranean Sea, neighboring France and Italy. Monaco is a constitutional monarchy, headed by Prince Albert II. Although the country is independent, it's national defense is France's responsibility.

Because of Monaco's subtropical climate and mountains, it is a country tourists are naturally drawn to. Seafood, especially cod, is a staple of the country's cuisine. And, due to it's proximity to France and Italy, the cuisine reflects the exquisite pastry and lovely pasta both countries are known for. Vegetables, fruit and grains are all enjoyed in this beautiful country.







Langoustines a la Procencale Recipe (Adapted from Celtnet.org.uk)

1 lb. langoustine meat
10 Tbsp. olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely sliced
1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
3/4 cup carrots, diced
3/4 cup onions, diced
3/4 cup celery, diced
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
flat leaf parsley for garnish
4 tomatoes, blanched, peeled and diced (I didn't blanche or peel them)
cocoa nibs, to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Mixed young salad greens

Saute langoustine in olive oil for about 3 minutes until heated through. Remove to keep warm.
Heat remaining oil and saute garlic, orange and lemon zest gently for about 5 minutes. Add carrots, onions, celery and herbs and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft. Remove the bay leaves and thyme then season with salt and pepper.
Stir in the diced tomato and cocoa nibs and allow to heat through. Divide the langoustines between 4 plates, spoon the ragout over and around the langoustine and salad and serve.

Final Assessment: I think I need to go to Monaco to sample more of their cuisine. I love to eat like this - simple, clean food, fresh ingredients, easy to prepare, satisfying and beautiful to look at. A+

Betelnut "Offal Good" Secret Menu

I haven't said much about my new role as editor at BlackboardEats, but I'm breaking my silence today. I really enjoy assigning reviews, sharing deals at top restaurants and working with chefs and restaurateurs to create exclusive culinary experiences. Most weeks subscribers get 30% off at a noteworthy restaurant, but today something a bit different is on offer that I'm excited to tell you about. Chef Alex Ong at Betelnut has put together a menu utilizing offal, in particular veal sweetbreads, chicken livers, lamb tongue and fish heads. Chef Alex Ong grew up in Malaysia, a country of many culinary influences including Thai, Chinese and Indian and his dishes reflect those flavors. Three of the dishes are based on Malaysian street food dishes and one is a very special curry served for celebrations.

veal sweetbreads
One of the Chinese style dishes is salt and pepper veal sweetbreads topped with fresh ginger, garlic and Szechuan peppercorn topped with scallions, five spice, and salt. This dish reminds me most of crispy calamari. The sweetbreads are mild and the vibrant Asian flavors make the dish irresistible.

lamb tongue
A dish with Northern Malaysian and Thai influence is the cured lamb tongue served cold with lime, galanga and crispy taro strips. This almost looks like a sashimi plate! It's very elegant and light.

chicken livers
Another Chinese influenced dish is the crispy chicken livers that come with black pepper sauce and roasted onions. The chef soaks the livers in milk three times then dredges them in cornstarch and deep fries them. The exterior becomes crunchy but the interior remains soft and creamy. You'll want a beer to go with this. Like anything that is fried and crispy, these are addictive.

fish head curry
Nonya cuisine is unique a combination of Chinese and Malay styles. In the South in Singapore you'll find more Indonesian and Indian influences. I've read that fish head curry might have been created in the 1950s by a Keralan chef who wanted to use every edible part of the fish. It is cooked in an Indian style curry of coconut milk, tamarind and shrimp paste. It's a dish served at home for celebrations like birthdays or anniversaries. The cheek and collar meat are most succulent but the curry has okra and cauliflower in it too. It's pure comfort food, whether or not you ate in Singapore.

Betelnut Restaurant
Betelnut is consistently chosen as one of the Top 100 Restaurants by the San Francisco Chronicle. The restaurant is lively and has wonderful atmosphere, with vintage 1920's Shanghai style. While people typically come in for what the chef calls "the happy meal" meaning Cecilia's minced chicken in lettuce cup and Szechuan string beans, I hope they will come to try some of his Malaysian menu specials, available for the next two months for BlackboardEats subscribers only.

If you'd like to try these amazing dishes, I hope you will subscribe to BlackboardEats.com in San Francisco, download a passcode today and enjoy as many of these dishes as you'd like!
Note: These dishes will be available for 60 days, for subscribers who download passcodes.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Oliveto Restaurant

Oliveto
If you live in the Bay Area, it's likely you know about Oliveto. It opened 25 years ago, is located in Rockridge, Oakland and serves wonderful Italian food, with a Slow Food sensibility. You can always count on Oliveto for great pasta, roasted meat and fish, and a commitment to using the best quality ingredients. It's also been the home for several great Bay Area chefs notably Paul Canales, Michael Tusk and Paul Bertolli.

Hoffman farm hen rolata
What's new at Oliveto? A lot, to tell you the truth. For one, there is a new chef, Jonah Rhodehamel. I recently ate at the restaurant and can tell you he approaches cooking with finesse and sense of balance. It's hard to believe someone so young has already spent time at such venerable restaurants as La Folie, Americano and Quince. I particularly loved his Hoffman hen "rolata" stuffed with sausage. It reminded me of a similar preparation I had at Frances last year.

Oliveto cafe pizza
I've always been fond of the pizza served in the cafe downstairs, but it's actually gotten better now that they are using whole grain flour from Community Grains. The flour is very smooth, not rough but has a nutty flavor that really complements cheese, mushrooms and more. Unlike other whole wheat flours, Community Grains makes a flour that is not enriched. You actually get all the parts of the grain, ground together. The flour will soon be available for retail customers.

Tred flint polenta
Another fabulous grain making it's way into Oliveto's menu is red flint polenta. It takes a full three hours to fully hydrate and cook, but the result is something special. Flecked with red, it has texture and body and cooks up thicker than regular yellow cornmeal. I had it topped with egg and greens.

Christmas limas
So new that it's not even on the menu yet, are heirloom beans that Oliveto sourced from a farmer who grows a huge variety of legumes, some that are very unusual. Which ones Oliveto will end up using is still up for discussion. At a recent lunch I got to try the pigeon peas, cannellini and Christmas limas. They were prepared very simply to let their natural flavors shine through. The pigeon peas had good texture, but were not as flavorful as the cannellini which had a natural sweetness and the Christmas limas which were unbelievably meaty. They really tasted as if they had been cooked with beefy bones. The beans were just delicious served up plain, so I can't wait to see how they will make it onto the menu.

Not new, but an annual tradition, Oliveto is hosting their Whole Hog dinners March 9-12, 2011. Each night a different pig is featured, check out the schedule for more details. This is a super popular event but some later seatings are still available.

Oliveto
5655 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
510.547.5356

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Day 112! Moldova - Roast Pork Paprikash (Porc Prajita Cu Paprika) and Moldovan Mamaliga (Polenta) Up Next, Monaco


Were it  not for my husband's best friend stopping over mid-meal preparation, I would have written up this lovely Roast Pork Paprikash dish from Moldova hours ago. But you know, lots of chatting, a little wine, a couple of beers, sporadic chopping, intermittent sauteing, a few photographs and 4 hours later, I'm just sitting down to put it all together. Dag, a girl can be so easily distracted when friends and beer enter her kitchen. Truthfully, I wouldn't have it any other way...I'm just typing a tiny bit slower than I ordinarily would if my butcher block island hadn't been unexpectedly transformed into a bar. Oh, right, the meal...

Located in eastern Europe, Moldova is a landlocked country that shares it's borders with Romania and Ukraine. In 1991, Moldova declared independence as part of the dissolution of the Soviet Union. A strip of the Moldova's internationally recognized territory on the east bank of the Dniester River, has been under de-facto control of a bureaucratic government of Transnistria since 1990, but hopes to become part of the European Union.

Moldova's cuisine can be described as traditional European food, using beef, pork, potatoes, cabbage and cereal as the basis of it's dishes. The country's fertile black soil is ideal for growing grapes, fruit and vegetables and supports live stock who produce milk used in many different types of cheeses. Moldovan agriculture is highly regarded for it's use of traditional farming methods that produce ecologically clean food. Traditions that influence Moldova's cuisine includes Ukrainian, Bulgarian, Gagauz, Lithuanian, Russian, Turkish and Greek flavors.











Moldovan Roast Pork Paprikash (Porc Prajita Cu Paprika) - (Adapted from foodgeeks)

3 lb. pork roast
4 cloves garlic, sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
3 small onions, coarsely chopped
1 Italian (light green frying) pepper, cored, seeded and quartered
4 fresh, ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 rib celery with leaves, cut into 4 pieces
1 1-1/2 cups beef stock or canned broth
2 Tbsp. sweet Hungarian paprika
10 oz. fresh white mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced
1 scant Tbsp. all purpose flour
1/3 cup dry red wine
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 lg. clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 350 F
With a sharp knife, make deep slits all over the meat and insert the garlic slivers, as deep as possible, into the slits. rub the meat with salt and pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large casserole over medium heat. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Off the heat, spread the mustard over the meat with a spatula.
Add the onions, Italian pepper, tomatoes, celery and stock to the casserole. Sprinkle the meat and vegetables with 1/2 teaspoon of the paprika and roast for 1 hour, turning the meat, and basting with the pan juices from time to time. Prick the meat with a meat with a fork; when the juices run clear, the meat is done, but do not over cook.
Remove the roast from the casserole, place on a cutting board, and cover with foil.
Strain the pan juices and skim off the fat. Puree the vegetables in a blender. Add the puree to the pan juices.
Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a small heavy sauce pan over medium heat. Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2 minutes. Whisk in the pan juices.
Add the wine, lemon juice, minced garlic, thyme, parsley and additional salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered for about 10 minutes.
Stir in the mushrooms and the remaining paprika and simmer for 5 minutes more.
Carve the pork into thin slices and arrange on a serving platter, Pass the sauce separately in a sauce boat.

Moldovan Mamaliga (Polenta) - (Adapted from Foodgeeks)

3-1/2 cups water
Salt to taste
1 cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal
5 Tbsp. butter

Combine the water and salt in a heavy sauce pan and bring to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons of the cornmeal in a steady stream and whisk until the water returns to boiling. Next add the rest of the cornmeal, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook the mixture, covered until thickened, about 10 minutes.
Add the butter, a piece at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes more.
Transfer to a medium sized oval bowl and flatten the surface with a wet spoon. Let stand 5 minutes.
Invert the mamaliga onto a plate and sprinkle with parsley.

Final Assessment: This was great meal and would be perfect for a dinner party or family gathering. I wouldn't suggest planning it unless you have some time, as it takes some preparation beyond what one would reasonably expect to jump into on a week night. The sauce, which I understand Moldovan's love, made the meal. Pureeing the vegetables released all their glorious flavors and roasted-sugariness that was plate-licking good. And, anything with mushrooms is boss.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

day 111.5 - Toasted Hazelnut Nutella Cookies


The inspiration for these cookies goes to a great friend and neighbor whose proper name shall remain undisclosed except for his moniker: The Mayor. Lest you think such a distinguished title sounds self-aggrandizing, I'm here to tell you that given his military service to our country, civic pride and contribution to the community, not to mention his gift for getting any job done, the name is spot-on.



You see, The Mayor LOVES Nutella. I've seen him spread it on English Muffins at an early morning business meeting while the rest of us were just getting into our coffee. And, although I can't prove it, I'll bet cash-money that he tip-toes into the kitchen late at night to scoop a tablespoon or two of the heavenly scented stuff directly from the jar, licking the spoon clean. Waste not, want not.


The beauty of these cookies is that they're so straightforward and easy to make. Unlike many fussy recipes that involve 10 zillion steps, this one gets right to the point and delivers - just like my friend, The Mayor.






Toasted Hazelnut Nutella Cookies (Adapted from the awesome The Pioneer Woman)

2 cups Nutella
1 cup sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour**
2 whole eggs
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped (optional)

**If you use the chopped hazelnuts, you may need to sprinkle a little more flour into the dough as the nuts release extra oil. Add just a tablespoon at a time until you get the right consistency.

Preheat oven to 350
Chop hazelnuts and spread on cookie sheet - toast in preheated oven for about 7-8 minutes (watch carefully to avoid scorching)
In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or a hand mixer, blend all ingredients together well.
Form dough into 1" balls and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.
Using the palm of your hand or a flat-bottom glass, press cookies down firmly.
Bake 8-9 minutes, or until set.
Let sit on the cookie sheet for about 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool.
Pour yourself a big glass of cold milk or hot cup of tea and prepare to launch.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Brussels Sprout & Leek Dumplings Recipe

Brussels Sprout & Leek Dumplings
Do you know the difference between dumplings and ravioli? The secret is the pasta, and it occurred to me when I was creating this recipe. To make ravioli you use pasta dough, which, while silky is still toothsome (al dente). Dumplings can use any kind of dough, including slick wonton skins, which are most definitely not toothsome. Of course there are some exceptions to this rule. I've had some very silky udon noodles lately that use soft, slippery noodles and I've had potstickers which definitely use thicker, chewier dough.

I used to make fresh pasta but I'm too lazy these days, instead I've been experimenting with using wonton wrappers. In the past I used the wrappers to make Afghani leek dumplings called aushak. This time I made dumplings in a similar way, but filled them with a combination of brussels sprouts, leeks, green onions, a bit of garlic and parmesan. Many kinds of ingredients or even leftovers can go in wonton wrappers to make delicious dumplings--meat, cheese, mashed roasted vegetables. Another one of my favorite ways is to fill wonton wrappers is with mashed potatoes. I boil the dumplings and then serve them with butter or sour cream for a quick comforting meal. I even make a simple samosa by mixing mashed potatoes with peas and spices then lightly oiling the dumplings and baking them.

If you haven't tried using wonton wrappers before, or have only used them for making wontons, my advice is, experiment! You can make a filling of your choice then make just one dumpling or two to test and see how you like it. If you make a big batch, freeze them in a single layer on a baking sheet then transfer to a ziplock bag and they'll keep in the freezer for months.


Brussels Sprout & Leek Dumplings42 dumplings

Ingredients

2 teaspoons oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups leeks, green and white parts, shredded
2 cups brussels sprouts, thinly shredded
2/3 cup, about 4 green onions, thinly shredded
2 Tablespoons Parmesan cheese
Pinch freshly ground nutmeg and black pepper
Wonton wrappers

2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts
Parmesan cheese

Instructions

Heat a large non-stick pan and add the oil and garlic. Stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then add the leeks, brussels sprouts and green onions. Cooking, stirring occasionally until wilted, about 5-7 minutes. Remove from the stove and allow to cool slightly before mixing in the cheese, nutmeg and pepper. Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.

To make the dumplings, line up the wrappers, bowl of filling and a small bowl with water. Place a teaspoon of the filling in the center of a wonton wrapper then moisten the edges of the wonton wrapper with water. Fold the wonton wrapper in half diagonally, making sure the ends meet. Press down firmly on the edges to seal.

Meanwhile combine lemon juice and olive oil to drizzle on the finished dumplings. Boil the dumplings in boiling water for a couple of minutes, or until they float to the surface. Drain and serve with the olive oil and lemon juice and a sprinkling of additional cheese and toasted nuts. Note: I reserve a bit of the sauteed vegetables as a garnish as well so guests have a better idea of what is inside each dumpling.

Enjoy!

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Day 111! Micronesia - Coconut Chicken Curry - Up Next, Moldova


Until I set out to cook this Coconut Chicken Curry dish from Micronesia, I wasn't exactly sure where/what Micronesia constituted. Chalk it up to ignorance, Euro-centric geography classes that focused more on explorers who wiped out indigenousness people all over the world with disease, violence and greed. Whatever the reason, I think (and hope) that tonight's meal was a wonderful and delicious representation of some of the 2,100 tropical Islands that make up Micronesia and the people who call them home.

Micronesia is a sub region country in the Western Pacific Ocean. It is distinct from Melanesia, to the south, Polynesia to the east and the Philippines and Indonesia. It's name is derived from the Greek, Mikros (meaning small) and Nesos (meaning island).  For hundreds of years, the islands were under the domination of the Spanish, U.S., Germany and British empires.

The country's people are descended from the indigenous people, Melanesians, Filipino and Polynesian ancestors. As such, cuisine in this country reflects Spanish, Malay and Chinese cultures. Food can be characterized as fairly mild, not using a lot of hot peppers for seasoning. Rice, fish, seafood of all kinds, sauces, spices, curries, banana leaves, taro, bread fruit, coconut and coconut milk are all staples in Micronesia.








Micronesian Coconut Chicken Curry

2 lbs. chicken, cut to pieces (I used boneless, skinless chicken thighs)
2-3 potatoes, quartered
2-3 carrots, cut into small pieces
1 big red bell pepper, cut into 1x1 cubes
1 big green bell pepper, cut into 1x1 cubes
2 medium onions, chopped
1 bulb of garlic, minced
1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, pounded
2 cups coconut milk (I used light and added a little extra)
2-3 Tbsp. curry powder
1 tsp. chili powder or minced chili (optional)
4 Tbsp. cooking oil
Salt and pepper to taste

In a frying pan, fry the cut chicken until light brown. Next, fry potatoes and carrots, then set aside.
In a sauce pan, saute garlic, onions and ginger in cooking oil for 2 minutes.
Add the chicken, coconut milk, curry powder and chili powder. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Add potatoes, carrots, red and green bell peppers and continue to simmer for another 5 minutes or until soft
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve hot with steamed rice.

Final Assessment: AWWWWWWWWW yeah. This was so great. The combination of curry, coconut milk, ginger, garlic and all the vegetables was both sweet and spicy in the best imaginable way. I'm hoping the savages in my house leave me a little for lunch tomorrow. A+, and pretty too.