Hourglass Blueline Estate Merlot: Wine on Friday

Merlot is back! Actually, it never went away, it just fell out of favor with a lot of wine drinkers. Recently I visited Hourglass Wines in Napa and talked to owner Jeff Smith about Merlot, a wine many people think is insipid. Was it the dreaded Sideways (the movie in which the lead abhors Merlot) affect? Not according to Smith, "Sideways wasn't the problem, it was the punctuation point, at the end of the problem." And it's true, at the time of Sideways, there was a lot of lousy Merlot. 

Lately there are a lot of Merlot producers, even some very good ones, trying to market Merlot by saying things like "Merlot for Cab lovers" but Merlot should be appreciated on its own merits. If you haven't had a really great Merlot in a long time, or ever, here's what Smith says it should taste like--spicy, aromatic, with density, rich and vibrant. The holy grail? According to Smith it's richness with energy and structure. Although often blended with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is darker, more tannic. Merlot is an easier drinking wine with lots of black and red fruit. Here's an easy way to think about Merlot. Think Marilyn Monroe--voluptuous, fleshy and soft, sometimes elegant.  

Hourglass acquired the lovely Blueline property in 2006, it's located in the Northeastern part of Napa Valley, two miles south of Calistoga and has  a mix of alluvial gravel, sand, and loam. On the property Hourglass grows not just Merlot but Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The 2011 Hourglass Blueline Estate Merlot has spicy and lots of fruit but also some chocolate and vanilla notes. It's silky and lush and complex in a good way. It's a pricey wine at $75 but cheaper than a "cult Cab." 

One of the other things I love about Merlot, is how easy it is to pair with food, often much easier than Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, there is a range of Merlot from lighter styles that pair with pizza, pasta and charcuterie, to riper styles that stand up to spicier dishes too.  It's great to see a winery like Hourglass committed to making a really great Merlot. I hope other winemakers are inspired to do the same.

Disclaimer: I was a guest at Hourglass for a private event and got a chance to try the wine and meet the winemaker and owner. 

Mango Stuffed with Lime and Strawberry Cream, Topped with 5-Spiced Granola and Strawberry Hibiscus Tea Drizzle

We all have different sides, different facets of our personalities.  We have the potential to be any of of these at a given moment.

For instance, our cat Rambo.  He can be a wild-eyed pig cat, ripping through every room at the speed of light.  He can be a dignified elder statesmen cat, appearing to be pondering life's big questions.  He can be a sweet cuddly pig, settling into position on my head to be my hat or on my lap to do some tail sucking (yes, he sucks his tail).

JiJi has the potential to be a hen, looking as though an egg will be laid any second.  She can be a needy baby, demanding cuddles, as though her life truly depended on it.  She can be a fun little kitten mouse, batting and pawing at her toys.  She can also get her scary Jiji on - fur bushing out and weird sounds emanating from deep within - at the sight of another cat outside.

I, too, have a multiplicity of selves.  I can be the mean mom, sending Max into time-out for throwing markers. Or the fun one, taking him out for malted chocolate milkshakes.  I can be a paragon of routine and regularity and then toss that all aside on a whim, allowing the day or days to take me where it wants. I can blast the music and dance ridiculously, or I can get in a debate about politics.

This month's Creative Cooking Crew challenge is to "stuff it."  I decided to make a mango stuff-able, scooping strawberry lime cream in the middle as well as some Chinese 5-spiced granola, then drizzling a strawberry hibiscus tea mixture around it.  The round-up of all the CCC "stuff it" entries will be posted on July 29, so check back then for the link to see all of the amazing posts!  Round-up is live - click here to see all the amazing posts! 

These stuffed mangoes too have differing sides.  They could be breakfast.  Or dessert.  Or breakfast's dessert, which totally needs to be a thing because breakfast is most definitely jealous of dinner.  After all, breakfast is supposed to be the most important meal of the day - should it not also get a dessert?  Or it could be a fun snack.  It has the potential to be all these things.

Ingredients
For the 5-spice granola:
1 cup old-fashioned oats
2/3 cup roughly chopped almonds
1 tablespoon Chinese 5-spice powder
pinch salt
3 tablespoons warm coconut oil
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 tablespoon agave nectar

For the strawberry hibiscus tea drizzle:
2 tablespoons dried hibiscus leaves
1 tablespoon black tea
1 cup just boiled water

For the lime and strawberry cream:
2 pint strawberries, chopped
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon lime zest

For assembling:
2 mangoes, halved, with about 1-2 tablespoons of the flesh removed (just eat it! or save it for a smoothie.  but I just ate it.)
fresh lime juice

Instructions
To make the 5-spice granola: Heat oven to 300.  In a bowl, toss the oats, almonds, 5-spice powder, and pinch.  In another bowl, mix together the coconut oil, honey, and agave.  Pour the coconut oil mixture over the oats and toss to coat.  Spread on baking sheet.  Bake for 20 minutes, until golden brown, turn oven to 250 and continue baking for about another 15 minutes, until dry.

To make the strawberry hibiscus tea drizzle: Combine hibiscus and black tea.  Pour water over the hibiscus and tea leaves.  Steep for 4 minutes.  Strain.  Cool.  Once cool, use an immersion blender to combine the tea with 6 medium-sized strawberries.

To make the lime and strawberry cream:  Combine the strawberries, 1/4 cup sugar, and lime juice.  Set aside for 30 minutes.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the cream with the sugar, vanilla, and lime zest.  Once the mixture holds stiff peaks, fold in the strawberry mixture.

To assemble the dish:  Drizzle the mango with some fresh lime juice. Spoon the strawberry cream into the mango.  Top with granola.  Drizzle the hibiscus tea around the mango.

Crackers & Dips and Pretzel Making at Home

There are some things you might not consider making yourself, like pretzels and crackers, but that would be a shame. Freshly made baked goods are always a treat, especially warm pretzels. Meanwhile it's the ease of making crackers and the ability to customize them that charmed me. Last year I wrote about the book Salty Snacks, which includes recipes for crackers and pretzels, but this year there are books dedicated to each. 

So the thing to know about pretzels is, you have to dip them in an alkaline solution. Pretzel Making at Home gives instructions for using food grade lye but also for using baking soda which is a lot less intimidating. The cool thing about the book is it shows you lots of different shapes you can make--sticks, rolls, bites, tiny twists and minis. That alone makes me want to make pretzels. I didn't realize how many kinds of pretzels there are until I got this book--sweet ones, savory ones, soft, hard, you name it. 

Making crackers is ridiculously fun, in part because they are so easy to make! The hardest part is waiting for the dough to rest and rolling them as flat as you can. Some of the instructions in Crackers and Dips say roll out to 1/16 of an inch. If you have any idea how thin that is, you are one up on me. I'd just say roll them as thin as humanly possible. I started with the "everything" Flatbread Crackers and have not looked back since. I haven't made any of the recipes that require yeast yet, but I probably will soon. 

True to it's name Crackers & Dips has plenty of dip recipes. You will end up wanting to skip tortilla chips and pita chips in favor of your own homemade crackers. The savory dips run the gamut from vegan and vegetarian and to meat and fish based. Some are indulgent but others are healthy. Once you get the hang of the bean dips and pates, you may find yourself customizing those too. I've found a platter of crackers and dips can easily morph from appetizer to light meal. 

Disclaimer: My thanks to Chronicle Books for providing review copies of these books, this post does contain affiliate links. 

Chocolate Pudding with Strawberries and Orange Blossom Whipped Cream

One of Max's most favorite things in the entire world is making matches. He turns life into one giant matching game. When he makes a match, the word "same," is yelled with gusto.

In one of his books, a trombone caught his eye. I would just like to point out that this occurred after I had explored other musical instruments with him - looking at and listening to french horns, and violins, and cellos, and harps - but trombone had not made the cut. How could I possibly have forgotten to show him a trombone? I clearly had fallen down on the "introducing him to the wide world of musical instrument" front of parenting.

After seeing the trombone in his book, he asked to find more trombones on the computer. Then he wanted the keyboard to make trombone sounds. And to have the iPad instrument app showing a trombone. So many opportunities for him to yell "same" with incredible enthusiasm.

Matching also occurred when I made Max waffles that he had requested, and subsequently, refused to eat them. So I did the very mature, adult thing and pretended to cry.

Max told me to go upstairs with him, where pulled out some with books in which characters were crying. He pointed at me, and then the books, and also yelled "same." Again. So incredibly excited to make a match. Not at all concerned that I was "crying."

Luckily, Max was able to yell out "same" when helping me to assemble this dessert.  A dessert with strawberries tossed with orange juice and zest, chocolate pudding, and whipped cream flavored with orange blossom water.

He pulled out books with strawberries as we were making the strawberry part.  However, he was a bit stumped when it came to the whipped cream and pudding.  Apparently those are not as common in his library.  But I totally think they should be.  Pudding and whipped cream should be in ALL the books.

Ingredients
1 tablespoon brown sugar
pinch salt
2 tablespoons cornstarch
5 ounces semisweet chocolate
1 cup half and half
1/2 cup milk (I used 2%)
1 egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
*adapted from Gourmet

1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons orange blossom water
pinch salt

2 cups chopped strawberries
drizzle of orange juice and orange zest
shortbread cookie, for serving (optional)

Instructions
For the pudding:  In a medium-sized pot, whisk the sugar, salt, cornstarch and chocolate chips.  In a bowl, whisk half and half, milk, egg yolk.  Pour over the dry ingredients in the pot.  Set over medium heat, bringing the mixture to a boil.  Stir frequently.  Let the mixture boil for a minute.  Take off heat and stir in the vanilla and butter.  Pour into dish and chill.

For the cream:  In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the cream, orange blossom water, and pinch of salt, and use the whisk attachment to whip the mixture until stiff peaks form.

For the berries:  Toss the strawberries with a drizzle of fresh orange juice and orange zest.

To assemble:  In a bowl, layer the strawberries, then the pudding, then orange blossom whipped cream. Top with a shortbread cookie.

Franciscan Chardonnay: Wine on Friday

Yeast is to used convert grape juice into wine, but also for flavor. At Franciscan Estate Winery they make two different Chardonnays, one specifically with wild yeast. I spoke with winemaker Janet Myers to find out more. But first, it's important to be familiar with some wine vocabulary:

Lees: The dead yeast at the bottom of the barrel, wine can absorb some of the yeasty flavor from being aged with the lees. 

Malolactic: The fermentation process when tart malic acid, naturally present in grape juice and skins is converted to softer lactic acid. In Chardonnay a by product of malolactic fermentation produces a buttery flavor and a soft mouthfeel. 

Carneros: An American Viticultural Area which includes parts of Southern Napa and Sonoma. It is relatively cool because it is closer to San Francisco Bay breezes. 

Janet, are you a fan of Chardonnay? 

I used to be tired of it; when I got here 10 years ago Chardonnay was too oaky and buttery, many were a caricature of themselves. I want oak and malolactic to complement. The barrel frames the fruit. Being here, I've made some slight changes, our Chardonnay used to be more oaky, and I've taken it to be a little softer--less toast, there's a gentler voice of the barrel. I've done that with both of the Chardonnay. We like the fruit expression here and it's where the consumer is going. 

Tell me about Franciscan Chardonnay--the Napa Valley Chardonnay and Reserve "Cuvée Sauvage" Chardonnay 

The reserve ($40) has much smaller production, versus the Napa Valley ($18) and it has has much less new oak, it is made to be fruit forward. Stylistically they are different, the reserve is in the barrel twice as long. It has a lot of Carneros fruit, it's vibrant with minerality, creamy but not buttery, there is oak to support but not to dominate. 

When did Franciscan start using wild yeast in the Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay?

The winery started in 1987, and the winemaker at the time was interested in Burgundy and how wild yeast was used. He was the first to use wild yeast in Napa. Even our Napa Valley Chardonnay is half wild yeast fermented. Using wild yeast takes more work and it takes longer; it takes longer for it to finish. There's less yeast and it's less reliable. 

Why do you make some wine with commercial yeast and some with wild yeast?

We like the results with the commercial yeast, but we get a little more complexity with the wild yeast. The difference is not night and day but if you taste blind you will notice it. The reserve has the biggest richest fruit lots, but layered on complexity. Malolactic fermentation takes more time on the lees -- 15 months versus 7 months.

When you let the native yeast do the fermentation, the yeast that's on the bloom, there might be a dozen type of yeasts. Plus some that are native to the winery. Each gives a different flavor. They each have a  niche for alcohol tolerance so it's like a relay in that one starts, then as the alcohol rises that species might rest and another kicks in. It's luck of the draw with the yeasts in the environment and on the grapes. 

Why do you source fruit from Carneros? 

It's in the cooler part of Napa which is conducive towards natural acidity and balance. It's cooler, crisp and vibrant. Our Napa Valley Chardonnay is over half Carneros fruit, in Napa and South. I don't buy it from up valley, it's not stylistically what I want. I don't want a low acid Chardonnay.

What do you think of Chardonnay from Napa today?
I think Chardonnay is in a really good place right now, the pendulum hasn't swung too far. There's good balance, and it's very well crafted. But it's ultimately a matter of taste, so find a producer that you like.

I couldn't agree more! Thanks Janet! 

Franciscan Estate Winery is open to visitors from 10 am - 5 pm daily, go and you can try both Chardonnays. No appointments necessary. Call ahead if you wish to take part in one of their "Taste Explorations" including a wine blending session or a sensory evaluation class.

Franciscan Estate Winery
Highway 29 @ Galleron Rd
St. Helena CA
707.967.3993

Disclaimer: Franciscan sent me a sample of their Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay 

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A Rice Bowl with Spicy Tahini Chicken, Stir-fried Mushroom and Asparagus, and Marinated Carrots

It isn't clear how it began.  But I'm totally calling it genetic, as my sister is seriously awesome at it as well. For as long as I can remember, my sister and I have been quite skilled at eye-rolling.  That ever-so-mature response when something or someone annoys you.  

This response has many triggers, one of which is recipes touting super special "secret" ingredients.  Like the avocado in that brownie.  Or the kale in that smoothie.

And now I'm rolling my eyes at myself.  Because I am here to explain the secret ingredient of rice bowls. And noodle bowls, for that matter.

The secret is the bowl.  It doesn't matter what bowl it is. It just has to be a bowl. 

Lets all be honest.  Rice and noodle bowls are pretty trendy. But I would argue, that they are trendy for good reason. If the content of these bowls were served on plates, and called "here is a plate of noodles with stuff" or "here is a plate of rice with stuff," I'm pretty sure none of us would get excited about it. We would all be like, "Oh, isn't this basically like going to a buffet and placing heaping piles of random stuff all on one plate."

And we would all be basically correct.

I am still working on gathering evidence for my theory, but I'm pretty sure that bowls have invisible tiny fans scattering delicious invisible taste enhancing seasonings over the contents of the bowl. It will take me some time to figure out how to test this. Science is not my strong suit.

But somehow piling seemingly random concoctions in a bowl makes total sense.  Here, zingy carrots, with stir-fried asparagus and mushrooms, and the earthiness from the tahini chicken, sprinkled with some parsley and scallions and a drizzle of sesame oil, all work together.  I may be rolling my eyes at myself, but at least I am enjoying a yummy dinner while doing so.

Ingredients
For the carrots:
1 cup julienned carrots
2 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons walnut oil
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

For the stir fry:
1 bunch asparagus, woody ends removed, chopped
1 cup chopped shiitake mushrooms
1 teaspoon minced ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
minced jalapeno, to taste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1/2 teaspoon honey

For the tahini chicken:
1/2 pound chicken breast tenders
canola oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup tahini
1 tablespoon Greek yogurt
1 1/2 teaspoon Sambal Oelek chile paste
1/2 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice

cooked rice (I made 2 rice cups in the rice cooker)
chopped scallions
chopped parsley
lime wedge
sesame oil

Instructions
To make the carrots:  Place carrots in small bowl.  Whisk the oils and vinegar together, and pour over the carrots.  I like doing this ahead of time.

To make the stir-fry:  In a small bowl, stir soy sauce, oyster sauce, and honey.  Heat canola oil in wok or saute pan on high.  Add asparagus and mushrooms.  Cook for 2 minutes, and add the ginger, garlic, and jalapeno.  Turn heat to medium-low.  Once the garlic has cooked, add the soy sauce mixture.  

To make the chicken:  Sprinkle salt and pepper liberally on both sides of the chicken.  Heat canola oil in a skillet on high.  Get each side nice and brown (about 3 minutes each side).  Turn heat to low to finish cooking (if needed).  Stir together tahini, yogurt, chile paste, honey, soy sauce, and lime juice.  Chop the chicken, and toss with the tahini mixture.

To assemble the rice bowl:  Scoop some rice into a bowl.  Place a few scoops of the stir fry on top of one section of the rice.  Place some tahini chicken on another section.  Place the carrots on top.  Scatter chopped scallions and parsley on top.  Drizzle the whole thing with sesame oil.