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Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Brown Butter Blondies with Chocolate Maple Glaze


Ugh I hate packing.  I think I somehow manage to both overpack and underpack at the same time.  It is a gift.  I was looking for the new toothbrush holders that had been picked up a few days ago, and I knew I saw them the day before.  I had looked right at them in their bag.  Somehow, during those hours, they got lost.  I don't understand how that happens! Am I getting old and senile?  Did I just imagine toothbrush holders?  Was the whole act of going to the drugstore and placing said holders in my basket, checking out, and then coming home with them just an elaborate fantasy in my head?  Is it a trick being played by some sort of supreme being?  Did the cats take off with the package and wrap yarn around it?  Did Max claim it for his own, burying it under a forgotten pile of toys?  Did it disappear through a wormhole into an alternate dimension?  I HAVE NO IDEA! It is confusing.  I was so annoyed about this situation.  I know it really isn't a big deal in the scheme of life, but it doesn't take away from how frustrating it feels at the moment.  So I tried to let it go (okay, lets face it, I'm not really letting it go) and accept the fact that the toothbrush holders have found a new home and would not be accompanying us on our trip.  Then I went to the kitchen and made these.  Eating these made me feel better.

Ingredients
For the blondies:
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup toasted walnuts, ground
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons semisweet chocolate chips

For the glaze:
1/4 cup chocolate chips
pinch salt
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon half and half

Instructions
Heat oven to 350.  Grease an 8x8 baking pan.  In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, kosher salt, and ground walnuts.  In a medium skillet, melt the butter.  Keep and eye on the butter, it will become foamy and brown specks will be at the bottom of the pan, and it will have a wonderful nutty fragrance.  Take off heat and stir in brown sugar and maple syrup.  Let the mixture cool.  Once cool, whisk in egg, egg yolk, and vanilla.  Stir in flour mixture and then the chocolate chips.  Bake for about 25 minutes, until  the top is golden brown and it has cooked all the way through.  Let cool.  To make the glaze, place the chocolate chips, salt, maple syrup, and half and half in a microwavable bowl and microwave for 30 seconds to a minute (you want everything to be nice and melted together).  Stir, then use a pastry brush to glaze the blondies.

Adapted from the blondies recipe in Joy of Cooking  

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Fall in Coffee Form


So I totally got (stole?) this idea from my friend Jess.  We were on the phone talking about fall and coffee, fall flavored coffee, and how much we love all of that.  You would probably be amazed by how often this comes up as a topic. We haven't seemed to exhaust this subject.  We clearly are not adults, but children.  Children who drink coffee.  Incidentally, Max would like to be one of those.  He loves swiping sips from my mug.  I have learned to guard my mug more carefully.  But just the other day Jess and I were talking about FAVORITE COLORS.  We were having the same conversations that preschoolers have.  I'm guessing tomorrow will bring some in-depth explorations on our favorite and least favorite animals.

Jess was talking about how she loves getting pumpkin pie flavored coffee and stirring in cream and maple syrup.  I was like oh my god, that might be one of the best things ever.  So the next morning, I added some pumpkin pie spices to the coffee grounds before brewing as usual, and then stirred in a maple syrup mixture.   It was... well... Fall, in coffee form.  Pretty much the only way I can experience Fall here.

But not longer!  This Thursday, Seth, Max and I are heading back East, and we get to do all those awesomely cheesy festive autumn things - like pumpkin patches, and hay rides, and corn mazes, and apple orchards. Jess and I can drink this coffee - together!  All while we talk about very important life subjects such as favorite colors and favorite animals.

Ingredients
For the spice mixture:
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground clove
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

For the maple syrup cream:
1/2 cup half and half
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon fresh orange juice
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
pinch kosher salt
cinnamon sticks, for serving
orange wedges, for serving

Instructions
Mix all the spices together. Brew with your favorite coffee.  I used 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture with a scant 1/2 cup of coffee grounds in my 8 cup french press.

Whisk half and half, maple syrup, orange juice, vanilla extract, and salt in a bowl (or shake in a sealed jar).  Pour desired amount into the spiced coffee, serve with cinnamon sticks and orange wedges.

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Baked Apples with Pine Nuts, Juniper Berries, and Orange


It is surprising to me that apples in this day and age still have cores.  I mean, watermelons and grapes are now seedless.  Apples are wondering when their day is coming.  Okay, I'm wondering that.  I'd also advocate for pit-free cherries.

I thought it would be all meditative and soothing to be coring apples (and I only did 4!).  Looking back, I have no idea why I thought that would be the case.  At all.  For one thing, I am completely incapable of having those kinds of attributes.  Instead, I lean towards "anxious" and "stressed."  I feel like that is something I need to work on, but that just makes me more anxious.  So it is what it is.  And yes, I've tried the whole yoga thing.
Secondly, maybe the 90 degree weather also played a part in making things not so fun.  Okay, probably a large part of it. In addition to being the anxious type, I am also stubborn and delusional - stubborn in that, since September 1, I have declared it to be Autumn here... and delusional since "here" is Southern California.  It has been like 90 here the past few days.  And it is October.  I'm confused by this.  But because it is Autumn, I must do Autumn things.  Even if the weather doesn't cooperate.  And perhaps I should consider one of those apple corer gadgets.  But despite the annoyance of taking out the cores and the overbearing heat, I loved every bite of these.  Completely and utterly worth the hassle.  

Ingredients 
4 granny smith apples, cored
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
pinch salt
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/4 teaspoon all spice
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 1/2 teaspoons orange juice
1/2 cup brandy
1/2 cup water
vanilla whipped cream, for serving

Instructions
Heat oven to 350.  In a medium bowl, mix together the brown sugar, juniper berries, melted butter, salt, pine nuts, all spice, orange juice, and orange zest.  Fill the apples with brown sugar mixture.  In a small bowl, mix brandy and water, and any remaining brown sugar mixture.  Place the stuffed apples in ovenproof dish, then pour the brandy mixture on the bottom.  Bake for about 45 minutes or until the apples are tender but hold their shape.  Serve with vanilla whipped cream.

The Food of Israel

The Israel we know is a land of contradictions and conflicts and common ground can be hard to find. But having just been there, I can say the notable exception to this, is the food. The food is really, really good, and something everyone enjoys with gusto whether it's fine dining or street food. Like the country itself, the food is very diverse. And while the history and scenery might be enough for some tourists, I came for the food. Not just because it's good, but because it provides a window into the culture and the people living there.

While there is diversity in people, politics, heritage, beliefs, religion and more in Israel--enthusiasm and appreciation of food surely is universal. Frankly, it's hard to think of a place with more diverse cuisine; their most famous dishes come from all over the world and use the great local ingredients that are readily available thanks to the climate and often innovative agricultural techniques not to mention Israeli tenacity. 

I thought I knew what food in Israel would be--hummus, falafel, olives and the like. I did find all of those things, but I also discovered so much more. Israel is a country of immigrants and refugees from all over the world and they bring their culinary traditions which become woven into the fabric of a modern country that is thousands of years old, but was declared the State of Israel some 64 years ago.

Here are some common and delectable dishes I tried in Tel Aviv that were (mostly) new to me.

Sabich

Oh my, this is the egg sandwich to end all egg sandwiches. Egg salad, the kind with chopped up hard boiled eggs and mayonnaise is my kryptonite. I cannot stand it. But this unusual combination of thinly sliced fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs, tahini, fresh tomatoes and lettuce, herbs, slivered onions, pickled cabbage and  various hot sauces including amba, a kind of tangy hot, vibrant pickled mango sauce, is something else altogether. Some versions also include thin slices of cooked potato. I know it sounds weird but trust me when I tell you this is one of the most delicious street foods I have ever eaten. It's a riot of flavor and texture and somehow both filling and yet light. Mostly it's layers of soft and silky vegetables but there is juiciness and a little crunch from fresh vegetables too. It was brought to Israel by Iraqi Jews who enjoy it on the Sabbath, because everything can be prepared ahead of time. It's typically eaten either for breakfast or lunch. 

Where to eat it: I read that the version at 2 Tchernichovsky Street was the best and I believe it. It is made with care and costs only around $5, a pittance for a sandwich that is life changing! 

Mafrum

This is another dish I never even heard of before coming to Israel. But I'd go back to Israel just to eat the delicious versions I tried in the Carmel Market. Another dish prepared for the Sabbath, this one comes from Libya. I've also been told it's a Berber dish. Highly spiced meatballs are packed into artichoke hearts or sandwiched between slices of potatoes or eggplant then dredged in flour then egg and fried and finally cooked in a tomato sauce and served. 

Where to eat it: I had it at Dr. Mafrum, Rambam 4 in the Carmel Market

Shakshouka

I first had shakshouka in Morocco, but Israelis have really taken to the dish and it is served just about everywhere, especially for breakfast. It's a cinch to make at home. Just sauté some onions, peppers and add plenty of tomatoes. Cook it into a thick sauce and season it with paprika then poach some eggs in it. Lightly poach the eggs or cook them all the way through, however you prefer. And voila! You have a satisfying dish that demands nothing more than bread to sop up the sauce. 

Where to eat it: Anywhere! I had the best version in someone's home. Thanks to a new service called EatWith, you should soon be able to eat in someone's home too when you are traveling to places like Israel, Italy and Spain.  But I also had it served in a little cast iron pan at Cafe 12, Rothschild 12,  in Neve Tzedek, a very hip neighborhood filled with boutiques and galleries where the beautiful people go. In fact, my dining companion spotted a former Miss Israel, model and actress Gal Gadot who starred in Fast & Furious.

More posts on Israeli cuisine to come! 

This trip was sponsored by Taste of Israel and I was their guest. I was not paid to write this or any other post.

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Food Blogging Resources

Because blogging has been so good to me, I've become a blogging evangelist, often encouraging others to blog too. At first blogging was fairly straight forward, but over the years, it's gotten more complicated. I used to say you could set up a blog in 5 minutes on Blogger. That may still be true, but there's a lot of work involved after that. There is food photography, food writing, and a plethora of social media to participate in. Even though I've been at it for 9 years, I am no expert when it comes to blogging. I have questions and there haven't really been books to turn to, until now.
Food Blogging for Dummies addresses the questions of the food blogger. The format of the book makes it easy to understand things like the pros and cons of self hosting your blog and provides a very basic cheat sheet with some html code. It also covers food photography. While it's not comprehensive, it really does touch on an awful lot. The author is big on name dropping referring to top bloggers by first name--Heidi, David, Elise--but she clearly knows her way around the food blogging world. Though I think it's probably best for the newbie, the seasoned blogger will surely pick up some tips in this book too. 

There are a lot of food photography books, but as a food blogger, chances are, you are also the food stylist. Two new books actually take on this combination. The first is Food Styling and Photography for Dummies. Let me just say at the outset that this book is not specifically targeted at food bloggers, although bloggers will find much of it useful. If you are hoping to make the leap from amateur to professional this is a good book for you since it covers everything from dealing with personnel and sets to professional lighting equipment and pricing models. 

The other book on the subject is Plate to Pixel, digital food photography and styling by noted food blogger and photographer, Helene Dujardin. Ok I'm just going to say it. The overuse of the distressed wooden surfaces in this book drives me a bit bonkers. But there is much to learn about lighting, perspective, equipment and resources. The tone of the book is encouraging and positive. All in all, it's a great book.

Do you need a book on social media? These days everyone is talking about Pinterest, the fastest growing social network of all time.  If you are one of those people who feels like they can't be bothered, think again because it can be an important source of traffic to your blog.

I know some people think it's just a time suck, and a way to ogle at photos, but it's really so much more than that. Pinterest can be a powerful tool for organizing information, finding content and more. Pinterest for Dummies author Kelby Carr jumped on the bandwagon early and is a good guide to getting the most out of Pinterest whether you are new to it or not. I particularly liked the chapter on finding ways to use Pinterest.

Even as someone who has embraced Pinterest I picked up a lot of tips and techniques. The more you learn about Pinterest the more you will get out of it. I also believe the sooner you get involved with it the better. The book is a slim volume but worthwhile. 

Last but not least there are two books that are not new, but that I refer to frequently. The Recipe Writer's Handbook is just the best resource for anyone who writes recipes. How many cups are in a pound of cranberries, how do you adapt US recipes to metric, what's the actual definition of sauté? It's all there and more. The other book is Dianne Jacob's Will Write for Food, the current version has quite a lot on blogging and is good for all food writers or wanna be food writers. It is not a book that covers photography or how to find advertisers. It is a book on food writing and on that topic alone it's very comprehensive. Whether you want to become a better writer, find an agent, get a book deal or write for magazines, her advice is solid.


Disclaimer: There are affiliate links in this post and I may receive commissions for purchases. I also received some, though not all of the books discussed in this post as review copies. 

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Melt In Your Mouth, Grilled Teriyaki Wagyu Beef Sliders


This story will break your heart.  Shatter it.  Into millions of pieces.  I'm warning you.  I should probably just start penning a book called "Jenn's Super Sad Story."  Seth has been working nights and weekends (in addition to regular daytime hours). For months.  Then one glorious sunny Saturday, he decided to take a break and not go in for the day, just spend the day at home.  Even though I was feeling sluggish from not sleeping well and had a weird feeling in my throat, I was going to make the most of the day.  So we decided to do something low-key but fun - like grill!  We figured out what to grill, went out for lunch and afterwards obtained the necessary ingredients for our dinner.  And once all that happened, I realized I was sick.  Sore throat, headache, all that fun stuff.  So I helped make these sliders, but totally couldn't enjoy them the way they were meant to be enjoyed. Instead I savored some ice cream.  Since that never fails an ailing throat.  So that is the super sad story about how I was sick on the one day Seth was home and couldn't enjoy these sliders and "had" to eat ice cream instead.  I warned you that it would tug on your heartstrings in a profound way.  That said, Seth gave me some of this meat, fresh off the grill, and I can say it was absolutely melt-in-your-mouth amazing.  He insists they are the best sliders he's ever had, and still fresh in his mind a week later.  He even liked the pineapple on them!  And he hates pineapple!

Ingredients
2/3 cup mirin
1 cup soy sauce
4 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
¼ cup brown sugar
7 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno pepper
1 inch strip of orange peel

3/4 pound thinly sliced waygu beef
butter lettuce
Japanese cucumber, sliced
radish sprouts
Maui sweet onion, halved then sliced thinly
fresh pineapple slices, cored
scallions, chopped
jalapeno slices
Sriracha
mini kaiser rolls

Instructions
To make the teriyaki sauce:  Place the mirin in a medium pot and boil over high heat.  Reduce to medium low and add the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, brown sugar, garlic, ginger, jalapeno, and orange peel.  Simmer for 20 minutes.  Refrigerate to cool.

Once the teriyaki sauce has cooled, marinate the beef.  Place the beef in a resealable bag and cover with the sauce.  Let it marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator.

Preheat grill to high (roughly 400°).  Lay down grill-proof griddle and allow 3-4 minutes to preheat.  Working in batches, as necessary, place marinated beef on griddle and flatten out.  After 30 seconds to a minute, flip the meat and let cook for another 30 seconds to a minute before removing.  Both sides should be browned and only slightly charred.

Brush onion slices, pineapple slices, and cut sides of rolls with canola oil.  Place canola oil in a small bowl.  Using a paper towel or cloth, dip in canola oil and rub over hot grill grates to prevent sticking.  Grill the onions and pineapple on high heat until they have a light char on either side.  Place the rolls, cut side down, on the grates, and remove when lightly toasted.

To assemble the sliders:  Place a lettuce leaf on bottom slice of the bun.  Then layer cucumber slices, grilled pineapple, meat, grilled onions, jalapeno slices, scallions, radish sprouts, and top with a drizzle of Sriracha.

Friday, September 28, 2012

Beef Trends


As I mentioned in my last post, I'm just back from West Virginia where I attended the Certified Angus Beef conference. It was a great opportunity to meet with chefs, talk to butchers and learn more about beef--the trends, the choices and what's on the horizon. When it comes to beef, just like chocolate or wine or coffee, the more I learn, the more I realize there is to learn. 

First a few common misconceptions, when it comes to beef:

Only some beef is grass fed. Actually all beef is grass fed. It's just a question of how it's "finished" Certified Angus Beef is finished on a feed lot and eats grain to bulk up in size and improve marbling of the meat. If you want to buy grass fed, pay attention to how it's finished. Some beef being sold as grass fed is not the same as "grass finished." 

Grass fed beef is healthier. I used to think so, but it turns out the evidence is mixed. While grass fed beef does have higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids, it's not a great source of them. And as an article in the New York Times concluded, " it’s not clear whether the nutritional differences in the two types of meat (grass fed versus conventional) have any meaningful impact on human health." Meanwhile other research challenges the benefits of grass fed over grain finished. I think the jury is out on this one.

Fresh beef is better than frozen. Not really. Freezing actually improves the tenderness of beef, since ice crystals penetrate muscle and research shows there is no real moisture loss difference between fresh and frozen meat. Beef, like chicken and pork are expected to go up in price in the coming year and since meat prices vary throughout the year, take advantage of the cost savings and consider buying frozen beef. You won't be sacrificing quality. 

And the trends….


Bone in steaks! I saw this when I dined at Sidecut at the Four Seasons Whistler where a 52 ounce porterhouse, a 36 ounce rib eye and a 36 ounce strip steak are all served bone in and carved table side. This is a fun way to dine! I haven't done a side by side taste test of steak cooked on the bone versus off the bone, but generally speaking, meat on the bone tastes better. 


Signature grinds are a trend that is due to the popularity of gourmet burgers. It's not just the coarseness of the grind, but the very mix or meats such as short rib, prime rib, brisket or strip steak. What makes some burgers taste better than others? One secret is oleic acid. Oleic acid is the primary mono- unsaturated fatty acid in beef and accounts for about 33% of the fatty acid in beef (it's also found in olive oil) research shows that monounsaturated oleic acid does not raise cholesterol. It's this fat that is partly responsible for making meat taste so good and is found in higher percentages in very marbled beef. There is some very interesting research on this topic. Other ways burgers become "gourmet" include seasonings, fillings and toppings. My favorite to date has to be the marrow burger which is off the menu at Luella. But burgers with bacon, cheese and caramelized onions (and ground bacon in the grind), like the one at Marlowe are pretty spectacular too. 


Smaller portions. Hallelujah!  When I go to a steak house I typically order the smallest steak, or hope someone will share a large one with me (bone in perhaps?). Frankly I get tired of eating beef after about three to four bites. And I really get tired of having filet mignon be my only option for something more petite. As demand grows for smaller steaks, different cuts are showing up such as the culotte or top sirloin cap, filet of rib, cap of rib, sirloin end, chuck eye and they are very flavorful unlike the less flavorful yet tender filet mignon. For me good quality beef is a treat and a little goes a long way.

New cuts. The way beef is butchered or fabricated, is constantly evolving. Some cuts you may not have seen yet include the braison and merlot, also known as "heel" of the beef round. Both will be less expensive cuts, the braison is best for braising and the merlot can be grilled or cooked whole. 

It strikes me that there is something for everyone whether you want a big hunk of meat on the bone a gourmet burger or just a smaller portion. Which trends are you most excited about?

Disclosure: I learned about the trends at the Certified Angus Beef conference where I was a guest and my travel expenses were covered. I was not paid to write this or any other post. Special thanks to Kyle Miller and Michael Ollier for their terrific educational session and meat cutting demonstration.