My Favorite Neighborhood Shops for Speciality Foods

The Candy Store is a cute as a button (make that button candy) little shop with sweet staff including the ebullient proprietor, Diane and her husband turned candymaker Brian. If you're a brittle fan do try Brian's coconut curry cashew brittle. I could tell you about my favorite candies in this store like the marshmallow ropes, peanut butter malt balls, or the realistic French "river stones" each filled with a surprise of apricot paste, marzipan, almonds and a thin layer of chocolate, but really, what fun would that be?

Head over to the store to discover something that makes you happy--something from abroad like a Cadbury Flake bar, or from your childhood like Zotz or Pop Rocks. Try a sample of matcha caramels or chocolate covered pistachios. Some items available online. Candy is one of the last affordable luxuries and it makes people smile! If that isn't reason enough to indulge, I don't know what is.

Cheese Plus is hands down, the best specialty food store near my home. The prices can be a bit on the high side, but owner Ray Bair carefully chooses every item and if you want a great bottle of jam or my friend Alison's fabulous chutney or fresh pasta, the best couscous, or outstanding salami, this is the place. It's not a big store, but there is plenty to choose from and I've never bought anything that disappointed me. You can easily put together a picnic basket, gift box or find just the right hostess gift here not to mention holiday gift. 

Right now they have those exquisite Robert Lambert fruit cakes with rare citrus, Rustichella d'Abruzzo panettone in flavors like fig and chocolate or cherry. A perfect stocking stuffer? The truffle trio with honey, salt and carpaccio at a very attractive price. The store really knows cheese well, as you might expect. In fact, right now if you sign up for their cheese of the month club you'll get a pound and a half of cheese each month and won't pay a penny for shipping. If you have questions or want to find something special in that department, this is a good place to look.

David's Tea is a Montreal based tea company with stores all over the place and a huge selection of tea. I spoke with the David Segal, the co-founder and he told me all about the teas and blends he creates and carries--black, green, herbal and even non-tea varieties such as his fruit and vegetable based infusions. I think its fair to say it's his passion for tea and sharing the pleasure of tea that has led to his success. Visiting the store I've always been warmly greeted and offered a sample or two plus the opportunity to smell any of the teas I like.

David's Tea strives to make tea accessible for the newbie with creative and exciting flavors like Vanilla Orchid, Coco Chai Rooibos and Ice Cream Cake, a black tea flavored with white chocolate, vanilla, carob, sprinkles and little bits of freeze-dried ice cream, and yet satisfies the tea connoisseur with a great selection of oolong and puerh teas and more. They also carry a nice selection of exclusively designed unique tea accessories like tea cups and infusers and have lots available online. The tea collections are seasonal so of course, there's a Winter season collection with flavors like Cookie Dough, Banana Dream Pie. Chocolate Chili Chai and Alpine Punch. 

Buyer's Best Friend Mercato is a tiny retail store in North Beach. I've been told the Haight location is much bigger but this is the one that's closest to me. I like being able to find local treats like Clarines Florentines, Oren's Kitchen enticing nut mixes (like wild rosemary almonds or Indian Ajwain cashews) and Dang Foods utterly addictive toasted coconut chips. North Beach is looking up these days with more and more great restaurants and shops. Don't miss this one if you're in the area.

Bonus online store
I have been lucky enough to try a sampling of some of the items available from New York Mouth. While the name might suggest only items from or for New Yorkers, they actually have good stuff from all over the country. And by good stuff I mean artisanal and hand made edibles. Some of my favorites have been  Kings County Jerky Co. sweet and garlic Korean beef jerky, Spoonables thick and rich caramel sauce with sesame seeds, zingy Rick's Picks handy corn relish, The Uncommon Pickle's pickled cherries and award winning Sour Puss Pickles pickled ramps. While this is only an online store, shopping, picking goodies or gift collections is as much fun as receiving the treats creatively wrapped up in corrugated cardboard, orange tape and a reusable canvas bag. 

The Candy Store
1507 Vallejo St @ Polk
San Francisco

Cheese Plus
2001 Polk St @ Pacific
San Francisco

David's Tea
2123 Polk St @ Broadway
San Francisco

Buyer's Best Friend Mercato
450 Columbus Ave @ Vallejo
San Francisco

New York Mouth (online only)

Disclaimer: I have received some review samples from David's Tea and New York Mouth. 

Prosciutto and Papaya Skewers with Basil and Raspberry

I find it fascinating that a miniature stick of wood can make something instantly party-fancy.  Yes, party-fancy is a term.  Or it will be.  I'm sure of it.  2013 is a blank canvas at the moment.  I can color it however i want!

If you just threw some basil, prosciutto, papaya, and raspberries in a bowl, it would basically be a salad. And my heart would break just a tiny bit.  Salad, in theory, tends to make me sad.  Though in practice I do actually enjoy them...

But stick the same ingredients on  toothpick - and yes, I can get excited about that. The miniature stick of wood turns the salad into such cute and festive party appetizers, I become smitten instantly.  The toothpick - Oh, it's magic!

Ingredients
basil leaf
prosciutto, torn into chunks
papaya - cut into chunks
raspberry
toothpicks

Instructions
Place one of each on a toothpick.  I liked doing them in the following order - basil, prosciutto, papaya then raspberry.  Serve and eat!

Kitchen Gift Guide 2012

I've already written about many of my favorite kitchen goodies from silicone spatulas to Microplane graters and the Vita-Mix blender. Here are some more things I appreciate most in the kitchen. They have each withstood the test of time, especially the cookware. Buy them for yourself or someone you love. 

I have every brand of cookware possible--Calphalon, All-Clad, Le Creuset--you name it. But the pots I use the most are from the Anolon Chef Clad line. They are handsome brushed aluminum with stainless steel and can be used on all cooktops and even under the broiler. In my experience they really hold up better than the other top brands and are cheaper. What more could you ask for? Right now the best deals (good discount and free shipping) are on the Anolon site. There is also a lifetime warranty. 

As much as I'd like to, I can't quite give up on non-stick pans. With every non-stick pan I've always found there are some compromises but the Zwilling Spirit line of non-stick pans give me everything I want. They are easy to clean, with a great non-stick Thermalon ceramic surface that has not chipped after almost 6 months of use. The pans are PTFE and PFOA free, heat resistant to 500 degrees! and really substantial with good weight and even heating, so no hot spots or buckling. The pans are pricier than some non-stick, but totally worth it. A must for crepes and eggs. 

I wouldn't have thought that I would get that much use out of this set of Trudeau colanders but I probably use them daily. They are just perfect for washing vegetables and fruit and draining pasta, I especially like the small one for berries. 

I have lots of ramekins and prep dishes, but I use these Trudeau silicone pinch bowls the most. They are very stable, grooved so they don't slip in your hands, yet bend for easy pouring. They wash up easily and I must say they are much prettier in real life than they are in this photo.

You are probably thinking I have lost my mind, but my Brother label maker now is permanently in the kitchen. I label almost everything that goes into the refrigerator and freezer. The labels peel off only when I want them to and there are no longer mystery containers lurking. My model is no longer available but any Brother model should be fine. 

More kitchen gifts and goodies 

Disclaimer: I received the Trudeau and Zwilling products as review samples. This post contains some affiliate links.

The Bus Cake, with Eggnog and Chocolate Chip Batter

Yep, it is indeed a bus-shaped cake.  You totally know that your life isn't complete until you've experienced the bus cake.  When most of us are out and about, buses are just another mode of transportation peppering the landscape. But to a certain 34 inch tall toddler, this mode of transportation is the most amazing thing ever.  Ever.  One never knew how much joy was to be had by a bus sighting until now.  His enthusiasm for this marvel of human innovation is so infectious, both Seth and I even find ourselves becoming genuinely excited when we spot a passing bus.  And a corresponding twinge of sadness when said bus moves out of sight.  Countless minutes have been spent doing Google image searches of buses, taking time to admire each and every bus on the page.  He is a delightful bus companion, radiating toddler glee while riding in this most favored vehicle, and every few minutes exclaiming "bus," as though I would have forgotten that we were on a bus.  Since it was his birthday last week, we decided to tackle a bus-shaped cake.  I made the icing and cake, and Seth assembled it into its bus form.  We originally wanted a double-decker London style bus, but we belatedly realized that much more cake would be needed.  Oh well... he recognized it immediately, exclaiming, "BUS!" and dove right in, so mission accomplished.  With the eggnog and chocolate chip batter and buttercream frosting, it was pretty tasty as well.

adapted from
cooking light pound cake

Ingredients
Cake:
3 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs
1 cup buttermilk
1/3 cup egg nog
2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Icings:
1/2 pound unsalted butter
3 cups confectioners sugar, whisked
1 tablespoon heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
red food coloring

1/2 pound unsalted butter
3 cups confectioners sugar
1 tablespoon heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
black food coloring

Decorations:
4 mini chocolate frosted donuts
2 yellow chicklets for the front lights
2 red chicklets for the tailights

Instructions
For the icings:  Beat butter in electric mixer.  Add in sugar.  Mix in cream, extracts, salt, and red food coloring.  Set aside, and repeat process for the black icing.

For the cake:  Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.  In another bowl, stir eggnog and buttermilk together.  In mixer, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy.  Add in eggs one by one, being sure to mix well after each one.  Mix in vanilla extract.  Turn mixer to lowest setting, and alternate between adding flour and the buttermilk/eggnog mixture into the mixing bowl.  Once the flour and buttermilk mixtures have been incorporated, place batter in two greased 9x5 loaf pans and bake at 350 for about 50 minutes, or until cake tester comes out clean.  Cool in pans for 10 minutes then remove to cool on wire rack.

For the assembly:  Once the cakes have cooled, cut into rectangles by slicing off any ends and curved parts, you want nice rectangles to work with.  Spread red icing on one and stack the other on top.  Place donuts where they will eventually fit as wheels, and tracing around them, cut out chunks of the cake to make wheel wells.  We didn't think of this until after making the cake, which is why the wheels stick way out on the sides.  Spread red icing all over.  Spread the grey-black for windows.  Pipe grey-black around the windows using a a pastry bag or ziplock bag with a corner cut off.  Paint the donuts with the grey-black frosting, and use toothpicks to keep the wheels in place.  Add the yellow Chicklets to the front of the bus and the red ones to the back.

Holiday Gift Fairs 2012

If you are interested in San Francisco Bay Area made treats and treasures, these three gift fairs should be on your radar for this weekend, December 7 - 9, 2012. 

La Cocina Gift Bazaar
This year the La Cocina Gift Bazaar is taking place downtown! It will be at the Crocker Galleria at 50 Post St from Friday, December 7th from 1 pm - 7 pm. There will be live music and plenty of delicious things to eat and give as gifts. Some of my favorites include Kika's Treats, Global Grub, Maite Catering, Love & Hummus and Azalina's. This is a great event, put on by San Francisco's first non-profit incubator kitchen.  I've gone every year. Don't miss it! 

Speakeasy Holiday Indie Mart
Hosted by Indie Mart this Saturday, December 8th, from 12 pm - 6 pm is the Speakeasy Holiday Indie Mart at Speakeasy Ales & Lagers, 1195 Evans Ave, Bayview. Tour the brewery, purchase packaged foods and sweets or find something to eat at one of the food trucks. A shuttle will be available for $3 to get you there, look for details coming soon. Sorry I don't have a listing of vendors, but I'm sure this will be a worthwhile event.


SFMade Holiday Gift Fair
I'm a big fan of the Fort Mason farmer's market and this weekend there is even more reason to go, the SFMade Holiday Gift Fair will be taking place from 10 am - 6 pm at the Herbst Pavilion. Keep an eye out for local favorites including Bi-Rite, Heath Ceramics, The Chai Cart, Poco Dolce, also NeoCocoa and Clairesquares (both of whom will also be at the La Cocina event on Friday). 

Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide 2012

 Here are my picks for great gift worthy cookbooks! From coffee table books, to DIY books and more... 

Big and beautiful coffee table books

Some cookbooks are really coffee table books. They are large, filled with glossy photos and tell intriguing stories--they are the anti-ebook. The recipes and the restaurant recommendations are kind of secondary. These two books will satisfy the armchair traveler who loves to eat.

Lonely Planet's Food Lover's Guide to the World: Experience the Great Global Cuisines is over 300 pages of stories, photographs, recipes, and recommendations for where to find some of the most iconic dishes in the world--everything from Korean Bibimbap to Argentinian Empanadas and French Tart Tatin. Along the way you'll find food festivals and drinks, rules of etiquette, cooking schools, ingredients and markets. This is a book probably written using clips from guide books and then some. It definitely is the right book for someone who travels a lot or plans to. There is plenty of advice and direction for where to go, what to eat and even how to eat it. The recipes are definitely secondary. Some of them are not terribly well written but they do add flavor to the book.

Saveur The Way We Cook: Portraits from Around the World is a glossy book of full page photographs, there are some stories too, but mostly it's photos. At the back of the book are 50 recipes including Bistro French Fries, Layered Herring Salad and Dry Cured Olives with Rosemary and Orange. It's a book to get lost in, not so much for planning trips like the Lonely Planet book. It's as if Gourmet and National Geographic somehow came together in one. It's a book that truly appreciates the food ways of foreign places--be they in Tennessee or Tehran.This book is for anyone who enjoys photography as much as travel and exploration. 

Make it

For DIY types, a how to book and a jar of something delicious is probably the best gift of all. I've picked three that I think really stand out.

Mother in Law's Kimchi is the best kimchi I have ever eaten. Really. So I couldn't be happier to see The Kimchi Cookbook, filled with recipes for making spicy succulent kimchi and using it, from Lauryn Chun. The photos make kimchi sexy! I've bookmarked Quick Cucumber and Chive Kimchi and French Breakfast Radish Kimchi. There are recipes for kimchi and recipes using kimchi, like Kimchi Cornmeal Pancakes.

The ingredient section will help get you up to speed on what's necessary to create authentic Korean flavors. But the uses of kimchi are not all traditional. Pair this book with a jar of kimchi (perhaps even homemade!) and give it to your favorite chile head. 

Jams are hot stuff. I am going to share some of my favorites in another post for now let me say, making jam rivals eating it. It's an outlet for creativity and allows us to preserve the best of every season. I've reviewed jam cookbooks in the past, but I particularly like Jam On (from Laena McCarthy of Anarchy in a Jar)because it enables you to customize and come up with your own flavors, there's also pickled fruit, fruit butter and shrub recipes and some nice suggestions for ways to use jams and marmalades you might not have considered like in a roast chicken recipe, in cocktails and even risotto. I tried Anarchy in a Jar jams and was mightily impressed. My favorite was the Grapefruit and Smoked Salt Marmalade, but any jar plus this book would make a truly fine gift for the DIY maven in your midst. 

For the hardcore DIY types, kimchi and jam may be child's play. But I bet making salami isn't. Michael Ruhlman's Salumi will walk you through the steps and techniques to making Italian style salami and many variations. Cotechino, pancetta, lonza, coppa, even culatello which is not imported from Italy to the US, t's all here.

There are also recipes for using your homemade product like Coppa, Orange & Onion Salad and Spuma di Mortadella.

For someone who has already taken on charcuterie, this is what comes next.

And now for something completely different

Perhaps it's because I went to Israel this year, but Jerusalem is the cookbook I keep gravitating towards. The sensibility is just different. And yet very appealing.

Written by a Jew and an Arab both from Jerusalem, it's hard to put your finger on because the dishes featured have Middle Eastern, Eastern European and Sephardic roots. But it has a freshness and vibrancy that speaks to the place that inspired it. So some of these recipes may be familiar, but many are combinations that will excite you! Roast Chicken with Clementines & Arak, Butternut Squash & Tahini Spread, Lamb Stuffed Quince with Pomegranate & Cilantro and Swiss Chard Fritters are just a few of the intriguing recipes in the book.

Wild and wonderful 

This is a trend I predicted for 2012. And it continues to take off with two fantastic books that help you find you to find, cook and enjoy foraged wild ingredients. 

The first recommendation is for Foraged Flavor. This book really makes it easy to explore and identify edibles in your backyard and beyond. The photos are great. The recipes are eclectic with Italian, French and Asian playing starring roles. They are mostly very easy and very appealing.

Recipes include Daylillies stuffed with Lobster, Avocado and Sushi Rice, Purslane Eggplant Caponata and Dandelion Flower Jelly.

A Feast of Weeds is a bit more academic, not surprising since it was written by an Italian professor. The book explores the literary side of the plants that you can find and cook. The recipes are solidly Italian and anything but run-of-the-mill! Consider Pomegranate Risotto, Polenta with Nettles and Spaghetti with Wild Arugula. Talk about cucina povera. This is the real deal.

While written by a professor the book is very approachable and easy to use and appreciate.

The book features lovely drawings but no photos. The essays that go with each ingredient are less field guide and more Humanities or Classics major. You can read an excerpt.


So pretty! 

For someone who loves to entertain, nothing could be a more welcome gift than this gorgeous gold trimmed little volume--Ladurée: Entertaining: Recipes, Ideas & Inspiration which comes packed in tissue in it's own box.

While not terribly practical for weeknight dinners, it will be a great source of inspiration with stylish tips and modern recipes like  Lobster Rose Petal Carpaccio and Sea  Bass Tartar with  Grapefruit and finally classics like Orange-Passion Fruit Macarons, Tableware, glassware, and yes, etiquette are all addressed. For the girliest girl (or boy) on your list or that relative that has everything. 

For other books I've recommended this year:
Mexican Cookbook Roundup

The Epicurious Cookbook & MyRecipes America's Favorite Recipes

Food Blogging Resources

Cookbooks for Right Now

DIY Canning & Preserving

Disclosure: This post contains Amazon affiliate links

Latkes with Clarified Butter, Cotija Cheese and Truffled Ketchup

We have almost reached that time of year.  The one where I put notations on the calendar to highlight the days of Hanukkah, and put a star on the day or days on which we intend to make latkes.  Then, all too often, end up hurtling though the entire holiday, forgetting to look at the calendar, and failing to celebrate even just one of the nights. Possibly that time of the year we end up ordering pizza on the night we were supposed to do the latkes.  Not this year.  We like the idea of celebrating Hanukkah, even if we completely fail at celebrating any of the other Jewish holidays.  I think doing one holiday makes us feel like we are keeping up tradition just a teeny tiny bit, even if it's not technically a major holiday.  However, we're not exactly traditionalists, so we find latkes a fun opportunity to try new flavor combinations we may never have thought of.  Seth got the idea for these after eating french fries with cotija cheese and clarified butter from a gourmet food truck.  They were so amazing, he thought we should put those flavors into latkes and serve them with truffled ketchup.  I'm pretty sure no phone calls will be made to a local pizza place this Hanukkah.  

Ingredients
1 pound unsalted butter
2 pounds russet potatoes
1 medium onion
1 small bunch scallions, chopped
1 egg, beaten
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
cotija cheese, crumbled
scallions, chopped
fleur de sel
ketchup (preferably Heinz), for serving
white truffle oil, for serving

Instructions
To clarify the butter, chop the sticks up and place in a medium pot over low heat.  Melt the butter.  After a few minutes, you will start to see foam covering the top.  Once that stops bubbling up, take off heat and use a spoon to skim off the top layer of foam.  Set a piece of cheesecloth over a mesh strainer and place over a heat-proof container.  Pour the butter through the cheesecloth and strainer into the container.  

Peel the potatoes, keeping the peeled potatoes in cold water.  Once they're all done, grate the potatoes and the onion into a medium bowl.  Once all grated, begin squeezing the water out of the shredded potatoes and onion and transferring them to a new bowl.  Left behind should be some water and, underneath, some separated potato starch.  Take out the starch and mix it back in with the grated potatoes and onion.  Add in the chopped scallions, beaten egg, and generous pinches of salt and pepper.  Mix everything together.  Form thin patties with the mixture (the thinner, the crispier), and cook in a skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat in the clarified butter. Once one side has browned (about 3 minutes) flip and cook the other side.  As they finish, remove and place on paper towel.  Just before serving, sprinkle each latke with a liberal amount of cotija cheese and scallions.  Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel.  In a small bowl, mix just a bit of white truffle oil with the ketchup (about a 1/4 teaspoon oil per 2-3 tablespoons of ketchup).  Serve the truffled ketchup with the latkes.