Ed Kenny talks Hawaiian Food

I've been a fan of the restaurant Town in Kaimuki since I first dined there back in 2008. I always make a point of visiting whenever I'm in Honolulu.

Ed Kenney is the chef and owner, and a great voice for sustainability in the food system. He's very approachable, in fact you'll see him shopping at the farmers market most weekends. He also has his finger on the pulse of what's happening so on my last visit I got a sat down to chat with him about the local Oahu food scene and since I'm heading back tomorrow, I thought it's about time I shared this interview...

What do you think would surprise most people about the food scene here?
We have different kinds of visitors, the Cheesecake Factory here is the highest grossing location in the world. Then there are the Opentable people who look for places to eat before they even get here, but it's still a small group. People know the chains and the upper crust spots, but what makes it really amazing is the middle range and finding out about that takes a motivated foodie traveler. It's the middle range that's so diverse. And the diversity is blossoming.

What are your thoughts on the food truck trend? Any trucks you particularly like or patronize?
There have always been food trucks, it's beach thing, people get out of the ocean dry off and want to get something to eat. But the culinarily driven ones are new. It's a stepping stone, also it adds diversity, Zaratez, from LA tacos. Melt is run by Nobu alums, so fine dining is going more approachable. Soul Patrol, Sean's a good friend. The food is excellent. It's heavy stuff. Camille's on Wheels is run by a home cook, and it's got a really homey feel. Deep dish pies with flaky crust, fusion tacos. I haven't been to Eat the Street yet because I'm working that night.

So where should the visiting foodie dine?
The Pig and the Lady, Plancha, some of the pop up roving restaurants have young passionate, creative chefs.

Which chef or restaurant impresses you these days?
Mark Noguchi at He'eia Pier. (Note: More on Hee'eia Pier after my next visit)

How would you describe Town for people who haven't been?
We're very italian. The regional manager of Gucci comes to Town every time he visits and says "This is not Italian but it is the essence of Italian food" and that's because because we have an Italian sensibility.

What should visitors not miss when they come to Hawaii, in terms of ingredients?
We can grow everything here, I'd like to think native Hawaiians would grow arugula today. Our locally grown vegetables even non-native ones are great. Paia hand pounded taro. We use it in breads and in dough. We slice and pan fry it crispy on the outside and mochi like inside. We've had invasive seaweeds, so it's good to eat those! Cooking with seaweed is like adding the sea to a dish.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Herbed Noodles

This is a recipe for those lazy weekend days where time is in abundance.  Though there are a lot of steps, some of them can be done and then set aside.  I like to get the mushrooms browned and onions braised, then take a break and finish the rest later in the afternoon.  French cooking techniques allow you to get some truly decadent flavors and textures, and we love the way the herbed noodles underneath pick up all that thick, delicious sauce.

Ingredients
Browned mushrooms:
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Brown braised onions:
6 ounces pearl onions, peeled (it helps place in boiling water for 3 minutes and then rinse with cold water)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup red wine
¼ cup chicken broth
1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs parsley, and 2 sprigs oregano wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni

Garlic and Herb Paste:
1/3 cup chopped fresh oregano
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
7 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Braised Chicken Thighs:
1 pound chicken thighs (bone-in, skin on)
1 ½ tablespoons butter
1 ½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 ½ cups red wine
1 ½ cups chicken broth
1 ½ tablespoons tomato paste
1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs parsley, and 2 sprigs oregano, 1 sprig thyme wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni

Herbed Noodles:
1 pound spaghetti (or noodle of choice)
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon garlic oil
2 cups chopped parley
¼ cup chopped oregano
¼ cup chopped tarragon
2 cups arugula, wilted and chopped
1/3 cup grated parmeggiano reggiano cheese

Instructions
1) brown mushrooms:
Melt the butter and olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat.  Once the butter has melted and the bubbles in the mixture have started to subside, add the chopped mushrooms.  Stir continuously, allowing the mushrooms to absorb the butter and oil mixture.  After a few minutes, once the mushrooms have begun to brown and release their juices take off heat.  Sprinkle with dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Set aside.

2) brown braise onions:
Melt butter and oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat.  When the butter and oil mixture starts to bubble, add the onions.  Roll the onions in the mixture to ensure as even browning as possible.  Once the onions are brown, which takes about 7 minutes, add the red wine, chicken broth and bouquet garni.  Bring the mixture to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to low, simmering for 35-45 minutes, or until the braising liquid has evaporated. Remove bouquet garni.  Set aside.

3) prepare garlic and herb paste:
In small bowl, mix together fresh herbs, minced garlic, butter and salt until a paste is formed. 

4) prep and braise chicken thighs:
Under the skin of each chicken thigh, generously spread garlic and herb paste.  In a Dutch oven or large pot, melt the butter and olive oil over high heat.  Place the chicken thighs in the Dutch oven, making sure the pieces do not overlap.  You want the pieces of chicken to get nice and brown.  Brown both sides of the chicken, about 6 minutes each.  Once browned, add the red wine, chicken broth, tomato paste, and bouquet garni.  Bring to a boil then lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the chicken is tender and cooked through.  Remove bouquet garni and stir in the browned mushrooms and braised onions. 

5) prepare herbed noodles:
Cook spaghetti according to package directions.  While still hot, place cooked spaghetti in a large bowl, and coat with butter and garlic oil.  Toss with parsley, oregano, tarragon, and arugula, and sprinkle grated cheese.

To serve, plate noodles with chicken and sauce on top.

Day 178! Togo ~ Peanut Chicken with Black Eyed Peas and Spinach - Up Next, Trinidad and Tobago

In my humble opinion, there's never a bad time to throw down a heaping plate of hearty peanut stew, black eyed peas and spinach...which is exactly what I'm doing as I write this Togolese entry. My forlorn laptop is embarrassingly covered with sticky finger prints, flour, and now peanut butter - but it's all good! Deceptively easy to prepare, this stew is both healthy and tasty, as the chicken breasts are steamed, then added to a lightly sauteed combination of onions, garlic, a dash of hot pepper flakes, tomatoes and peanut butter. If you're interested in West African cooking, and want to try an easy dish, this might just be the one for you. I opted not to serve it with rice, but traditionally, it can be accompanied by white rice, couscous, plantains, or any combination of beans, leaf greens or okra.

A narrow country on Africa's west coast, Togo is bordered by Ghana, Benin and Burkina Faso. Formed as part of the slave coast from where captives were shipped abroad by European slave traders during the 17 century, Togo became a German protectorate in 1884. At the start of WWI, Togo was seized by Britain and France, divided and administered under the League of Nations Mandates. The British ruling the western part and incorporating that area into what is now Ghana. In 1960, Togo gained independence, but civil unrest, controversial elections and the assassination of the country's first president led to coups, civil rights violations and the devastating loss of innocent lives. Togo's climate is sub-Saharan and provides a good growing climate, which supports agriculture as the country's primary form of revenue. The official language is French, but Gbe is largely spoken as well. The majority of religious sects are indigenous, followed by Christian and Muslim believers. Ethnic groups include Ewe, Mina Tem, Tchamba and Kabre.

Cuisine in Togo has both indigenous and Colonial roots. For example, German beer and baguettes are regularly enjoyed. Food is mainly spicy and colorful, with maize widely eaten as pate, served with spicy sauces, meats, smoked fish, thick peanut-based or tomato stews. Aklui porridge is widely eaten for breakfast. Vegetables and starches include, okara, ademe, spinach, beans, black eyed peas, fufu (boiled, mashed yams), cassava and plantains. And of course, peanut chicken.

Onions, garlic and a little hot pepper flavors the peanut stew

The recipe called for stewed tomatoes, but I only had canned plum tomatoes, which were fine

 Boneless, skineless chicken breasts are steamed in a little water 

 Save the broth for later

 Use two forks to shred the chicken

Creamy peanut butter (ground nut) thickens and flavors much West African cooking

 Saute onions, garlic and chili pepper in olive oil, then add chicken, tomatoes and peanut butter 

 I served the stew with steamed baby spinach and black eyed peas ~ right on!

Togolese Peanut Chicken (Adapted from Food.com)

1/2 lb chicken breast , boneless, skinless
1 (14 ounce) can stewed tomatoes
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup onion , chopped
1 garlic clove , minced
3 tablespoons peanut butter
Hot pepper flakes to taste (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:


1. Boil 1/2" of water in pan. Add chicken, cover, and steam 12-15 minutes.
2. Drain chicken and shred it with 2 forks on a cutting board.
3. Meanwhile heat oil in frying pan. Saute onions and garlic about 6 minutes, until translucent.
4. Stir in shredded chicken, tomatoes, and peanut butter. Heat 5 minutes.
5. Serve with rice, black eyed peas and spinach.






© 2010-2011, What's Cooking in Your World? Sarah Commerford/All Rights Reserved

Lime Spiced Cashews

Spiced nuts are such a perfect snack for entertaining.  They  take minutes to make, they can be made a few days in advance, and they have that easy to munch quality that'll keep your guests coming back for just one more handful... and one more... and one more...  They can also be a great opportunity to bring together different flavors without appearing intimidating.  Here we combine just a tiny bit of hickory smoked flavor with the spice of various ground peppers and top it off with the fresh, sweet and sour taste of lime.  These nuts pack a shocking amount of flavor and are so much healthier than any of the prepackaged stuff. 

Ingredients

5 ounces plain, unsalted cashews

2 tablespoons butter

½ teaspoon liquid smoke

1 ½ tablespoons Spice Mix

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 limes, cut into wedges

Spice Mix:

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

2 teaspoons paprika

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon cayenne

¾ teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground thyme

½ teaspoon oregano

Instructions

In a small bowl, mix the brown sugar and spices together.

In a large sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat.  Add the cashews, ½ teaspoon liquid smoke, and 1 ½ tablespoons spice mix.  Sauté for about 3-4 minutes, until cashews turn golden brown.  Take off heat, and sprinkle another ¼ teaspoon kosher salt on the cashews.  When cashews have cooled, squeeze fresh lime juice over the spiced nuts. Remaining spice mix can be saved for another time.

The Good Food Awards 2012 January 13-14

Photo credit: Marc Fiorito

Now in it's second year, the Good Food Awards comes to the San Francisco Ferry Building this weekend. It's a celebration of food in the categories of beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles, preserves and spirits. The awards draw attention to the most delicious, authentic (no artificial ingredients) and responsible food (GMO-free, respect and fair compensation). More details on the guiding principles here.

The awards are a great way to learn about some of the best speciality foods being produced in America today and if you come to the award ceremony or the marketplace, a chance to meet the makers firsthand. After the winners are announced, the winning products and the rest of the finalists and even last year's winners, will be available nationwide in a dedicated Good Food Awards e-store on Gilt Taste. Other sponsors include Whole Foods Market, Williams-Sonoma and Bi-Rite Market so expect some of the winners to be carried at those stores as well.

Last year's winners included some of my favorite things, including prosciutto from La Quercia, Red Hawk cheese from Cowgirl Creamery. the Salty Sweet Cashew bar from Charles Chocolates and the Ellelle Kitchen's Central Coast Raspberry jam. If you are not in the industry and attending the Fancy Food Show next week (or even if you are), this is a great way to discover new and tasty things.

Marketplace
Taste, buy and celebrate the award winning products from craft producers in 26 states who are redefining ‘good food’ by creating products that are not only tasty, but also authentic and responsibly produced.

Saturday, January 14, 9:00am-2:00pm (8:00am-9:00am with Early Access ticket) at the San Francisco Ferry Building
General Admission: $5 suggested donation at the door
Beer &Spirits Garden: $12 (includes 5 tastes and entry to Marketplace)
"Early Access" Tickets: $15


Awards ceremony & reception
Meet the 99 Good Food Award Winners, mingle with Ruth Reichl, Alice Waters, William Werner and many more at the gala reception. Enjoy small plates featuring the winning products (as envisioned by Foreign Cinema, Boxing Room, Bar Agricole and more) and an open bar with famed mixologists, the Bon Vivants. 

Friday, January 13, 8-10 pm at the San Francisco Ferry Building
Tickets: $100

Fresh Fettuccine with Orange Prosciutto Cream Sauce

2012 is the start of a whole new era for us, an era filled with heaping mounds of fresh, homemade pasta, thanks to my new Christmas present, a shiny, beautiful, Atlas 150 Pasta Maker.  This is something we have been wanting for a long time, and I have to say, it is well worth the 85 bucks, especially if you make pasta a lot.  These noodles taste shockingly delicious right out of the boiling water!  After a trial run or two to get used to the process, we officially celebrated this appliance’s homecoming into our kitchen by making one of our favorite, and very distinctive, Italian pasta dishes.  This is our heavily modified, and even more flavorful, take on a pasta recipe from Bon Appetit.  With the prominent orange flavor and complimentary spiciness and saltiness of red pepper and prosciutto, add some peas for depth and color, it is surprising how addictive this dish can be, given the unusual flavor profile.

Ingredients

4 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 shallot, minced

4 ounces prosciutto, chopped into 1 inch chunks

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

zest and juice of 2 oranges

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup frozen peas
1 pound fresh (or dried) fettuccine

freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Boil water in a large pot, seasoning generously with salt.  Add pasta and cook for about 2 minutes (if using fresh pasta).  You want the pasta to be about a minute from al dente (or fully al dente with thicker fresh pasta) so that it can finish cooking in the sauce.  Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water and then drain. 

In a large sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter.  Add the shallots and sauté for 2 minutes.  Add the prosciutto pieces and sauté until browned, about 3 minutes.  Sprinkle in the crushed red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute.  Add heavy cream, orange juice, orange zest, and ½ cup reserved pasta water.  Bring mixture to a boil and add the almost-cooked pasta, peas, and remaining ½ tablespoon butter.  Once pasta is cooked, season with salt and pepper to taste.

Sweet Treats for January

It's January and while Christmas cookie season is officially over, some of us still need a treat before Valentine's Day rolls around....


When I was offered samples of Almondina cookies I was happy to accept. I'm already a big fan of these crunchy cookie crisps with chewy bits of fruit. But I had no idea how many flavors there were. I have always bought the original version which has almonds and raisins. Like a very thin style of Italian biscotti, they are hard and crunchy but some have a chewy bit of fruit like raisins or cherries. They also come in a bran version that I think would be particularly good for breakfast. The spice versions of the cooke in cinnaroma, gingerspice and pumpkin spice are all great, so are the chocolate ones, and still only about 100 calories for 3.

Almondina cookies are perfect for those who are trying to eat healthier. They are so low in sugar, they actually make a very good cookie to add to a cheese plate. There is no butter or oil in the base recipe, so the only fat in the cookies comes from nuts, seeds or grains. I highly recommend them.

Win free cookies from Almondina! Contest now on their Facebook page.


Another treat this month has got to be King cake. It is associated with Epiphany and Christmas in Europe and is a Mardi Gras specialty in the Gulf states. Generally speaking, it's one of the most garish looking cakes I've ever seen.

Sadly many versions of it are not very good, but the version from Sucré in New Orleans is worth seeking out and easily available by mail order. First of all it's quite pretty compared to the usual cakes splashed with gobs of white icing and plenty of gold, green and purple sparkles. It has a subdued sheen and iridescent shine. But best of all, it is not mushy and bland as some King cakes are, but is a delicate coffeecake with a restrained swirl of cinnamon and traces of cream cheese. Perfect with a cup of coffee or tea.

My thanks to both Almondina and Sucre Bakery for sending me samples.